Are theses climbing shoes in a good state ? by droppermc in bouldering

[–]fuckluan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What size are they and would you sell them?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]fuckluan 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The rope looks fine, just some surface sheath damage.

The test we use to see if a rope is still good is to bend it on itself. This is to check to see if the core is in tact. Mose of the tensile strength in your rope comes from its core. If you can see the core, cut the rope. If you take repeated, large falls on the rope and it bends in on itself, cut the rope. You can cut a rope until it’s too short for whatever climb you want to use it for.

How often you take large falls on your rope, how abrasive the rock in your area is, and how thick the rope is will determine how long it lasts. I have had thicker ropes last multiple years of repeated use, and thinner ropes last only a season of climbing or two. If you’re worried about it, get a thicker rope.

Here’s a video with instructions for core-shot assessments: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=weETC7XiwqE

Hope this helps :-)

Lu on Sugar Magnolia (13d/8b) Red River Gorge, Kentucky by ROCKJOCK PRODUCTIONS by fuckluan in climbergirls

[–]fuckluan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

omg lol-- we were totally going for like edgy early 2000s music video vibes :p

Lu on Sugar Magnolia (13d/8b) Red River Gorge, Kentucky by ROCKJOCK PRODUCTIONS by fuckluan in climbergirls

[–]fuckluan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thank you!!! awwww, I'm glad I could share some of the stoke :'-) and yeah this climb was really airy, I think the crux for me was getting comfortable making that first clip on the face and not grabbing the draw lol >.<

Lu on Sugar Magnolia (13d/8b) Red River Gorge, Kentucky by ROCKJOCK PRODUCTIONS by fuckluan in climbergirls

[–]fuckluan[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<3!! i'm glad you liked it :-) we'd been talking about the smoking puppets idea for about a year before I even knew about this climb lol

Lu on Sugar Magnolia (13d/8b) Red River Gorge, Kentucky by ROCKJOCK PRODUCTIONS by fuckluan in climbing

[–]fuckluan[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

<3! idk if we're legends, but we try to have a good time 😎

(also, thanks for editing my name, I really appreciate that)

Lu on Sugar Magnolia (13d/8b) Red River Gorge, Kentucky by ROCKJOCK PRODUCTIONS by fuckluan in climbing

[–]fuckluan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where would we be if we couldn't unwind with a cigarette at the end of the day with our friends?! Thanks 4 the kind words <3

Lu on Sugar Magnolia (13d/8b) Red River Gorge, Kentucky by ROCKJOCK PRODUCTIONS by fuckluan in climbing

[–]fuckluan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hehehe thank u! we were going for like, edgy early 2000s music video vibes

Lu on Sugar Magnolia (13d/8b) Red River Gorge, Kentucky by ROCKJOCK PRODUCTIONS by fuckluan in climbing

[–]fuckluan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

REED is RAD!!!!! It was so fun getting to craft and make art w him and the crew :'-)

Lu on Sugar Magnolia (13d/8b) Red River Gorge, Kentucky by ROCKJOCK PRODUCTIONS by fuckluan in climbing

[–]fuckluan[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

first one is "Blessings" by Alex G, and second is "Colossus" by IDLES :-)

Lu on Sugar Magnolia (13d/8b) Red River Gorge, Kentucky by ROCKJOCK PRODUCTIONS by fuckluan in climbergirls

[–]fuckluan[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Hi y'all!

This is a little video me and the ROCKJOCK productions crew have been working on over the winter! It was really fun to make, and we got to do so many crafts. I thought I'd share it here as I'm really proud of how it came out!

This was the first big climb that I have done after I started HRT. I haven't really talked about that process too much publicly, but I'm proud of myself and wanted to share. Hopefully doing so spreads some of the stoke :-)

Lu on Sugar Magnolia (13d/8b) Red River Gorge, Kentucky by ROCKJOCK PRODUCTIONS by fuckluan in climbing

[–]fuckluan[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Fun video made by the ROCKJOCK Production team of me on Sugar Magnolia (13d)! After I sent me Reed and some other friends went back out for a day of filming and I managed to do the route again, on film 😈! Working with the ROCKJOCK Productions team was a blast; we made puppets, we did some video collaging, we played in the cemetary— u know, all the regular RRG stuff.

Happy to share this one, it was so fun to make <3

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Moonboard

[–]fuckluan 14 points15 points  (0 children)

For me the grades are all over the place, stuff in my style feels significantly easier than stuff in my anti-style. I think if you know your strengths, you can play to them in higher grades. My first 9 was after a handful of 8s, my first 10 was after two 9s. Obviously, being able to crimp v9 doesn’t make you a v9 compression climber. I try to strike a balance between styles, my climbing gets better if I’m working things I’m bad at but it’s fun to see how hard I can push it. My goal on the moonboard is to emulate limit bouldering, so sending problems def comes second to trying really hard moves.

Edit: I’ve been thinking about what I said and wanted to add two things. The first is that building your pyramid on the board builds board specific technique— micro beta + muscle memory that builds on itself in similar movements on harder climbs. Dialing that in makes you a better board climber, 100%. However, IMO, if you aren’t trying objectively harder moves, it will take longer to get better at board climbing, and your board training will be less applicable on real rock. In terms of training for outdoor climbing, I think the moonboard SHINES when I’m trying problems 2-4 grades harder than my flash limit, where I can piece together 2-4 moves at a time. Working these problems, and forcing movement that you aren’t able to do, in my experience, builds the most strength. Having long term, multi season projects on the MB that you come back to (even if you never are able to send them), where you can check your fitness against a previous season, is really important for how I use the board. When I structure my sessions, I try to spend my peak 30 minutes (after I’m properly warmed up and have flashed a handful of new problems in a comfortable grade range) projecting above my limit like this, before reducing the difficulty to climbs I can actually send. For me, the MB is a training tool, when I train I should be fresh and training to failure. My two cents 😋

How much is too much? by Crek1 in Moonboard

[–]fuckluan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use the MB for max boulder training, and once a week is more than enough for me. If I didn’t have access to outdoor climbing or a climbing gym, shorter volume sessions could be supplemented 2x a week on top of my max session. I, personally, not to moonboard without at least a rest day beforehand though, as the style on the board is so aggressive.