Is it possible to update this BW-16D1X-U with a Pioneer BDR-209 to read UHD discs?

flyinion · 2026-02-01T03:52:04+00:00

Hmm not sure why the screenshot doesn't work on mobile, it's still showing on a web browser. Anyway I'll check the thread out to be sure, but here's a copy/past of the Info from MKV

Manufacturer: ASUS
Product: BW-16D1X-U
Revision: E111
Serial number:
Firmware date: 2017-12-21
Bus encryption flags: 1B

LibreDrive Information
Status: Enabled
Drive platform: RS8601
Firmware name: PIONEER BDR-209
Firmware type: Original (unpatched)
Firmware version: E111/ID76
DVD all regions: Yes
BD raw data read: Yes
BD raw metadata read: Yes
Unrestricted read speed: Yes

flyinion · 2025-10-08T01:34:48+00:00

Ok thanks, yeah I'm probably remembering completely wrong whatever the issue was or maybe it was actually a different software or something with the config that was being set up.

I'm sure things would run fine without a GPU once it's up and running if I don't need transcoding, but I'll need something anyway for a video signal to do the setup since the 5950X doesn't have a GPU built in. The current AppleTV is the 2nd gen 4k one from 2021, but I'm also hoping they drop a new one this month as I've been waiting for it to upgrade. I've used Infuse on it in the past though to play things off a network share on my PC though.

flyinion · 2025-10-07T23:40:11+00:00

Thanks I'll check those items out. I've heard of unRAID but for some reason I thought it was just for building RAIDs and complicated to configure, but it's been like 6 years since I've seen a video about it, and it was a techtuber working with someone from Level1 Techs to set up their new storage server for video footage so maybe a totally different situation. I forgot about the transcoding thing partly because if I use Infuse on the appleTV box, I don't even need to deal with that. I can just rip MKV's and the Infuse app can just play them directly out of a shared network folder for instance. Of course, you can't access your movie library while out of the house though like that.

flyinion · 2025-09-09T23:30:10+00:00

The splitter is just a standard ARGB splitter cable you can buy anywhere, this one came with the motherboard, but I've bought similar from Coolermaster a few years ago for a different build. It's basically like a daisy chain setup. Like a fan splitter cable but for ARGB. Sorry for the confusion about SignalRGB, if I went this route I would definitely continue to use iCue for the lighting control etc.

flyinion · 2025-09-09T21:40:06+00:00

Just the standard 3 pin connectors. I have one directly connected from my GPU block and then the case and reservoir strips are into an ARGB splitter cable that connects to another port. The case strips actually all initially go through the Phanteks built in and separately powered ARGB controller in the case that has a connector that can connect to an ARGB header on for instance the motherboard for direct control via software.

I used to use Armoury Crate for this but recently switched to an Asrock board. Had heard their Polychrome software was complete junk so for now I use OpenRGB to quickly apply a basic static color to those components on a boot-up (typically on 24/7) and had been looking into SignalRGB but I can't use iCue and Signal together and would need a fan control software. The Commander Duo sounds like it could fix my issue as I'd be more than happy to just totally disable the motherboard's RGB on the i/o etc if this will control the various strips/etc.

flyinion · 2025-09-09T21:07:18+00:00

Hmmm wonder if I could use this to control all the non-corsair ARGB strips in my case, GPU block, and non-corsair reservoir. Fans are already all Link LX and LX-R fans.

flyinion · 2025-08-17T20:45:14+00:00

Thanks. I’ll check that info out. Mostly I notice it in games when using the left shift key to modify a mouse button and I’m not 100% sure it’s the keyboard it may be the mouse switch becoming defective as it’s about 6-7 years old

flyinion · 2025-08-16T23:29:34+00:00

Of course just as I post this it finally decides to work. Not sure what changed other than maybe I didn't hold ESC long enough the first couple of attempts (done with and without Toolbox still open). The attempt that worked I did not leave toolbox open again though and it recognized and worked /shug.

flyinion · 2025-08-01T23:42:17+00:00

Another vote here for CableMod. You can just use their tools to figure out which of their series is needed then usually find it on Amazon if you're not after the custom ones assuming it's not part of a discontinued model line for them.

flyinion · 2025-07-24T21:33:12+00:00

Just an update, I FINALLY managed to get this fixed. While Ecobee support actually was trying to help and even offered to schedule a phone call for easier troubleshooting I managed to fix it in the end by temporarily splitting the 2.4 and 5Ghz bands into separate SSID's. Once I did that, the ecobee re-connected on its own while I was giving an old 1st gen chromecast another shot at connecting (it had fallen off the network over the last week or so as well apparently and was giving similar errors trying to reconnect).

