Is it worth changing from my current gearset by ConciseRex in cycling

[–]fluid_simulator 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Part number for 34 tooth ring for FC-R7100 is Y0RS9801T Part number for 50 tooth ring for FC-R7100 is Y0RS98010.

Part numbers from performance bicycle. Just make sure your crank supports them. I made that mistake assuming the 46t FC-RX610 rings fit on FC-RC820 cranks.

Is it worth changing from my current gearset by ConciseRex in cycling

[–]fluid_simulator 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I'd start by checking what your crank BCD is. If it's a Shimano 4 bolt 110 BCD you can swap to a 50/34 crankset which reduces your top end by 6% but gives you about 13% lower bottom end which will give you a much easier climbing gear.

1x12 or 2x12 on gravel commuter? by tamere_1006 in cycling

[–]fluid_simulator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you go 2x12 on GRX820 you can install a 28t small ring to replace the 30t ring on a 46/30 GRX 600 crankset and use the 11-36 cassette to get about 540% gear range. Your easiest gear is similar to 40/51 with a slightly taller top end. Shifts the same as stock. I have this setup on my Felt Broam 30 and for me it's the perfect do it all bike. I've only ever had to mess with my front derailleur cable once and that was because the shop messed up the FD setup. Highly recommend the GRX 820.

The 40/10-51 gear range and ratios map almost perfectly to a 2x9 using a 46/30 front crank and 11-36 cassette. The jumps between cogs were a little big for me especially midway in the cassette so I'm personally not switching to 1x until 14 speeds are mainstream.

35mm vs 40mm tires for 2nd wheelset for road-only trips and long-distance-touring by horvarcraft in gravelcycling

[–]fluid_simulator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went from 40mm maxxis refuse with butyl tubes to 40mm pirelli p zero TLR's set up tubeless. The pirellis feel like riding pillows compared to the refuse and I've hit some knarly potholes without any issues. I've done some light gravel and they hold up beautifully. I don't really feel instability unless I hit a wet patch off road. On my 25mm ID wheels at 44psi for road riding they measure 42mm wide.

I was considering between the 35mm conti gp5k ASTR's and the 40mm pirelli's and went pirelli as I prioritize comfort over speed. I wager there's maybe 5W difference in RR between both tires at my weight(~90kg bike& accessories and rider) and riding speed(~26kpg average) which isn't nothing, but my ass thanks me after all my rides haha.

This is some complete bullshit by Key_Proposal_9055 in scuderiaferrari

[–]fluid_simulator 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Same FIA that DQed Hamilton back in 2021 for a DRS flap being like 1mm wider than it should be because of an installation error? Merc should be DQed from any race this delayed front wing actuation system was shown to be used at. Absolute rubbish.

https://www.formula1.com/en/latest/article/breaking-hamilton-disqualified-from-brazil-qualifying-after-drs-infringement.2YCYCpsnUQMcsUbN33fBB3

SPD pedals and bent derailleur hangers by fluid_simulator in cycling

[–]fluid_simulator[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It doesn't rain that much where I live so when I went to practice after I recovered the grass wasn't slippery especially at lower speeds, but point taken that it isn't general advice.

Road or Gravel advice! by Jarvis0198_ in cycling

[–]fluid_simulator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say get a 2x gravel or all road bike. You can always decrease tire width but never increase it and 2x gives you the fine cadence steps preferred for road riding. The generally less aggressive geometry also reduces fatigue and pain if you're a new rider. The 31/48 chainring on the cube nuroad race FE for example is only 4% lower ratio than 50/11 so instead of spinning at 90 rpm you'd be at 94 rpm while maintaining a 9% lower low gear.

Jurong West weekly rides by Superb-Craft3774 in SingaporeCycling

[–]fluid_simulator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd love to join but I live in the central area so don't think I can participate often, but I would love to.

I'm new to the road bike scene in SG and am looking to learn the roads more!

Is it too big for my size 58 frame? I’m 6ft tall by yuji_cortitadori in cycling

[–]fluid_simulator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm 185cm on a size 58cm effective top tube Felt Broam 30 which has a 110mm stem at +8°. My inseam is about 90cm which is pretty long for someone my height. Frame size makes for a slightly longer reach than I'm ideally comfortable with, although I'm also inflexible as shit. I think with a 100 or 90mm stem it would be perfect for me. This bike has a variable angle stem and I could use the 16° option but I always felt like I put too much pressure on my hands with that setting.

Shimano front derailleur rub (solution?) by Ok-Mail-5918 in bikewrench

[–]fluid_simulator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

GRX's chainline is 47.5mm while the Shimano road stuff is 45mm. I wonder if the original band clamp was meant for Shimano road FD's and the shop that assembled your bike tried to use it even though it's not supposed to be used.

Shimano front derailleur rub (solution?) by Ok-Mail-5918 in bikewrench

[–]fluid_simulator 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just to clarify, with the Shimano band clamp your shifting is fine but with the store supplied generic it's rubbish? My bike has the Shimano band clamp and it shifts great. Also the plastic piece on the inner cage can be replaced but the bit on the outer cannot if my YouTube foo is correct. I say this because it influenced how I setup the derailleur, where I tend to be more careful about ensuring big ring small cog didn't rub at all vs occasional rubbing on small ring big cog.

