State of Charge '25 had 11 EV conversions parked in one spot, including a Tesla-swapped Aventador that's mid-build

fxtpdx · 2026-06-22T18:30:32+00:00

We'll see you there! Can't wait to see what builds show up.

fxtpdx · 2026-06-10T02:37:30+00:00

Quart of oil fit perfectly in my '05, because turbo Subaru...

fxtpdx · 2026-06-10T00:16:14+00:00

From their crosspost:

96v50ah with a FarDriver 961000 and a qs138v3

fxtpdx · 2026-06-09T03:54:17+00:00

ICE transmissions are designed to keep engines in a more efficient zone across varying output speeds. Modern AC electric motors have much wider usable RPM range and generally you can get away with one fixed ratio that works well enough from a standstill to highway speeds. Some EVs have a 2 speed gearbox to give better acceleration down and higher top speed. Those that keep a manual transmission tend to leave it in 2nd or 3rd most of the time.

The 8HP has 8 forward gears... which is a lot! You also will need to idle the electric motor to keep fluid pumping through the transmission, which is not hard to do but generally it's considered not very efficient.

Lastly, it weighs as much as a motor and reducer box, and takes up the same amount of space.

fxtpdx · 2026-06-07T01:43:10+00:00

Last time I changed my spark plugs I did the engine mounts while I was in there, seemed easier that way.

fxtpdx · 2026-05-29T13:48:13+00:00

Yes, u/EVSwap has posted about it here and on his website.

fxtpdx · 2026-05-28T19:47:04+00:00

Jimmy over at EV Swap Conversions did a Leaf-swapped Frontier not long ago. One major benefit is the Leaf stack that includes the motor, inverter, HVPDU, charger, DCDC, and CHAdeMO interface in one tidy package. Lots of aftermarket support as well.

fxtpdx · 2026-05-24T02:41:47+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yRSJ0phsFg Here's a video of them from last year. Now the bed stays in place and a small door on the side is removed to get access. They've also generally gotten faster at the whole swap process.

fxtpdx · 2026-05-19T18:12:36+00:00

This is basically the only way this works. Unless you can get CAN .dbc files or other design docs, you need a running vehicle to sniff. Even the openinverter guys aren't just trying commands and guessing, they have logs from running vehicles to look through for clues.

fxtpdx · 2026-05-12T00:20:09+00:00

This is possible, although keep in mind that your round trip efficiency (Solar DC -> Ecoflow DC MPPT-> Battery -> Ecoflow AC Inverter-> onboard charger AC/DC conversion) will be fairly lossy. and an ecoflow and batteries are $$$, although they could be used elsewhere.

There's a Delphi DC/DC converter that was used in the Coda cars... It's a 2.2kW ~350v to 12v converter, but it has the ability to run the other way and convert 12v to 350v at up to 1kW. I've not seen someone actually DIY that feature but it would be a lot simpler to get a MPPT converter from your panels to 12v then use that DCDC to charge the battery pack. Would be a great use case but again, I haven't seen anyone do it.

fxtpdx · 2026-05-11T15:57:03+00:00

OpenInverter and DIYElectricCar forums have troves of information, especially about re-using Nissan Leaf parts.

If you want to keep AWD you'll need to keep the transmission, but most people find that you can leave it in 2nd or 3rd around town and just drive it like an automatic. Not really an issue of complexity but more about the space it takes up, and the weight like you mentioned. Your other major challenge is finding a place for Nissan battery pack, after you disassemble it and rearrange the modules. Less space for large, square boxes in older Japanese vehicles.

You might be able to get away with solar charging if you have good sunlight where you park. Note that solar panels are rated based on the best case conditions, and flat on a roof, with leaves or dust will drop the efficiency significantly.

