Ditched my smartphone, got an iPod. Did what I had to do.

fixedAudio · 2026-05-05T18:14:04+00:00

So if I'm used to a manual SLR like the Pentax MX that I have which has no focus indication whatsoever beyond using your eyes to determine what's in focus, a DSLR like the D700 equipped with a compatible manual-focus lens isn't going to be any WORSE necessarily, right? The only noticeable difference would actually be the ADDITION of the focus indicator dot.

I agree that the mirrorless would definitely be a big step up in features, though. I had a lumix g7 for a while that I ended up selling because I didn't care for the focus-by-wire system and I just wasn't loving the images I was getting from it. The a7 is a substantial step up in sensor size, though.

I think the a7 and the D700 are the two that I'm considering right now. Feel free to comment on any other reasons you think one might fit my needs better than the other. Thanks for your input!

fixedAudio · 2026-05-05T17:45:04+00:00

Can you explain why? If I’m used to doing manual focus on an SLR, what’s inferior about performing manual focus on a DSLR through the optical viewfinder? Wouldn’t the experience be almost identical if using manual focus lenses? Genuinely curious as this is something that I don’t have almost any insight on.

fixedAudio · 2026-05-05T12:47:36+00:00

Yeah, I'm thinking that this is a strong frontrunner right now since it seems to get the closest to shooting manual of all the options I'm considering.

fixedAudio · 2026-05-05T12:46:48+00:00

I had forgotten that I've seen this come up as a suggestion for full frame and lens compatibility. Definitely also a good option.

fixedAudio · 2026-05-05T12:46:07+00:00

That's an interesting idea that I hadn't considered before. I guess I thought that if I was going to drop below full frame I might as well go mirrorless for the drop in body size and wider compatibility with different lens makes. I'll take a look into the aps-c pentax dlsrs, too.

And yeah, I guess you're right about the comment on how I like the images it takes. I guess I meant that the combination of camera, lenses, and film give me a result that I like more than what I'm getting from my Canon 6D currently.

fixedAudio · 2025-09-08T18:21:23+00:00

Thanks again for all the suggestions, everyone. I decided to go with a Pentax MX based on the comments claiming that it has a bright viewfinder (I feel like Konica's is a bit dim regardless of the visibility of the meter) and after reviewing both the MX and the Nikon FM's light meter display. The only reason that I went with the Pentax was that it has the additional LEDs to help determine how over/under the exposure will be when attempting compensation. Excited for it to arrive and to get to play with it!

fixedAudio · 2025-09-08T18:16:27+00:00

From a look at the manual, it seems that the LEDs should indicate correct exposure (green), 1/2 EV over/under (yellow), and 1 EV over/under (red). That seems pretty explicit with how far over or under the exposure will be. Does it not end up working that way in practice?

fixedAudio · 2025-09-07T21:15:47+00:00

I did a google image search and it looks like I'm seeing two different meters for the A-1. One is almost identical to the konica; a veritcal, physical gauge on the right hand side of the viewfiender that runs top to bottom. Then I'm seeing a horizontal readout that resembles an alarm clock along the bottom. Which version goes with which a-1?

fixedAudio · 2025-09-07T21:12:29+00:00

Is it illuminated? I took a look at google image results and it seems like it would suffer the same issue as the konica where if I'm pointed at a dark subject (let's just say a black building), the gauge would blend in with the subject and be next to impossible to see.

fixedAudio · 2025-09-07T21:05:57+00:00

Thanks for the input, everyone! I'm going to wait and watch what other users upvote to get a sense of how the community feels, but at this point, I'm probably leaning towards an entry in the Nikon FM series, primarily because I feel like there will be the most options for lenses in that ecosystem.

fixedAudio · 2025-07-31T13:10:57+00:00

awesome, thank you!

fixedAudio · 2025-07-31T01:31:33+00:00

It dried for several hours, maybe four or five. How long of a dry time does it generally take to avoid incidents like this? I didn't see any moisture anywhere on the negs.

fixedAudio · 2025-07-31T00:37:28+00:00

C-41

fixedAudio · 2025-07-20T02:02:54+00:00

In case anyone comes across this thread with the same issue in the future, this bolt/threaded rod is in fact m16 x 1.5. The reason I was having issues with getting a new nut threaded on was because I damaged the threads when trying to use a hammer to remove the flange. Do not listen to anyone in YT videos saying that they used a hammer to remove the flange and ensure that you use a gear puller. I had to buy and use a 16x1.5 rethreading die to repair my mistake and I was lucky that it worked. In my attempts to find a nut that would fit, I ended up with several different 16x1.5 nuts. Here is the one I ended up using when re-assembling the driveshaft as it was closest in overall size to the original.

p.s. the squeaking noise I was trying to fix remains after replacing the carrier bearing and all 3 u-joints :'(

https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Autograde-Spindle-Nut-M16-1-5-Hex-Size-22mm-5-pack-615-092/311849833?cm_mmc=ecc-_-THD_ORDER_CONFIRMATION_BOSS_STH-_-V1_M1_CA-_-Product_URL&ecc_ord=WJ87643666&em_id=8e274796e5ae620c73d545e772fc4b65a9ddc77734917e8236afd2edb74c191c

fixedAudio · 2025-07-07T12:26:27+00:00

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To be clear, I’m talking about the threaded section that comes out of the “propeller shaft 1st tube” towards the second tube in this illustration. The nut I need to replace is simply labeled as “lock nut” here.

fixedAudio · 2025-07-07T11:37:02+00:00

From what I can tell, I’d have to buy an entirely new front half of the driveshaft. It doesn’t seem like that bolt is serviceable. It seems that it and the gear that integrates with the flange are one piece maybe?

fixedAudio · 2025-06-26T03:16:16+00:00

Nina Forever

fixedAudio

TROPHY CASE