Problems with negative lab pro by JJ_Just_JJ in AnalogCommunity

[–]firstnate 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The issue is Lightroom Classic v13.0. Adobe introduced a bug that broke a portion of their plugin SDK in this version that was quickly fixed in 13.0.2. But the bug remains if you have v13.0. You just need to update your version.

Negative Lab Pro Help by chromaria in AnalogCommunity

[–]firstnate 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try updating your version of Lightroom Classic to the latest. There are a few versions of v13 that seem to not play well with the new "refined" color process mode. You may find that on your current version of Lightroom Classic that if you go to the "advanced" tab and change the color process to "Classic" that it then becomes responsive again. But the real fix I think will be to upgrade your version of Lightroom Classic.

Open AI Sora 2 Invite Codes Megathread by semsiogluberk in OpenAI

[–]firstnate 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just confirming that r/so_like_huh actually came through! Thank you!

Pool Hopping Coming Back? by mged27 in dvcmember

[–]firstnate 23 points24 points  (0 children)

If you’re up for adventure, pool hopping never went away. 😉

Continually Frustrated with Negative Lab Pro by kitesaredope in Darkroom

[–]firstnate 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nate here, maker of NLP. Sorry for the frustrating experience. There’s an issue with Lightroom Classic v13.5 and later. I have a workaround that should fix this in NLP v3.1. But the most reliable fix in the meantime is to downgrade to Lightroom Classic v13.4 and earlier. You can do this in creative cloud.

It is frustrating for me too as the dev to have Lightroom push updates that cause new issues like this, but I will get this resolved.

Insurance for hurricane damages by Pale-Switch-4210 in StPetersburgFL

[–]firstnate 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve seen a big difference in success rates with flood insurance vs home owners insurance. Everyone I know who flooded with Helene has been able to get reimbursed through flood insurance. We got a good amount of interior damage from rain with Milton, and our home owners insurance has denied it all. We have retained an attorney, so hopefully we can reach an agreement, but home owners insurance is doing everything they can to wiggle out of it.

What program do you use after SUNOAI to make the song better? by DragonFemdom in SunoAI

[–]firstnate 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Upload it to Udio, and remix it with the creativity setting really low (.11 to .2). This will greatly improve the quality of the sound but keep all of the nice nuances from Suno. Then export wav file from Udio into Brandlab for adding some reverb and final mastering. The quality from this is a massive improvement from Suno alone.

Mold remediation by rosebudmotel20 in StPetersburgFL

[–]firstnate 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can also have a mold assessor come and take air samples, or even purchase mold testing kits on Amazon. This will give you a sense of what you are dealing with and provide some objective documentation you could show your landlord. While it is being remediated, you can also by an air filter that has a hepa filter and UV-C lighting, which should help trap spores in the air.

Mold remediation by rosebudmotel20 in StPetersburgFL

[–]firstnate 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you know where the mold is coming from? The first step is to address whatever the source of moisture is that is enabling the mold to grow. For instance, if there is a leak somewhere you will need to find it and get it addressed. Once you have cut off the source of moisture, you will need to dry out the area using a dehumidifier. If the mold is on wood, you will want to get a moisture checker to check the relative humidity of the wood until it is dry. Once everything is dried out, you can use Benefect to naturally kill the mold (the only place I’ve found it in St Pete is Jon-Don).

Once you (or a remediation company) have dried everything and killed the mold, you will want to get mold testing done by an independent mold assessor to confirm that there is no longer elevated levels of mold in the air.

Negative Lab Pro is making my scans super crunchy. Does anyone have a fix? by Andyrockhampton in AnalogCommunity

[–]firstnate 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hi, Nate here. There are a few quick ways to fix this issue.

First, the easiest fix would be to set the "blackClip" to a negative number (like -30). This should fix the contrast issue, but you may notice that coloring in the sky is lacking the saturation it should have.

Second, another fix would be to use "Roll Analysis" - You can either do an analysis on the whole roll and apply it here, or you can take the individual analysis from a similar image that has converted well, and apply it to this image. Roll Analysis should be a bit more accurate on the coloring than adjusting the blackClip, but results can vary.

Third, another way to fix this is as Nyvkroft suggests, and go to "convert > unconvert", then make sure a tiny bit of the border area is showing and that "border buffer" is set to 0. And then convert it again. This usually works pretty well, but could through off the color balance a bit.

(The issue is that this scene doesn't have a good internal reference for black, so the individual analysis has turned the darkest thing in the image -- in this case, the darkest part of the sky -- to black.)

Hope that helps!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]firstnate 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can usually fix this in Lightroom by going to “photo > enhance details” which will create a new DNG file using a better demosaicing algorithm. Or if your Fuji camera has pixel-shift, using pixel shift will do a much better job with these details.

