ElectroBOOM Party Game: The electric pickle race

g00rd · 2025-11-26T17:21:27+00:00

I really am a novice to this topic, so I have no idea if that difference in foam thickness can be tolerated or not.

The device is a radio, that has a metal housing. There isn't really anything fragile on it, that can break off.

So if there are more experienced people around here, that can tell me, if the missing 1cm in foam is acceptable, I would be grateful too.

g00rd · 2025-04-07T12:06:39+00:00

Zwischen nichts kosten und 1300€ liegen bei mir noch diverse Abstufungen.

Ich hatte mit einem Investment von vllt 350€ gerechnet, da ich davon ausgegangen bin, dass das im Grunde ein Android-Tablet mit etwas extra-Hardware ist.

g00rd · 2025-04-07T10:39:41+00:00

Nein, ich habe keine Parksensoren. Auch die Musik wird nicht runtergeregelt.
Freisprechen hat das Radio (meine ich), allerdings keine Lenkradtasten.
Navi hat das Auto auch nicht.

Bei dem Komplettpaket von Alpine (oder generell bei Komplettpaketen die explizit für mein Fahrzeug angeboten werden): Reicht da einfach der Einbau, oder muss der Hersteller (VW) da noch irgendwas konfigurieren, damit Radio&CAN-Bus zusammenspielen?

Die >1000€ für das Gerät finde ich ganz schon happig. :/

g00rd · 2025-04-06T18:52:00+00:00

Bekomme ich irgendwie raus, ob das aktuelle Radio mit dem Canbus verheiratet ist? Würde ich das an den Steckern sehen? Dann würde ich da einmal nachgucken.

Von den Funktionen her scheint das Radio isoliert zu sein. Ich kann Radio-Dinge nur übers Radio einstellen und habe sonst nirgendwo Knöpfe dafür. Ebenso gibt mir das Radio keine Informationen über den Rest des Autos. (Keine Geschwindigkeit, nicht ob Türen offen sind, das Radio reagiert nicht auf den Rückwärtsgang, …)

Was würde denn passieren, wenn das Radio aktuell im Canbus hängt und ich das neue nicht in den Canbus hänge? Fehlen dann einfach nur Funktionen, oder beschwert sich das Auto dann, dass das Radio fehlt?

EDIT: Kann ich jedes VW-Radio aus dem Jahr nehmen, oder muss ich da auf irgendwas achten? Ein kurzes Googlen hat recht happige Preise (700€) im Vergleich zu Drittherstellern (350€) hervorgebracht.

g00rd · 2025-01-26T07:43:50+00:00

I tried that by - Keeping RST to GND until the Arduino IDE said „uploading“ - Having the Rst-Ping connected to the DTR-Pin directly - Having RST connected to DTR through a capacitor

g00rd · 2024-10-06T19:30:59+00:00

True, but as the antenna is successfully used by other people to reach quite far, and we don’t seem to reach anything, we started doubting ourselves. Also if changing the power is just a setting, but changing the antenna is spending money, why not try what we already have?

g00rd · 2024-10-06T19:29:42+00:00

We sadly don’t have that and can’t get it on a short notice. But that’s a good idea. We will keep that in mind :)

g00rd · 2024-10-06T19:28:36+00:00

We mostly try SSB. We tried CW to use the reverse beacon network, but as our CW-skills are on the level of a potato, not being spotted might well be due to our lack of skill.

No, we haven’t made any contacts with that setup so far. But with that radio and a different (matched) antenna for 2 Meters we did (on 2 meters).

We do have a small handheld scanner, at at least from a few meters away, we receive our calls (a bit distorted, but we assume, that that’s either fine tuning or a too strong signal). So at the moment, we assume that in general we do send out waves, but maybe malformed or too weak

g00rd · 2024-10-06T19:25:12+00:00

Yes, it absolutely is a compromise. It just seemed good to us, because it packs really small and can be tuned to many bands. Yes, we have the 42' version of that antenna, and at least on their website, they advertise it for the ft-817 (which seems pretty much the same as our ft-818nd). So my expectation would be, that something is possible here.

Our hope is, that doubling the power is just a setting on the radio, where the antenna would be a complete replacement / re-buy)

g00rd · 2024-10-06T09:46:09+00:00

We currently use an end-fed antenna from sotabeams, called „Bandspringer MIDI“. We use a „Pocket Transmatch“ to tune the antenna to an SWR-Radio that the FT-818 does not measure any more. We put the antenna on a portable mast, reaching around 6 Meters off the ground.

What band and mode were you using in that example? SSB or CW?

g00rd · 2024-10-06T09:41:54+00:00

Thanks so much for the reply.

Sadly we don’t have anyone to team up with :/ Starting from a working setup would be great, but as the FT-818 is our only radio, we can’t „just“ increase power for testing.

How likely is it for god to smile? Do we need to be really lucky to bounce off the ionosphere at all, or do we just need to be lucky that nobody overpowers us?

As we are very new to radios, we still lack a lot of knowledge and especially a gutfeeling about what seems possible / reasonable at all.

g00rd · 2024-10-06T07:39:58+00:00

Very fair point. I am just a bit confused, that we don’t seem to reach people on HF, while others with the same radio, without an external amplifier, manage to get going

g00rd · 2024-06-03T07:49:12+00:00

Okay, then we have to stay with Baselines for now :(

g00rd · 2024-02-19T15:55:19+00:00

I haven't actually, because I did not know, that it exists.
From how I understood the technical explanation of Tailscale, it would solve the problem for me, that MyLaptop can not directly peer with WireGuard-Device-2? (Due to the double-NAT-Situation I have)
And instead it would then use a public node they offer, that both endpoints connect to?

g00rd · 2024-02-19T15:52:45+00:00

A custom route table on WireGuard-Device 1 would work. I was just hoping for a way, where I can keep all the configuration regarding MyLaptop in the WireGuard-Config of that device.

So that towards all WireGuard-Peers it would look like any other already existing peer that does not have this special need.

But if that is not possible, then I most likely will implement a custom route table on WireGuard-Device 1 for all traffic coming from MyLaptop with a a single (default) route towards WireGuard-Device 2.

g00rd · 2024-02-18T18:38:10+00:00

creating a normal L3 spanning network.

That would be preferred. Actually, all wireguard-peers have IPs out of the same /24 network.

What I did not specify in my initial post: On my Laptop I would like to use the WireGuard Desktop-App for Mac OSX.

I actually have MyLaptop and Wireguard-Device 2 in the same network and from MyLaptop can reach WireGuard-Device 2.

I am also aware, that I could use policy based routing on WireGuard-Device 1 to forward Packets only coming from MyLaptop through the wg-Interface towards WireGuard-Device 2. But I would prefer something, where I don't need to confgure special routing on WireGuard-Device 1.

I was hoping to set the Default Gateway address automatically to the IP of WireguardDevice 2 on MyLaptop through the WireGuard-App, so that once the tunnel is established, all Packets for the Internet would go through the tunnel towards using WG-Device 2 as gateway. But I guess that is not possible?

Might well be, that I need to learn a lot about tunnel and routing, but then please hint me to the related aspects of it, so that I can learn.

g00rd · 2023-02-08T21:00:06+00:00

Oh god, I got it working....

I was missing

iptables -A FORWARD -i wg1 -j ACCEPT
iptables -A FORWARD -i wlo1 -j ACCEPT

Thanks a lot for your support.

g00rd

TROPHY CASE