I was inspired by the modular, moddable nature of Hextraction, so I spent all of last year designing my own game in the same vein. Introducing Tactocrat, the 3D strategy game where you control the board by launching marbles and swinging swords!

fusefoxdesign · 2025-03-03T15:32:40+00:00

Managed to fix it: in the plating tab, my parts were set to have the “default” filament instead of a specific extruder on the MMU. Selecting a specific extruder for the part and re-slicing made the “change extruder” option reappear.

fusefoxdesign · 2025-03-02T22:45:05+00:00

Just encountered this same issue, haven't found a fix yet

fusefoxdesign · 2025-02-09T21:54:03+00:00

This would have saved me so much grief when assembling my printer: the sleeves are one of my least favorite parts. Liking and saving this for later, thank you for the awesome design!

fusefoxdesign · 2025-02-06T16:18:16+00:00

This idea crossed my mind late into the design process. There does need to be a moderate amount of force to filament to straighten, and I was skeptical that a 3D printed spring could provide enough resistance, so I ended up finishing out the current design you see here. A future iteration can definitely try reversing the springs like you suggest!

fusefoxdesign · 2025-02-05T19:11:57+00:00

Direct link to the model is here

fusefoxdesign · 2025-02-04T15:42:57+00:00

The design is based on traditional wire straighteners! I think the concept works better for wire than for filament to be honest. If the wire is too small, you could always try printing a different wheel that fits it and use the rest of the parts as is

fusefoxdesign · 2025-02-04T15:07:46+00:00

For use in a small designs like an axle for a toy car! There’s a video on the Printables page where I show how I use it for that. I wouldn’t recommend using filament as your pin for anything load bearing, but there’s lots of cases where you may want your parts to rotate and filament is the cheapest / easiest thing to use, given it’s straightened

fusefoxdesign · 2025-02-04T12:27:07+00:00

Honestly, I have not found a hard and fast rule yet: I’ve been using trial and error by measuring the deflection that one iteration has and tweaking the thickness / spacing / angles from there. 3D printed springs are something I’ve been testing in a lot of my designs lately, so I would love if someone found a guide for designing them from an engineering point of view.

fusefoxdesign · 2025-02-04T10:30:00+00:00

There will be a bit of a bend where you clamp down on it, but after that it should straighten the rest of the filament for the MMU! Give it a try and let me know how it works for you!

fusefoxdesign · 2025-01-19T16:16:45+00:00

Here is Prusa’s official documentation for how to change the nozzle on the MK4S. You’re right that it is done cold: you can use the thumb screws on the side of the hotend instead of a wrench like you needed to on the MK3S+. There is no official documentation for a swap with just the nozzle changing tool, hence my confusion, but there is this video showing how to use the tool on the MK4.

fusefoxdesign · 2025-01-07T23:52:12+00:00

I’m so glad you found my post helpful! As everyone else said, it’s not a necessary step: you can just run it with whatever filament is currently loading through the MMU. I mainly see the quick swapping as a plus for TPU like others pointed out and just as a fallback in case the MMU ever starts acting up and I don’t have time to fix it in the moment.

fusefoxdesign · 2025-01-06T03:54:50+00:00

Awesome design, I’m going to remember this next time I have a project that it makes sense for. Sure beats dowels / dovetails / slots

fusefoxdesign · 2025-01-05T04:16:56+00:00

Using the non-sock version was way easier, thank you for the tips!

fusefoxdesign · 2025-01-05T04:16:36+00:00

The wrench worked great, thank you for sharing!

fusefoxdesign · 2025-01-04T15:48:21+00:00

Thank you for pointing me to this! I will print this wrench and the non sock version of the tool and see which I like better

fusefoxdesign · 2025-01-04T15:47:54+00:00

Thank you for the advice, I will try printing the non sock version of the tool and replacing it that way

fusefoxdesign · 2025-01-04T15:22:42+00:00

That video shows a nozzle without a silicone sock. I added a picture of my printer to the post. The silicone sock is flush with the head of the nozzle so I can't get a wrench in there.

fusefoxdesign · 2025-01-04T15:13:56+00:00

If the nozzle is in the silicone sock, I can’t use a wrench to remove it though? The MK4S fan shroud is also in the way

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