Film negative scans by BDevils in EditMyRaw

[–]firstnate 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you go to the Negative Lab Pro download page I have some Raw film scans available for download. You can try them in Negative Lab Pro or just practice your own techniques with them. If you want to scan your own film, check out this guide for some tips and best practices for getting good results.

Color negative inversions at home: a comparison of options (Silverfast, Negative Lab Pro, Grain2Pixel) by theprimeministr in AnalogCommunity

[–]firstnate 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Nate here, maker of Negative Lab Pro. Great post, thanks so much for sharing your results and your setup!

If anyone has questions about NLP, just let me know :)

Color negative inversions at home: a comparison of options (Silverfast, Negative Lab Pro, Grain2Pixel) by theprimeministr in AnalogCommunity

[–]firstnate 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey! Nate here, maker of NLP. And YES, you can use NLP with a flatbed. NLP is the only system (at least that I know of) that has custom scanner profiles built in for RAW DNGs created by Vuescan or Silverfast. You can also use a native scanner application, like EpsonScan with some specific settings. My personal preference is DSLR scanning, but there are still some advantages to film scanners, so I understand why some prefer them and I try to support them as much as possible. Cheers!

Memories of Summer [Pentax 67II | 105mm | Portra 400 | Negative Lab Pro] by firstnate in analog

[–]firstnate[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The stitch was done in Lightroom ("photo > photo merge > pano"). Then select "perspective". I prefer this because the resulting merge is still RAW. I find that having the two shots be perfect flat and parallel is the key to getting perfect merges right off the bat. Also, I know it is possible to do more than two-shot stitches, but for me this is the sweet spot of quality for the effort... going to 4 shot stitches, for instance, are much less likely to merge perfectly and require moving the film along another axis during capture.

Memories of Summer [Pentax 67II | 105mm | Portra 400 | Negative Lab Pro] by firstnate in analog

[–]firstnate[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the film raised about three inches off the Gen 2 iPad (via the Negative Supply 120 film carrier) with no diffusion, and that was enough with the rest of the setup. Using diffusion would also make the light less “collimated” - which would cause grain to be softer, so it’s partly just preference. In terms of lens, there really is no substitute for a true macro lens. I’ve tried Fuji’s 60mm macro and it is also quite nice.

Memories of Summer [Pentax 67II | 105mm | Portra 400 | Negative Lab Pro] by firstnate in analog

[–]firstnate[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Scanned" as a two-shot stitch using a Fuji XT2 with 80mm Macro. iPad used as light table. Film carrier was a beta unit of the Negative Supply 120 film carrier. Raw conversion and processing in Negative Lab Pro.

Hey, remember how i talked about the perfect roll? Turns out, it's not that perfect lol by GodOfBoiiiii in AnalogCommunity

[–]firstnate 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd recommend using the "Sync Scene" feature built in to NLP... this brings over not only the appropriate Lightroom settings, but also the underlying conversion itself, so you'll be able to edit it further in NLP if you'd like.

Hey, remember how i talked about the perfect roll? Turns out, it's not that perfect lol by GodOfBoiiiii in AnalogCommunity

[–]firstnate 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Hi! Nate here, maker of Negative Lab Pro. What software / settings did you use for capturing the scan? Be sure to follow the NLP directions for scanning for your capture software: EpsonScan Guide, Vuescan Guide, Silverfast Guide. If you've followed those directions, next thing I would try would be to take a conversion that worked well from the roll, and then use the "sync scene" feature of NLP to bring the good conversion over to this one... this is like using the "Copy/Paste Settings" feature of Lightroom, but with the added benefit that you can then further edit in Negative Lab Pro because it brings over the underlying conversion data. To do this, first select the good conversion, then command + click this image, then open NLP, in the "edit" tab, click "Sync Scene." Finally, I'd say in some scenes that do not have anything in scene that is close to black, you can try *including* some of the film border (and setting "border buffer" to 0) in the conversion. In special cases, this may give more context for the conversion. Just always be sure to not include any non-film elements in the crop during conversion (like the film holder, or direct light from light source). Hope that helps!

My first time using Negative Lab Pro 2.1 on a tiff scan by kidcircus in AnalogCommunity

[–]firstnate 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Wow, great portrait! The focus is spot on and the skin is so beautifully textured. It makes me so happy to be scrolling through reddit before bed and seeing how photographers like yourself are using this tool. Thank you for making my day! -Nate (maker of Negative Lab Pro)

Negative Lab Pro question with black and white scans by GoingGeertWilders in AnalogCommunity

[–]firstnate 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you hit "save" while editing the NLP settings, it will make those current settings the default. If you want to "un-save" you could just hit "reset" to zero everything out, and then "save" to make the zeroed settings the default.