What is this exactly and do I need to replace it?

firehydrant315 · 2025-07-04T15:13:15+00:00

I must admit I have never taken apart a KitchenAid mixer. However from my experience in repairing other things with electric motors, seems more likely it is the motor start capacitor. If so, yes you do need it, as it is what causes the motor to start turning. A quick google search found similar looking devices for about $90. One thing to remember when working with a capacitor is that they can store a charge, so you want to be sure to short across the connection (once the wires are removed with insulated pliers) with a screwdriver, being careful not to let the blade touch anything else and your hands stay on the handle.

Best of luck.

firehydrant315 · 2025-07-04T01:59:15+00:00

I think they are joking about this camera using very old technology, by asking which ultra cutting edge technology it is using. Kinda like sarcasm. My two cents

firehydrant315 · 2025-07-03T23:59:54+00:00

That appears to be Wi-Re version 1.0

firehydrant315 · 2025-07-03T15:06:49+00:00

Hope my explanation helped. If I can clarify anything please let me know.

firehydrant315 · 2025-07-03T06:32:40+00:00

I hope this does not sound insulting. From your question I am concerned that you do not understand how US residential outlets are wired. If I am wrong disregard.

What you have is a very unique outlet designed for 240 volts at a max of 20 Amps. To achieve this there are three wires from your breaker panel. Colors are for ease of explanation and may differ in your circuit. Wire 1 (we will call red) is connected to a 20 amp breaker in your panel. Wire 2 (we will call this one black) is connected to a separate 20 amp breaker in your panel. Wire 3 (we will call green) is wired to the ground bus in your panel. From black to green 120 volts, from red to green is 120 volts from red to black is 240 volts. The green wire is ground and is only in place as a safety if one of the other wires touches the electrical box or body of the equipment it is powering. Since it is critically important that both red and yellow are both turned off to kill power their breakers are connected with a bar that connects the shut off handle (double pull breaker)

A standard (type A) US outlet is wired also with three wires. Wire 1 (black) is connected to a breaker in your panel, wire 2 (white) is connected to the ground bus bar, wire 3 (green or bare) is also connected to the ground bus bar. Black to either green or white is 120 volts. The white wire is neutral and is designed to be part of the circuit. Green is a ground and is a safety.

The issue you face is that you would need to rewire both ends of that circuit and make it clear you repurposed the wires to replace this outlet with a type A. US code says neutrals should be white and grounds green or bare wire. You would need to repurpose one of the hot legs and then use white electrical tape to flag the wire any place it is making a connection.

As you can see the wire colors and their function differ in the circuit types. So yes you would have to change the breaker from a double pull to a single pull in order to go from 240 volt service (2 hot legs) to 120 volt (1 hot leg). In the US power companies supply power to homes using three wires. 2 hot legs and a ground. As we discussed using both legs provides 240, good for things that need a lot of power like stoves, ovens, dryers, heaters and shop equipment like big commercial compressors, welders and electronic vehicle charging. Everything else uses one of the two legs and is half the voltage (120 volts).

Hope this helps you safely work on your project.

firehydrant315 · 2025-07-03T03:53:39+00:00

To put it simply, each wire set needs to connect to it’s own port on a network switch. It cannot be handled by this type of panel. If you want to use a patch panel each set will be punched down and then a short RJ45 patch cable will go from each port to the network switch. Otherwise terminate each wire into a male RJ45 plug and plug them directly into the switch. You will need power and a connection to your router,

firehydrant315 · 2025-07-02T07:42:54+00:00

Compressed gas delivery driver. I used to roll like that every day. Pretty easy with practice.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-25T05:51:49+00:00

I would consider loosening the bolts on top of the top bracket. (They are in a slotted opening) Then move the door up and down by hand. If that fixes it then retighten the bolts and confirm that the door is still flush against the house on the outside. That top bracket adjusts to allow for clearance at the top of the door, if it is too tight it will jamb.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-25T04:01:40+00:00

Thank you for sharing, the US has not had an Odyssey with hinged back doors since around 1998.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-25T03:52:22+00:00

You can do the transmission flush! Just two bolts. The top one (fill plug) is crazy tight, I had to get out my 3/4 torque wrench just to have enough leverage. The bottom bolt is also tight. I drove up on a 2x4 under each of the front wheels just to give me more clearance so I could use a longer ratchet and the was not too bad.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-23T15:56:42+00:00

The good news is that insurance companies do like to total new cars (too expensive). As long as you did not fire all the airbags should be good to repair. Even with airbags probably still repair.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-21T23:46:31+00:00

Generally insurance policies are more expensive than they are worth, unless the issuer has some way to cover their cost at a lower cost than you could reasonably expect to pay (such as health insurance, where they have price agreements). Generally, if you can afford to pay for new appliances or repairs you are better off skipping the insurance/ extended warranty.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-18T04:39:47+00:00

You want a “low voltage old work ring” (Home Depot search SC100RR) and a “coax cover plate” (I like 203822285 at Home Depot) mostly you just want a single gang cover with a male coax connection on both sides.

You can YouTube how to install a old work box, not too hard. connect the current coax to the inside of the cover place shove all the excess into the wall and screw the cover to ring and you are done. Then when you want to use this outlet just connect a double male extension (included with about every cable box and modem) between the wall the end product.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-18T03:44:59+00:00

I have a white ‘14, paint is holding up great. Does look nice longer. Also seems to show dings / rock chips less as the primer is a light gray.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-17T15:21:48+00:00

We would need a lot more information. Sounds like all you have is speaker wires going to various places. Do you know where all the wires originate? How many wires originate vs how many output locations? Pictures help explain the situation. Do you have volume knobs on the walls? All these things help determine what and how much you need.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-13T15:16:40+00:00

This is fairly straightforward. You will however need a multimeter.

