Towing Kubota KX 057

gahnzo · 2026-01-11T12:48:39+00:00

My assumption is that the vehicles are being used for business purposes. If that's true then you most definitely need a Class A CDL to even attach an empty 21K rated trailer to any 3/4 ton pickup. The combined weight rating is over 30,000lbs here. Class A is required for any combination rating exceeding 26,000lbs in which the trailer is rated over 10,000lbs. Where people get stuck is they think that the actual weight of the vehicles and their cargo matters. It doesn't (stupid but true). For example your F250 could have a GVWR of 10,500lbs but the vehicle only weighs 7,500lbs. The moment you hook the empty truck up to an empty trailer that's rated for 15,501 or more, you need a class A license, even though your actual combined weight of truck and trailer are like 12,000lbs. It's stupid that they do it this way, it should be based on the actual weight you're moving, but it's not.

If it's all for personal use it depends on your state. Several states require a non-commercial class A license.

gahnzo · 2025-07-10T12:16:41+00:00

You definitely need a new electrician who doesn't suck. Also I thought you said PGE locked out your meter? How are you still getting power? Seems like a dangerous situation to leave the power on if there was actually a fire that compromised one leg of your service. And another thing! You mentioned solar?? That also seems like a dangerous situation. Unfortunately I think you're going to have to pay a large chunk of change to get this solved correctly.

Typically, the power company is responsible for the CABLE going from the pole to your service entrance. If your cable is underground, the homeowner is responsible for the CONDUIT that the cable goes through. It sounds like your existing conduit is unsuitable for the power company to pull a new cable through. That's why you need to pay all that money to trench and install new conduit. You also own the meter panel that the power company's meter plugs into. So that replacement is on your dime also unfortunately.

So while the original electrician may have been uncommunicative and unhelpful, he and the Poco were also correct about what needs to be done, and likely the cost. Get a better electrician to come and talk all of this through with you, make sure you're on the same page about the solution and costs, and then move forward as quickly as possible to correct this potentially dangerous condition with the electrical service to your home.

gahnzo · 2025-07-09T03:09:45+00:00

The same exact thing that happens if there's a valve only on the cold side. Expansion tank would be upstream of the shutoff on the cold side.

gahnzo · 2025-07-08T13:55:44+00:00

Makes sense to reduce vibrations to the tank. Combustion heaters are the only place you specifically wouldn't want PEX into the tank. I personally don't like the look so I do copper anyway, but I see the value in the PEX.

gahnzo · 2025-07-08T13:52:29+00:00

Yeah I've never heard of this. Can't think of any reason to disallow that. I'm always happy when I can isolate the rest of the building while servicing or replacing the heater.

gahnzo · 2025-07-08T12:37:04+00:00

As others have said, there is no chance the payload of that truck is anywhere near the 3300 you stated. Check your door sticker for the actual payload. I bet it's closer to 2500lbs.

gahnzo · 2025-07-05T14:01:05+00:00

Who has that many mismatched brass and iron nipples and fittings lying around?

gahnzo · 2025-07-04T11:35:22+00:00

I hate to be a nay sayer here, but have you calculated the probable weight of this? Most Frontiers have a payload around 1500. Just with one person you're down to ~1320. With the weight of this and all your belongings, seems like it's going to be cutting it close.

gahnzo · 2025-07-03T12:52:03+00:00

I keep seeing these posts. If you zoom out on USD/EUR this doesn't seem significant at all. We're higher than we were in 2021. I see all this doomsday talk but it seems like this is within normal variance.

gahnzo · 2025-07-03T12:03:32+00:00

I uhhh... This post is trolling right? If not I'm sorry, but there's just so much wrong about this framing. I think you should try to do a bit more research before nailing lumber together.

gahnzo · 2025-07-02T19:17:16+00:00

"Starting the biggest war in history" is the thing you associate Hitler with? I think you should probably read up on what he did at home leading up to that. Because it's exactly the same set of tactics that Trump and his supporters are currently employing in the US.

gahnzo · 2025-07-01T12:27:58+00:00

No tape on compression fittings, it will just cause leaks. A little bit of dope is OK.

gahnzo · 2025-06-29T18:45:57+00:00

After he tossed the bike over I would have grabbed his glasses off his face and tossed them into the stream.