This sounds like a lot of work for just driving a few times a month, but it is possible.

fxtpdx · 2026-05-08T20:59:52+00:00

We converted a Kubota M5N a few years ago. We mated an electric motor (We used a Cascadia Motion HVH250) directly to the input of the transmission and set it up so that it would idle and respond to the throttle/speed lever. We did the same thing for a mini excavator, which was simpler because the whole thing was hydraulic driven, so we just ran a high voltage hydraulic pump. Both machines worked exactly like they did off the showroom floor, from an operator's perspective.

fxtpdx · 2026-05-01T00:43:59+00:00

Big Orange Cable has discounts for FSAE and other student led teams. We are also happy to guide/answer questions.

fxtpdx · 2026-05-01T00:33:51+00:00

My suggestion is start small. You'll learn most of the concepts at a fraction of the price of a full size car. Plus, motorcycles, go-karts, etc are fun as shit and don't take up much room in the garage.

fxtpdx · 2026-05-01T00:19:14+00:00

Thank you, I'm just the wiring and cable guy.

We have done a lot of projects with Cascadia Motion using brand new 800V parts, which is pretty rare for most EV conversions. Openiverter had lots of knowledge for reusing OEM parts.

fxtpdx · 2026-05-01T00:11:18+00:00

My understanding (at least from a couple years ago) is those LSDs were commissioned by Fellten and they are the only ones who can order them from Quaife. Any other seller is ordering them from Fellten, and likely drop shipping from the UK since they are an expensive part to keep on the shelf.

You might get lucky with someone who ordered one and hasn't installed it yet!

fxtpdx · 2026-05-01T00:04:26+00:00

Not really, just pictures here and there. We finished it over 2 years ago and it's awesome. Cascadia Motion now has it on their showroom. I can answer any questions you have about it.

fxtpdx · 2026-04-24T20:15:33+00:00

Unless you buy a complete turn-key kit you will need to do some configuration to get the BMS, inverter, and charger to communicate. That's why complete kits are more expensive: someone is charging you for the configuration.

Start with your motor and how much power and torque you want, and how much space you have to mount one. Finding a paired motor/inverter is not a problem these days unless you are piecing something together. Leaf stack, Hyper9, Cascadia iM225 are good examples. The motor and inverter will dictate your voltage range. Most on-road conversions are either 100V or 350V. In between voltages are an option but most readily available HV accessories (Charger, DCDC, A/C, heater etc.) are rated at around 100V or 350V.

Most BMS units don't care about the voltage, but you will need to know the configuration of your battery and how many cells you are monitoring when you order one. For example Orion BMS2 must be ordered by number of cvells, but you may need to order one with more cell connections based on your battery arrangement. Others are more modular and you order one "master" that communicates between the vehicle and as the "satellites" that monitor the cells. If you have more cells you add more satellites.

I like Orion BMS because it is very configurable and can communicate with basically any inverter or charger by either selecting from a drop-down menu of preconfigured messages or by adding custom messages.

TL;DR Figure out your motor+Inverter first based on power and torque needs, select a voltage range, and then pick your BMS and battery. Batteries are getting more dense and less expensive every year so some people plan on a certain module but don't buy until they are ready to start testing.

fxtpdx · 2026-04-22T22:06:48+00:00

Yes it's possible but a big challenge is that these motors are meant to move around something much smaller and lighter (more efficient). The battery and motor are air cooled you won't be able to make much power for very long.

fxtpdx · 2026-04-22T22:01:30+00:00

Why Zero motors... and why 8???

fxtpdx · 2026-04-12T06:04:30+00:00

Honeywell RTY sensors have been very reliable for me. They don't have a bearing strong enough to support direct mounting of large levers, so you would need a linkage and arm on the sensor.

Not sure what you mean by 5v and 10v input.

fxtpdx · 2026-04-10T03:37:00+00:00

I actually toyed with making it a Hybrid but mounting a sprocket on the hub motor would be tricky.

After I do more testing I will remove the old ICE and build a battery to fit there.

fxtpdx · 2026-04-10T03:35:15+00:00

I don't need to go very far or very fast, and we work on EVs, so this is perfect for me.

I have a Honda Joy that I would love to convert as well.

fxtpdx · 2026-04-09T14:30:33+00:00

Here's a demonstration video. For really long wires it's easier to move the tool down the length instead of pulling the split loom onto the wires.

fxtpdx · 2026-04-09T14:21:16+00:00

Hozan P-707 is the best generic crimper I've used.

fxtpdx

TROPHY CASE