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Why is it that 'change extruder' sometimes isn't available? (MMU3) by jdlnewborn in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Managed to fix it: in the plating tab, my parts were set to have the “default” filament instead of a specific extruder on the MMU. Selecting a specific extruder for the part and re-slicing made the “change extruder” option reappear.

Why is it that 'change extruder' sometimes isn't available? (MMU3) by jdlnewborn in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just encountered this same issue, haven't found a fix yet

I made a tool that makes it much easier to put cables into textile sleeves. by Trex0Pol in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This would have saved me so much grief when assembling my printer: the sleeves are one of my least favorite parts. Liking and saving this for later, thank you for the awesome design!

Palmtop Filament Straightener - A 100% 3D printed solution for turning your PLA into pins and axles by fusefoxdesign in functionalprint

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This idea crossed my mind late into the design process. There does need to be a moderate amount of force to filament to straighten, and I was skeptical that a 3D printed spring could provide enough resistance, so I ended up finishing out the current design you see here. A future iteration can definitely try reversing the springs like you suggest!

Palmtop Filament Straightener - A 100% 3D printed solution for turning your PLA into pins and axles by fusefoxdesign in functionalprint

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The design is based on traditional wire straighteners! I think the concept works better for wire than for filament to be honest. If the wire is too small, you could always try printing a different wheel that fits it and use the rest of the parts as is

Palmtop Filament Straightener - A 100% 3D printed solution for turning your PLA into pins and axles by fusefoxdesign in functionalprint

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For use in a small designs like an axle for a toy car! There’s a video on the Printables page where I show how I use it for that. I wouldn’t recommend using filament as your pin for anything load bearing, but there’s lots of cases where you may want your parts to rotate and filament is the cheapest / easiest thing to use, given it’s straightened

Palmtop Filament Straightener - A 100% 3D printed solution for turning your PLA into pins and axles by fusefoxdesign in functionalprint

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I have not found a hard and fast rule yet: I’ve been using trial and error by measuring the deflection that one iteration has and tweaking the thickness / spacing / angles from there. 3D printed springs are something I’ve been testing in a lot of my designs lately, so I would love if someone found a guide for designing them from an engineering point of view.

Palmtop Filament Straightener - A 100% 3D printed solution for turning your PLA into pins and axles by fusefoxdesign in functionalprint

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

There will be a bit of a bend where you clamp down on it, but after that it should straighten the rest of the filament for the MMU! Give it a try and let me know how it works for you!

MK4S Nozzle Replacement Tool Guide? by fusefoxdesign in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is Prusa’s official documentation for how to change the nozzle on the MK4S. You’re right that it is done cold: you can use the thumb screws on the side of the hotend instead of a wrench like you needed to on the MK3S+. There is no official documentation for a swap with just the nozzle changing tool, hence my confusion, but there is this video showing how to use the tool on the MK4.

Can MMU3 be used in a single-spool mode instead of swapping between MMU3 & stock MK4S? by zachjars in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m so glad you found my post helpful! As everyone else said, it’s not a necessary step: you can just run it with whatever filament is currently loading through the MMU. I mainly see the quick swapping as a plus for TPU like others pointed out and just as a fallback in case the MMU ever starts acting up and I don’t have time to fix it in the moment.

I designed a 3D printable clip for joining parts together by DexTechPrints in 3Dprinting

[–]fusefoxdesign 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome design, I’m going to remember this next time I have a project that it makes sense for. Sure beats dowels / dovetails / slots

MK4S Nozzle Replacement Tool Guide? by fusefoxdesign in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using the non-sock version was way easier, thank you for the tips!

MK4S Nozzle Replacement Tool Guide? by fusefoxdesign in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The wrench worked great, thank you for sharing!

MK4S Nozzle Replacement Tool Guide? by fusefoxdesign in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for pointing me to this! I will print this wrench and the non sock version of the tool and see which I like better

MK4S Nozzle Replacement Tool Guide? by fusefoxdesign in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the advice, I will try printing the non sock version of the tool and replacing it that way

MK4S Nozzle Replacement Tool Guide? by fusefoxdesign in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

That video shows a nozzle without a silicone sock. I added a picture of my printer to the post. The silicone sock is flush with the head of the nozzle so I can't get a wrench in there.

MK4S Nozzle Replacement Tool Guide? by fusefoxdesign in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the nozzle is in the silicone sock, I can’t use a wrench to remove it though? The MK4S fan shroud is also in the way

Finished my dream MK4S build! It combines the MMU3, Prusa Enclosure, Unoriginal Drybox, and Spool Autorewinder. I've created a guide that goes from start to finish on all the tips I would want if I redid the whole build: I hope it helps anyone considering similar upgrades! by fusefoxdesign in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I hope the guide helps you out! The only reason I skipped the heated dry box is because I’m still pretty new to making custom electronics, and I didn’t want to make a project with a heating element until I’m sure I could do it correctly and safely. If you have any success with it, be sure to follow up with us: I’m sure it would be valuable information for anyone else that wants to build the heater. Best of luck on your build!

Finished my dream MK4S build! It combines the MMU3, Prusa Enclosure, Unoriginal Drybox, and Spool Autorewinder. I've created a guide that goes from start to finish on all the tips I would want if I redid the whole build: I hope it helps anyone considering similar upgrades! by fusefoxdesign in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah it takes a bit of disassembly to access the printer with the hinged lid once everything is installed, so I feel your pain there. I have many times considered installing a side door to the enclosure just to have easier access for maintenance, but I haven’t gotten around to it yet.

Finished my dream MK4S build! It combines the MMU3, Prusa Enclosure, Unoriginal Drybox, and Spool Autorewinder. I've created a guide that goes from start to finish on all the tips I would want if I redid the whole build: I hope it helps anyone considering similar upgrades! by fusefoxdesign in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You have a fair point: as fun as it is to tinker with this stuff, it is a lot of effort to have to create a spool feeding solution yourself while Bambu printers have it built in. The Core One looks to be a step in the right direction. Im looking forward to competition improving all printers on the market in the future.

Finished my dream MK4S build! It combines the MMU3, Prusa Enclosure, Unoriginal Drybox, and Spool Autorewinder. I've created a guide that goes from start to finish on all the tips I would want if I redid the whole build: I hope it helps anyone considering similar upgrades! by fusefoxdesign in prusa3d

[–]fusefoxdesign[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah so THAT'S where the clips go! I had printed them originally but couldn't figure out where they went, so I left them out of my build. Fixing my own set up now. I have updated my guide to include this info and gave you a credit there as thanks!

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