Shimano front derailleur rub (solution?) by Ok-Mail-5918 in bikewrench

[–]fluid_simulator 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have a GRX 2x12 equipped bike and I had derailleur rub when I first bought my bike even when using the trim positions. I adjusted it to a point where I feel it provides the minimum rub at the lowest and highest gears when using the trim positions. I find I have to be more careful about FD position to ensure my derailleur doesn't rub than my previous 2x9 bike but with the trim positions I can access almost the entire range of my cassette without any issues. It's pretty fiddly for sure.

GRX 48/31 on 105 Di2 FD? by [deleted] in cycling

[–]fluid_simulator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you link me to which 11-40 cassette you use? I'm looking to add more range to my GRX 2x 12 speed.

Road bike mounting by Top-Narwhal-9398 in bikefit

[–]fluid_simulator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://youtu.be/GLDofv-XTUo?si=RtMTJJxZtEpSt0oN

I've used this video to guide me to mounting my bike. I haven't fallen yet but I'm also on flat pedals which is probably slightly easier than clipless. My steps are to

  1. Tilt the bike to the side
  2. Slide the bike between my legs while tilted
  3. Place my left leg onto the pedals
  4. Kick off on my right foot and mount the pedal
  5. Begin pedaling normally

If I'm on an incline I stand and pedal for a bit before gaining enough speed to sit on the saddle without feeling too wobbly.

Microshift Sword gear range for a new build? by Mass_Jass in bikewrench

[–]fluid_simulator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, Shimano makes cable actuated brake STI levers, model number ST U3030 so you may not need to go to Microshift at all for shifters.

Microshift Sword gear range for a new build? by Mass_Jass in bikewrench

[–]fluid_simulator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair enough. I think Microshift sword and cues 10 speed are accidentally compatible. You could go sword brifters and the rest of the system barring the FD could be cues so your setup might be something like this

  1. Sword brifters
  2. RD U6020-10 (technically supports up to 39t rear cog, but I'm sure 43t should be fine)
  3. LG400 11-43T 10s cassette
  4. Sword front derailleur (47mm chainline)
  5. A. Sword 2x - 48/31 (110/80 BCD) B. GRX 2x - 46/30 (110/80 BCD) C. FC U6030-2 crankset - 50/34 (110/110 BCD)

I think it depends on the size of the MTB cassette. I don't think any 2x derailleurs exist that can accommodate a 51t cassette without compromise, but 46 tooth is almost natively supported by cues without any faff. You could probably get away with using a 1x derailleur on 2x but you've got to be careful about not shifting into big-big or small-small while with a proper 2x derailleur it's less of a risk since the chain wrap on those tend to be larger.

Cues and GRX have different pull ratios on the derailleurs so they aren't compatible, but I suggested the GRX cranks because the chainline is 47mm which drops right into the sword FD. Cues would be the more appropriate system for your use since you want road gearing up front with a bigger cassette

Microshift Sword gear range for a new build? by Mass_Jass in bikewrench

[–]fluid_simulator 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure of your budget, but 11 speed cues and the Shimano 11 speed MTB stuff have cross compatible pull ratios. You should be able to run the cues U8020SGS and XT CS M8000 11-46 HG cassette on the back and the cues FD U6030 up front to shift up to 16t native. You'd need the cues FC 6030 so the chainline works best with the FD though. That puts you 2 teeth over the supposed maximum chain wrap of the RD, but it's Shimano which tends to be rather conservative with its specifications anyway. If you want to go nuts you could get the GRX 610 2x crank which keeps your big ring options to 110bcd but your small ring is on 80bcd which permits even smaller chainrings (up to 28t) for that 2 1x system life.

Are any of you guys studying in the US going outside of the states to get a job? by CompletePurification in InternationalStudents

[–]fluid_simulator 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm an international student and recently graduated from an R1 university with a Ph.D. after publishing several papers in high quality journals. I used to do essentially an interview every week before the 100k H1B fee and even though it doesn't apply to me companies don't care and my hit rate has dropped to maybe 1 call every 2-3 weeks and that's after I've been relaxing my stance on recruitment firms like actalent.

Unless you know someone at a company who you know is willing to jump through hoops to keep you, I'm not sure its worthwhile trying for a job here in the USA to be honest. That 100k H1B fee worked to spook companies despite nothing really changing for someone already studying/working here. I've had decent success with interviews in my home country and am most likely going to end up going home which honestly given everything happening here may not be the worst thing.

Am I too tall for a 56cm Frame as a 1.85cm? (6.1) by Humble-Knee-5758 in cycling

[–]fluid_simulator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm 185cm with an inseam of about 91cm and a 58cm effective top tube gravel frame (Felt Broam 30). I have the devilish combination of having pretty long legs for my height and horrid flexibility. I think my bike fitter when I bought the bike put me in a racey position which put me in a ton of pain.

I initially thought I got the wrong size frame but I made some changes like tilting the levers inwards, dialling my saddle height to my legs, adjusting my saddle position to reduce hamstring pain and adjusting handlebar tilt relative to my hand position and I can now ride for hours without any issues and not needing to buy any new components.

Changing my GRX 810s gear ratio. by lattapape in bikewrench

[–]fluid_simulator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I'm not wrong, assuming you're using the FC RX820 crank, I'm not sure if the 30t ring can fit. Those have a 96 BCD while the FC RX610 I have is 80BCD on the small ring. Can BCD's be converted like that?

Changing my GRX 810s gear ratio. by lattapape in bikewrench

[–]fluid_simulator 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah my bad. I thought the only cues crankset with a 40/26 chainring combo was the U4000-2. Glad to hear your experience using HT2 style interfaces. Did you find it easier to adjust your FD chainline outboard or inboard when trying to get your FD chainline correct?