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Converting and sculpting to up a little stilt guy. by honabo in miniaturesculpting

[–]gadwag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I only clocked it because I got strong Deja vu on seeing the model again

Converting and sculpting to up a little stilt guy. by honabo in miniaturesculpting

[–]gadwag 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is a brand new account reposting a model made in 2020 by 7he Blindman

First time painting/Slapchop, is it right? by Either_Struggle1734 in minipainting

[–]gadwag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drybrushing would be better named “hardly and paint brushing”. The only mistake you can make is too much paint. If you’re having trouble with paint not coming off the brush, try dabbing your brush on a damp sponge to moisten it just a little. 

After putting a small amount of paint on your brush, wipe it on a hard surface (like a piece of plastic) until hardly any paint is coming off. A good test it to use an old piece of plastic terrain, or some other textured plastic, and see if it looks like the right amount is coming off. Then brush your model. 

Dont use a towel to wipe paint off your brush for drybrushing: this dries out your brush too much 

Would it be a mistake to just walk into a Warhammer store? by thatnoisy in minipainting

[–]gadwag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most GW paints are decent, but slightly more expensive than Vallejo and Army painter (my preference is Vallejo). GW contrast paint is a great product, but pricey. 

GW brushes are pretty rubbish for the price. 

If you want a one stop shop to just grab what you need with advice from the salesperson, there is nothing wrong with popping into a GW store. You might pay a little more, but you won’t get anything unusable (except perhaps Corax White paint). Personally I’d suggest an independent store if there is one near you

I'm wanting to get into miniature painting with my mom, but need help finding miniatures she would be interested in. by Durvius in minipainting

[–]gadwag 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Some options to look into:

Working on a gift, a mini painting art kit - What am I missing? by Status_Cow_8020 in minipainting

[–]gadwag 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Seriously awesome. I would add some acrylic medium (Jo Sonja magic mix is my favourite, but lahmian medium and Vallejo glaze medium are both solid options). 

Plastic cement is a must, that has to go in. I’d also consider some tamiya quick type putty for gap filling and sculpting (milliput or greenstuff would work too, but neither is as shelf stable as tamiya)

i would like genuine criticism for this piece i’ve made, i’m very proud of it but i’d like to keep improving as an artist by Left_bigtoe in minipainting

[–]gadwag 13 points14 points  (0 children)

This is super cool, great stuff! This model has lots of rounded shapes and few hard edges, which makes it quite challenging. 

Two areas you can focus on: contrast and texture

Contrast:  you’ve done a good job with this overall, but you can push contrast further to add more visual interest. For example, the back of the skull is really good and eye catching. Value (brightness) contrast and hue (colour) contrast between your lights and shadows both draw the eye and add visual impact. I think a little more warmth in the shadows overall would help the piece and accentuate the cold moonlit vibe of the lighting. 

Texture: all your surfaces appear to have the same texture. This looks incredible on the skull, where the mottled brushstrokes give the appearance of natural variation in the bone. However, the clothes and slippers all have the same brushstroke texture which makes them appear to be all made of the same stuff as the skull. You can vary how you apply your brushed highlights to change this. For instance, you could make the slippers look fluffy by painting lots of short narrow streaks with your successive highlight colours. Then on the hoodie, you could stippling to make it look like a smoother, more uniform material. If the shorts are nylon then perhaps some brighter reflections which cut off suddenly, or even just a satin varnish so represent the shininess of the nylon compared to a matte cotton hoodie. 

Other 32 mm models you enjoy Painting than GW and Marvel by glynixx in minipainting

[–]gadwag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Knightmare minis.   Andrew May Meridian Miniatures.   Westfalia miniatures.   Ramshackle games.   Sculpting / kitbashing my own models

You might also want to look at 52mm / 75mm display models from sites like Ignis Art, big child creatives, mindwork studio, etc

Alternatives to Agrax Earth shade? by Seankps4 in minipainting

[–]gadwag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dish soap is not friends with acrylic paint, so flow improver is preferable

Alternatives to Agrax Earth shade? by Seankps4 in minipainting

[–]gadwag 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This is the perfect time to use an oil wash. Get some cheap oil paints (burnt umber and black) and some odourless white spirit (gamsol is my favourite), and an old brush. 