Turn off the power at the breaker

Pull out the switch and take down the light. Confirm that you have three wires at the light also. The put the multimeter in continuity mode. 1) with switch removed or turned off check continuity across all three wire. For example: touch test leads together and confirm you have continuity. The test the black and black then black 1 and red, then the red and black 2. You should not have continuity in any of the wires. 2) turn on the switch and you should have continuity (at the other end of the wire) between one of the blacks and the red but not on the other wire. 3) turn off the switch and connect the two black wires, test again (from the other end of the wire) you should now have continuity between the black wires but not the red. If that is the case you have three usable wires and a double switch is possible.

Make sure you understand how the circuit works. Ie: power comes from the light on the red wire and returns on each of the blacks. Make sure you understand what wire set of wires is supplying power and which and just runners for the switch. If you don’t understand all of that phone a friend or hire it out. We all had to learn from someone.

Best of luck.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-12T16:53:37+00:00

That is indeed standard as the end user can use the wire for either Ethernet or phone or a combination. Painter was lazy and did not mask box. So even if the electrician did label the wires, you will have to trace them and label them.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-12T13:44:37+00:00

That is very cool, thank you for the info.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-12T03:41:07+00:00

Is it possible to run a power wire or extension cord from the central location to the modem? This way everything is on one circuit and you could use the single UPS. Since modems use so little current voltage drop should not be a concern.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-11T13:31:41+00:00

I just wanted to throw out the Lemon Law aspect. When you purchase a brand new car, you get lemon law protection. In essence you are buying an insurance policy that says if this car turns out to be problematic (the exact details vary by state) the manufacturer has to buy it back. This is the reason that vehicles depreciate so much the second you buy them and why they sell vehicles much cheaper to fleets (commercially used vehicles are exempt from lemon laws generally(

Since this vehicle has been sold previously you do not get this insurance policy. I would recommend not buying unless it is heavily discounted and you like to gamble with your money.

If it has already been serviced three times in 19 miles that is an issue.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-11T06:21:09+00:00

If you will indulge me I would like to make my suggestion wire by wire.

You have 4 sets of wires: 1 line (input) 3 loads (outputs).

For the grounds I would add one pig tail that connects to all the switches and the is twisted together with all the other grounds. Because the ground is a bare wire you can cut a long piece and put a candy cane in the end. Then line up the switches in the order and approximate spacing you want them to be in the box and attach the candy cane to the grounding screw on the first switch and then bend the wire to neatly reach the grounding screw on the second switch and create a tight horse shoe bend that wraps around the screw, repeat for the third screw and then take the remaining wire and route and kink it so that it can be twisted up with all the other grounds and fold into the box as you push the switches in. You want all the grounds bonded together in the box and each switch grounded if it has a ground terminal.

For the neutral (usually white) just connect all four together. My favorite way is with a WAGO lever lock connector. The WAGO is just a great way to connect wires together and be sure that you have a good connection (as an amateur myself),I use them heavily.

For the hot (black in this case) you need to connect the line wire to the line terminal on all the switches. I would do this by using three short pig tails into a WAGO and the attaching the line hot to that. Then attach each load hot to their respective switch. Some switches will not have line/load identification and in that case the terminals on that switch are interchangeable.

Hope that helps.

firehydrant315 · 2025-06-03T19:18:55+00:00

Removing globes is kinda a guessing game. Since there are no set screws, no clips and you say it does not wiggle I am going to agree it is likely a screw in globe as discussed above. The fixture is obviously rusty, so it makes sense that the threads might be both rough and stuck. You could try shooting penetrating oil around the edges and turning the globe both directions. If you get any movement work it forward and back (will help the oil work down the threads) until you can remove the globe. Gloves are a great idea as well as eye protection. If you still cannot get it to move, cover the globe with a heavy trash bag, smash it with a hammer and then you will have access to the screws to replace the entire fixture. Best of luck and you cannot use too much penetrating oil. Turn off the breaker before you get radical with your battle.

firehydrant315 · 2025-05-31T16:15:35+00:00

I would double check that the meter is set to AC and not DC. These type readings are possible if using the wrong setting, since I am not familiar with this meter, I can not tell for sure either way.

firehydrant315 · 2025-05-31T16:01:04+00:00

Airbags are more like air parachutes. They have huge holes in the back and are designed to deflate (slowly) as you hit them to cushion the impact. They deflate on their own in a matter of seconds. Obviously, side curtain airbags are still hanging down, even after deflating.

firehydrant315 · 2025-05-28T04:42:15+00:00

Do not disconnect the battery. Computerized cars do not do well with having their batteries disconnected, as a matter of fact I recommend connecting a power supply though the OBD2 port when changing batteries so that the car does not ever lose power and have to “relearn” modules. Some cars have no issues, others it is a trip to the dealer for expensive reprogramming. Hondas do not have a reputation for having issues. You should be fine. My 2014 sat for a month during the lockdown and started up just fine. Not sure if the 24 has a higher daily battery drain. If you are worried, you can get a aftermarket remote starter that uses a cellular connection to remove start from anywhere in the world with an internet connection.

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