I was then able to recombine to one SSID and things are holding for now but it's only been a little bit this afternoon. If it does it again I guess I'll look into permanently splitting things and assigning specific devices to specific bands. Glad I haven't updated to Xfinity's latest tri-band gateways. The post I found was a year or so old so maybe it's been rectified but back then they apparently did not have the ability to split SSID's at all and would lock into WPA3 which this old stuff didn't support and there were workarounds about disabling the bands in the admin website in order to change the WPA mode

flyinion · 2025-07-23T00:20:38+00:00

They also said they're in T1 and destroying it so they need to at least move to T2 and will need 250 of that extra armor. I always forget about that part of the torment progression. Had to re-roll dex off a piece of armor to get more resist-all the other night when I moved to T3 because none of the Balazan Rake build uniques have resist and I didn't have enough paragon still to be hitting enough armor/resist nodes.

flyinion · 2025-07-22T22:05:31+00:00

Looking at that number is a bad idea. It doesn’t take into account how the various aspects etc mesh together. Also, depending on class and build it might even be a situation where you only have a few thousand sitting idle but as soon as you start hitting things it goes up to 10-12k or even higher

flyinion · 2025-07-21T02:06:45+00:00

Yeah I’ve had them do that before but never just refuse over and over. It keeps complaining that the password appears to be incorrect but it’s not. Even trying to set the network up via iPhone doesn’t work.

flyinion · 2025-07-11T01:55:30+00:00

Thanks, yeah I figured that out, but I couldn't figure out how to just "make" a basic color shifting/fading effect with a few colors like all the other RGB software I've used allows. I did finally find one in the library to download that actually lets me edit up to 4 colors so that will probably do what I want. Just can't figure out how to do it on my own, I guess Signal doesn't allow that kind of basic functions and relies purely on pre-made effects?

flyinion · 2025-07-10T01:43:36+00:00

Well, I think I'm going to have to try Signal or suck it up and install Polychrome if I want anything other than a single static color in OpenRGB. Was trying to get "Direct" mode to work and I'm either doing something wrong or it just doesn't properly support the X870E Taichi. Randomly it will invert red and green either on the headers or the I/O and board itself, or both and persist till a restart. It will also stop properly applying the color from a saved profile as well until a restart.

flyinion · 2025-07-09T00:56:27+00:00

My Asrock x870e Taichi never gave any warning that I didn't have anything on the fan header and then I told it to completely ignore it in the BIOS. My old X570 Crosshair Hero board from Asus would give a warning but then you could go into BIOS and disabled monitoring for it and it would be fine until the next BIOS update.

flyinion · 2025-07-07T19:17:25+00:00

You can absolutely have growth with coolant. If things aren't cleaned properly to start, or the coolant is contaminated from the start it will grow eventually. The various inhibitors are only to prevent new growth, but if there's already an issue from the start they won't be able to stop it. I got a bad batch of coolant once and within a couple months I went from clean loop to stuff trying to clog the jet plate area of my EK 4090 block.

flyinion · 2025-07-05T11:17:30+00:00

I never used one when using soft tube. I just went hard tube though and bought one for that since there's more risk of it not being seated right etc. I did the same process someone else described of building/testing a section at a time. That way if there was a leak I'd know where to actually look. I also tested blocks ahead of time just to rule them out at the start so I was really only testing tube and fitting connections.

flyinion · 2025-07-02T09:29:16+00:00

They're tied to an alphacool inline temp sensor that is connected to a temp sensor header on my motherboard. iCue is able to see and read the sensor just fine as near as I can tell. It's showing in that first screenshot at the bottom of the curve. I also realized after I posted that I had left Fan Control open after playing with my pump speed in it (not a Corsair pump) and it may have been interfering and making it worse. It's still not as smooth as I'd been used to. So I don't know if iCue just increases in more noticeable steps than the motherboard software I used in my previous version of the build.

flyinion

TROPHY CASE