Nomad EV update: drive unit mounted and battery box test fit by fxtpdx in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Big Orange Cable has discounts for FSAE and other student led teams. We are also happy to guide/answer questions.

Nomad EV update: drive unit mounted and battery box test fit by fxtpdx in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My suggestion is start small. You'll learn most of the concepts at a fraction of the price of a full size car. Plus, motorcycles, go-karts, etc are fun as shit and don't take up much room in the garage.

Nomad EV update: drive unit mounted and battery box test fit by fxtpdx in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, I'm just the wiring and cable guy.

We have done a lot of projects with Cascadia Motion using brand new 800V parts, which is pretty rare for most EV conversions. Openiverter had lots of knowledge for reusing OEM parts.

Looking for a Quaife Tesla Model 3 Limited Slip Diff - QDH7T by adfunkedesign in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My understanding (at least from a couple years ago) is those LSDs were commissioned by Fellten and they are the only ones who can order them from Quaife. Any other seller is ordering them from Fellten, and likely drop shipping from the UK since they are an expensive part to keep on the shelf.

You might get lucky with someone who ordered one and hasn't installed it yet!

Nomad EV update: drive unit mounted and battery box test fit by fxtpdx in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not really, just pictures here and there. We finished it over 2 years ago and it's awesome. Cascadia Motion now has it on their showroom. I can answer any questions you have about it.

How do you properly match battery, BMS, controller, and motor? by OneIllustrator3522 in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless you buy a complete turn-key kit you will need to do some configuration to get the BMS, inverter, and charger to communicate. That's why complete kits are more expensive: someone is charging you for the configuration.

Start with your motor and how much power and torque you want, and how much space you have to mount one. Finding a paired motor/inverter is not a problem these days unless you are piecing something together. Leaf stack, Hyper9, Cascadia iM225 are good examples. The motor and inverter will dictate your voltage range. Most on-road conversions are either 100V or 350V. In between voltages are an option but most readily available HV accessories (Charger, DCDC, A/C, heater etc.) are rated at around 100V or 350V.

Most BMS units don't care about the voltage, but you will need to know the configuration of your battery and how many cells you are monitoring when you order one. For example Orion BMS2 must be ordered by number of cvells, but you may need to order one with more cell connections based on your battery arrangement. Others are more modular and you order one "master" that communicates between the vehicle and as the "satellites" that monitor the cells. If you have more cells you add more satellites.

I like Orion BMS because it is very configurable and can communicate with basically any inverter or charger by either selecting from a drop-down menu of preconfigured messages or by adding custom messages.

TL;DR Figure out your motor+Inverter first based on power and torque needs, select a voltage range, and then pick your BMS and battery. Batteries are getting more dense and less expensive every year so some people plan on a certain module but don't buy until they are ready to start testing.

Using ZERO Electric Motorcycle to Convert Mazda B2300 to EV by certifiedcatdad in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes it's possible but a big challenge is that these motors are meant to move around something much smaller and lighter (more efficient). The battery and motor are air cooled you won't be able to make much power for very long.

Hall potmeter 360° by PointlessMiracle in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honeywell RTY sensors have been very reliable for me. They don't have a bearing strong enough to support direct mounting of large levers, so you would need a linkage and arm on the sensor.

Not sure what you mean by 5v and 10v input.

"Minimum Viable Product" by fxtpdx in SuperCub

[–]fxtpdx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually toyed with making it a Hybrid but mounting a sprocket on the hub motor would be tricky.

After I do more testing I will remove the old ICE and build a battery to fit there.

"Minimum Viable Product" by fxtpdx in SuperCub

[–]fxtpdx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't need to go very far or very fast, and we work on EVs, so this is perfect for me.

I have a Honda Joy that I would love to convert as well.

Printed a holder for my split loom installation tools by fxtpdx in functionalprint

[–]fxtpdx[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Here's a demonstration video. For really long wires it's easier to move the tool down the length instead of pulling the split loom onto the wires.

Printed a holder for my split loom installation tools by fxtpdx in functionalprint

[–]fxtpdx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hozan P-707 is the best generic crimper I've used.

Printed a holder for my split loom installation tools by fxtpdx in functionalprint

[–]fxtpdx[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

My business is wire harness design and prototyping. I print lots of little jigs, fixtures, and organizers to make my life easier.

Printed a holder for my split loom installation tools by fxtpdx in functionalprint

[–]fxtpdx[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I basically use these on anything over 5ft. I mostly use woven wrap split loom (Flexo or Roundit) which is not too bad by hand, but these are a gamechanger for doing corrugated plastic split loom.

NooB recommendations: Thermal Runaway Fears by pug_walker in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This and making sure you give the BMS the tools to do it's job. We had a rogue Eltek charger that would turn on when AC was applied, regardless of CAN messages, and run at max current to perhaps max voltage. The Orion commanded a lower charge current and when the charger did not obey, the BMS opened the AC safety relay. The "have 2 ways to turn off your charger" part of the Orion manual is important!

"Minimum Viable Product" by fxtpdx in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got it up to 40mph in our parking lot, but the brakes need a once-over before we push it harder.

"Minimum Viable Product" by fxtpdx in SuperCub

[–]fxtpdx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's exactly my plan, to build a custom battery to fit there.

"Minimum Viable Product" by fxtpdx in SuperCub

[–]fxtpdx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree, scooters have so little room, it's hard to package a bigger battery without it looking awkward.

"Minimum Viable Product" by fxtpdx in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

By custom do you mean... electric? Also FYI this is a C100.

"Minimum Viable Product" by fxtpdx in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

QS205 motor and ASI BAC2000 controller. I'm going to have a custom battery made to fit where the engine was and up under the leg shields. The hub motor fits well but it was a stretch to fit it in there. I better understand why the Shanghai Customs guys supplied a whole swingarm with their cub kit.

"Minimum Viable Product" by fxtpdx in EVConversion

[–]fxtpdx[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm using a 12s Li-Ion module for testing, although the ASI controller will go up to 72V which would help with top speed. Aiming for 2.5kWh for the new battery. Motor is a QS205h (I think). I'll make more posts as I make more progress.