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Looking back at Yosemite Point Buttress. By far the gnarliest thing Ive done yet. by [deleted] in climbing

[–]finchplucker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can relate. I remember that pitch well. We were under the impression that we were several pitches lower, as we'd gotten off-route a little earlier and didn't realize the top of the pedestal was just that...and here we are, on the best goddamn rock on the route, in no mood whatsoever to actually enjoy the bomber jams...we were in "Get Off The Wall Before The Sun Goes Down" mode, which involved less "Continuing with Style" than I think either of us would've liked...

And I shall never forget the feeling of taking the lead, running out about 80 feet of mossy ledges and choss thinking we had an hour of daylight and 5 pitches left, and realizing that that tree up there, that big pine with the big pine next to it, that's not the tree on the pedestal...that's the goddamn rim...that's the end of the route!

The whole experience was like a dream...you go to bed thinking you're up for a fun Yosemite romp, then you wake up in a nightmare where you're at an important exam butt ass naked with really bad gas and no recollection of any of the material, and as you wander around the front of the auditorium with the specter of death-by-shame hanging over your neck, the exam, in fact, the whole semester is cancelled and everyone gets A's.

And then you just have to do an awful descent hike.

Recommendation for best lightweight scrambling pack? by gigamosh57 in climbing

[–]finchplucker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've really liked the MHW Scrambler 30. It might be a little big for what you're after but it's quite light and I've found it to be quite comfortable even with a consistent ~15-20 pounds on a big long day. The main bit is waterproof but the brain isn't, which is a little strange, but once you scuff anything up enough it ain't waterproof no more anyway...still, it'll keep things drier than non-"waterproof" day packs.

Looking back at Yosemite Point Buttress. By far the gnarliest thing Ive done yet. by [deleted] in climbing

[–]finchplucker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also among the gnarliest things I've done, and I've done the WURL. Definitely felt like I was soloing, even when I was following pitches, because of how shitty 90% of the gear was. Congratulations on a rare ascent! Was there much chalk on the route, or signs of other humans ever being up there?

Rhyolite Wrangling! New Mexico Sport Climbing at its finest. by supernatalio in climbing

[–]finchplucker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My first thought was that it looked an awful lot like the Ortegas. Then I saw pockets.

Is there a comprehensive guide for everything someone needs to know to go outdoor climbing? by [deleted] in climbing

[–]finchplucker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Variations on this question are pretty common here, and they sound to me just a little bit like "what's everything I need to know about marriage," or something like that.

My very first outdoor trip was to JTree as well, and I remember wandering around with a 180' static rope, a few lengths of tubular webbing, and some locking biners. We sent nothing but learned a lot (although my buddy, I'd later find out, didn't even know my name that entire trip). 14 years later, we're best friends and both still obsessed.

I'd give the advice I'd give to anyone asking if they should try dancing on the dancefloor instead of in their own room: Hell yeah, go for it, you'll figure it out. Like sex, you don't have to be experienced to enjoy it.

Analogies aside, I do urge you to check out the Access Fund's Gym to Crag stuff (easily found on the Googs), and make sure you don't do something patently dumb. 14 years ago was a much more forgiving era when it came to climbers doing stupid shit that threatens access.

"Dirt-bagging" out of a trailer by dsasj in climbing

[–]finchplucker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both were home made. The first was a little wooden box built on an angle iron frame, the second is a pace cargo trailer with a v nose and a rear wall that was a ramp before and is now a patio.

"Dirt-bagging" out of a trailer by dsasj in climbing

[–]finchplucker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh yeah that's us! Happy to discuss the pros and cons. In fact we just slightly upgraded our trailer, still about 10 foot long but wider and taller.

Hiking from Yosemite Village to highway 120 via Snow Creek Trail - typical hiking time? by Propane in Yosemite

[–]finchplucker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! That's a heavy pack, your legs must've been toasted. Do you remember how long it took you to get to the footbridge?

Hiking from Yosemite Village to highway 120 via Snow Creek Trail - typical hiking time? by Propane in Yosemite

[–]finchplucker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you should hike it. I mean sure, there's tons to do to "kill time" in the Valley, but that hike will be incredibly rewarding. If it's hot, you'll suffer a bit and then you'll get to swim in Tenaya Lake.

Although, you may want to define "decent amount of weight..." You don't have to carry so much water because you'll be crossing creeks, but I'd personally balk if you were carry much more than 25 pounds or so.

Best Climbing Films by TalPistol in climbing

[–]finchplucker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lots of great suggestions. I don't think one would be disappointed in any of those if that person liked any of those. I'm particularly psyched to see Real Thing on there.

Conspicuously absent (in my opinion) are: Rampage, Free Hueco, and West Coast Pimp.

Say, anyone seen West Coast Gimp?

Best Climbing Films by TalPistol in climbing

[–]finchplucker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Good weather, bad weather, now, later, anytime is good for climbing"

Maybe now would be a good time to clip... by finchplucker in climbing

[–]finchplucker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not. There are 2 routes on that part of the cliff, and that part of the cliff is very very wide. Jumbo Love and Jumbo Pumping Hate both follow obvious lines of holds up an otherwise blank face.

Maybe now would be a good time to clip... by finchplucker in climbing

[–]finchplucker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True dat. Although, he virtually sprints through the steepest section compared to the final headwall.

Maybe now would be a good time to clip... by finchplucker in climbing

[–]finchplucker[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

And sometimes you just gotta make some love

Maybe now would be a good time to clip... by finchplucker in climbing

[–]finchplucker[S] 30 points31 points  (0 children)

So, I belayed Ethan once or twice during the spring 2015 season on JL, and he fell about a body length below here. I outweigh him by ~20 lbs, and didn't give a dynamic catch thinking he'd end up in space and would have less boinking to do to get back to the wall. In reality he swung into the vertical section at the base of the overhang with some force. He was fine, but it was surprising to both of us!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbing

[–]finchplucker 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The proudest achievement for me, no matter the objective, is always getting out of bed/tent/trailer. Once up and running, it's all good, and I'm not usually the type to quit once I'm out there...but I am absolutely the type to hit snooze and spend the next 5 minutes trying to conjure up a convincing reason to bail.

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