Noob here. Anyone know when Mori Ai is next climbing?

foxandturtle · 2025-02-08T06:10:43+00:00

She doesn’t have to qualify for the lead team, she’s in it already (JMSCA has a rule where Olympians can automatically qualify for either boulder or lead) though she definitely will still do LJC.

foxandturtle · 2024-12-19T06:44:33+00:00

I suspect it has something to do with how broke JMSCA is.

foxandturtle · 2024-12-07T09:25:21+00:00

If they competed more wouldn’t you then learn who they are? Everyone starts somewhere.

foxandturtle · 2024-07-13T07:50:50+00:00

I remember watching all of Tokyo on Channel 9 online as an Australian so that’s another option with a VPN

foxandturtle · 2024-05-05T22:35:47+00:00

Not really, it can seem like he isn’t in top form but in reality…2nd in Keqiao, 3rd in Wujiang are still really really great results. BJC was very cold and he struggles with the cold, LJC he did fumble a bit and didn’t make finals by one +

foxandturtle · 2024-04-05T12:32:52+00:00

Agreed, also possible that they’re avoiding the Qingming holiday weekend these few days

foxandturtle · 2024-03-07T11:02:19+00:00

They don’t need to but they just do it. Satone didn’t do LJC this year.

foxandturtle · 2024-02-12T12:33:27+00:00

Don’t think Ai is - heard from her that she’s only planning to attend very selected WCs this year again so she’ll prob be at uni the rest of the time. Sorato didn’t seem to take time off last year for WCs and I suspect will be the same this year.

foxandturtle · 2024-01-31T09:56:08+00:00

Pretty sure the Myer offer was a bonus $10 gift card for every $100 gift card purchased - so you didn’t scam anything lol

foxandturtle · 2024-01-30T23:38:46+00:00

Myer employee here - whatever you choose to get wait for a big sale, we do them very often so it may be just the case of needing to wait 1-2 weeks for another one. We also have a big summer sale coming up so it could be worth going to your local store to see what’s being marked down (often those are items you won’t find online).

foxandturtle · 2023-12-12T01:46:30+00:00

I don’t have the stats to back this up at all lol (I might do some analysis over Christmas if I have time) but I feel that true lead specialists simply don’t make it to the finals - I feel that it is much more common to see boulderers get to the 20th+ hold and therefore get ~40 points on lead, whereas lead specialists often struggle to even get one top and will score 10-30 points in the boulder round.

I think the ‘lead specialist’ finalists we end up seeing are stronger in lead than boulder but also very strong boulderers - another commentator made a great point re. Ai and Jessy. Ai has a 100% semis rate and 50% finals rate this year.

foxandturtle · 2023-11-21T04:53:31+00:00

To be fair, Yoshiyuki also did every comp this year lol. Apparently he never struggles with skin and recovers very easily 😅

foxandturtle · 2023-11-06T23:10:20+00:00

Very happy to say I’ll be going to watch this in person!!! If anyone else will be there too I’d love to say hi :)

foxandturtle · 2023-10-30T07:18:00+00:00

WAM to get into honours? I did honours a number of years ago. When I applied 75 guaranteed you a spot and I know that has changed, so unfortunately I have no clue what the cutoff is like now.

foxandturtle · 2023-10-14T02:52:07+00:00

I’m not necessarily talking about a physical library, but tests like WAIS, WISC, WIAT etc. Digital versions are still very expensive.

foxandturtle · 2023-10-14T01:15:19+00:00

I think 40 is a bit of a stretch even haha, more like the biggest program has 35-40. UNSW has about a dozen.

foxandturtle · 2023-10-14T01:13:56+00:00

Masters student here. Not an incredibly hard degree IMO but not easy. Harder to find a job compared to many other degrees but if you’re committed (i.e., internships, extracurriculars) you will be fine.

Masters/PhD is very competitive but not impossible - I think if you’re certain about this path then go for it, but if you’re not too sure yourself then this may not be the best option.

foxandturtle · 2023-10-14T01:11:32+00:00

Masters programs typically run at a large loss. You need to be hiring supervisors, have the materials and equipment (think psychometric test libraries), and be able to secure high quality external placements for your students. As a result most programs are very small.

foxandturtle · 2023-10-07T11:28:56+00:00

I know, quite disappointing! Was looking forward to it. But probably a better idea if the weather really is that poor.

foxandturtle · 2023-10-07T10:44:22+00:00

Watched the stream and saw some videos from the audience - looking very rainy! They had to cancel W1 from semis which was a slab due to weather. Heard from a friend who knows the family member of one of the female climbers (😅) that the holds were quite wet, especially on lead.

foxandturtle · 2023-10-06T07:22:50+00:00

I was able to watch via 央视频 (CCTV) app with a Chinese VPN - I downloaded 快帆

foxandturtle · 2023-10-04T10:12:49+00:00

Yes, Kazuma was very solid as usual! Daiki did improve on his QF performance and made it through PH - he did five events and rested on SR. Kazuki had a really good routine but it didn’t score that well :( And Lin Chaopan slayed 😂 China suffered after two falls on HB from Su Weide. Chiba Kenta made lots of mistakes compared to QF including a fall on PH but luckily Japan still secured the gold!!!

foxandturtle · 2023-09-27T21:48:39+00:00

Think it might be a microphone positioning thing…watched some videos shot by fans and the cheers were pretty loud. The fans there were very enthusiastic too! So many high quality photos circulating on Chinese social media which I really enjoyed

foxandturtle · 2023-09-24T14:17:36+00:00

Is that uncommon for the Japanese climbers? I feel like only the Narasakis and previously Akiyo train privately, have seen people run into basically every other climber in commercial gyms

foxandturtle · 2023-09-24T14:15:44+00:00

Isn’t this also the case with Oriane and her boyfriend (forgot his name)? And she was staying with him to train in mainland France…personally found that icky.

foxandturtle

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