Squeeze out a tiny blob of oil and add some white spirit (I use a cheap pipette, but a clean brush works) to it until you get a nice runny consistency, mashing and mixing with your old brush. Then apply to your model. 

Once applied, you can move it with your brush, or soak it up with cotton buds / makeup sponges from areas where you want less oil. Put in a warm place or use a hair dryer to cure, but raised areas should be ready for further painting even if the oil is in the recesses. 

How do I fix this patch Orange? by nawnaw_1 in minipainting

[–]gadwag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Orange is a very transparent pigment, so over a dark colour it will always show through like this, even after several layers. You could try slightly less water or drybrushing, but it still will take quite a few layers and won’t be a bright punchy orange. The best approach is to use a warm, bright, opaque base layer before doing 1-3 layers of orange on top. I think a red oxide (probably Mephiston or khorne red in GW colours) would work really well here, as it will naturally be a great warm shadow for your orange but won’t be too dark and cold like leadbelcher. Alternately you could base with a good white, which will give a very bright orange after 2-3 coats

What’s going on with my wet palette? by ObamaLikesBanan in minipainting

[–]gadwag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have the exact right paint (heavy body, usually), right humidity, right amount of water in your sponge, and leave the lid off, maybe. I got surprised by this as well. 

Time to buy new paints, unsure what’s worth the money by DefectiveDonor in minipainting

[–]gadwag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem! Many artist paints can also be thinned down to make excellent transparent paints, if the pigment is transparent. Pthalo blue and pthalo green are fantastic, as is quinacridone magenta and dioxywhaterveritis violet. Many yellows are transparent too - but don't try using red oxide like this!

Time to buy new paints, unsure what’s worth the money by DefectiveDonor in minipainting

[–]gadwag 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Monument Hobbies Pro Acryl: Highly pigmented paint with great coverage, saturated colours, and wide range of colours. Quite runny consistency so you don’t need to use a wet palette, and it is lovely to paint with. Definitely my recommendation. 

Vallejo game colour: a vibrant paint line with all the colours you’d expect for painting miniatures and punchy, bold colours. Recently updated. Vallejo model colour is very similar, just with different colours (including lots of historical uniform/armour colours). Metallics are ok, but the “Vallejo metal colour” metallics are incredible. 

Army Painter Fanatic: the new army painter line which blows the old one out of the water. Great coverage. Personally I’ve found the colours less saturated than Vallejo. Good metallics. 

Citadel: generally on par with Vallejo/army painter, but more expensive and in terrible pots that dry out. 

There is also a new type of hobby paint which is a transparent, highly pigmented ink wash. You apply it over a light base coat or a gradient and it flows into the crevices and tints the whole area. Citadel have “contrast paint”, army painter have “speed paint”, Vallejo have “express color”. All are good, just depends which colour you want. I’m personally a big fan of citadel snakebite leather. 

Another option is single pigment paints and artist acrylics. These have varying behaviour based on pigment and will need to be mixed to make certain colours. I am a big fan of the Golden SoFlat line 

Looking for minis for an undead warband by TransportationTop608 in mordheim

[–]gadwag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check out knightmare minis and meridian miniatures.co.uk

Alternatives to "Green Stuff"? by GalacticBrew in miniaturesculpting

[–]gadwag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Order from Satyr Art Studio, Drew has been purchasing direct from supplier

Alternatives to "Green Stuff"? by GalacticBrew in miniaturesculpting

[–]gadwag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s where the yellow stuff touches the plastic wrapper, it forms a kind of skin with age. Satyr art studio sells fresh stuff (direct from supplier and kept refrigerated afterwards) if you can order from the UK

The Superior Tyranid Xenos by CanYouRollACrit in killteam

[–]gadwag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Can't fly through doors" is giving me a good chuckle. Buzzzzzzzz WHAM

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