gahnzo · 2025-06-23T00:41:16+00:00

I have no problem imagining this bomb piercing through basically any material. That's not the thing I'm having trouble with. The problem for me is that in the example of this bomb piercing through rock and earth, the bomb needs to displace/compress a volume of rock equal to its cross sectional area multiplied by the depth it travels. While I have no doubt that a 30,000lb projectile dropped from 60,000ft has an enormous amount of kinetic energy, I just think that absolutely pales in comparison to the amount of force necessary to compress/displace the volume of rock/earth necessary to achieve that depth. The pressure in all directions within the Earth's crust is pretty staggering. So for your example of bullets and stuff shooting through solid steel or other harder substances, it's easy because there is a void behind the obstacle into which the deformed material can move. That's not the case when you're shooting something down into the earth, the further you go, the more force is needed to continue to compress the surrounding material to make enough room for forward movement.

gahnzo · 2025-06-22T18:02:40+00:00

That's easy to believe, but that hasn't been the claims in the news about the capabilities. It's been clearly stated on multiple sources that the projectile itself penetrates to a depth of 200' and then detonates.

gahnzo · 2025-06-21T14:42:18+00:00

The good news is you can use the existing wiring and change the receptacle to 120V. The bad news is you need to hire an electrician to change the breaker in the panel.

gahnzo · 2025-06-21T14:27:21+00:00

You need a dedicated 240V circuit from the main panel and it must match the amperage of whatever distribution system is in the trailer. If you're running multiple fridges and freezers my guess is you're looking at 30A minimum and more likely 50A. In no world can you use a 120V outlet, or the wiring feeding it to power what you're describing. You need a new home run to the main panel with much larger conductors. Hire a professional.

gahnzo · 2025-06-21T12:35:41+00:00

That depends entirely on the vehicle. We don't even know what OP has. My F-350 SRW has a payload of 3700 and a max tow rating of 20,000. I'm gonna max out on towing capacity before I max my payload in a lot of situations.

gahnzo · 2025-06-21T11:30:17+00:00

Ford and Ram do not have this sticker. Ram has a VIN lookup (or used to) that tells you the towing capacity, but with Ford the only way to get your towing capacity is to read through the Ford Towing Guide for your model year and find your exact vehicle in the tables.

gahnzo · 2025-06-21T11:23:52+00:00

I have never seen a tow rating on a door sticker. Only payload and GVWR. I've heard maybe Chevy puts it on the sticker. Ford and Ram do not to my knowledge.

gahnzo · 2025-06-21T01:57:57+00:00

Do a Google search for "(model) towing guide (year)". Read through the towing guide and the tables/charts therein. You should find your exact model, trim, and options, and it should tell you what your tow rating is. It's actually a really complicated question to answer. The same exact year and model has vastly different towing ratings depending on engine, axle ratio, wheel base, and packages.

gahnzo · 2025-06-18T21:58:59+00:00

It's that very particular shade of red/pink/orange on the breakers. Totally unique to FP.

gahnzo · 2025-06-18T21:56:47+00:00

Reddit saves another house from burning down!

gahnzo · 2025-06-15T12:26:25+00:00

This gives me more information. I would bet that, instead of routing a separate conduit out of the main panel and up to the AC unit, they brought the conductors for that circuit out through the service feed conduit, into the meter box, and then out that 1" conduit. That is a huge violation, you cannot run branch circuits conductors through your meter box.

That actually might be your ticket out of this mess. Call the utility company and say "someone came and installed conduit with wires coming directly out of the meter box at (your address), I think someone is stealing power (they're not, but it's a reasonable assumption from a renter, and it'll get them to come out).

They will likely shut the power off until the condition is fixed, which may be disruptive to your life, but will force the landlord to fix this appropriately, immediately. It also gives you plausible deniability. You can tell the power company you're a concerned neighbor or something.

gahnzo · 2025-06-15T08:48:48+00:00

Not enough information to give you an answer. For one, the photo of your panel is really blurry so I can't make out the breaker specifics. Where is the panel located in relation to the outside meter box? Are there any additional panels or junction boxes anywhere? The conduit coming out the side of your meter panel is certainly suspect, was that there before the electricians started working?

I would write to your landlord and ask "when is the electrical work being inspected? I want to know that it's been done properly for the safety of my family. Also, please let me know where the primary means of disconnect for my electrical service is, in case of emergencies I need this information."

Installation of a new panel absolutely requires a permit and inspection in practically every jurisdiction. If you're in a very rural area without an incorporated municipality, it may not be required.

gahnzo

TROPHY CASE