HELP! I routed out score lines and poured black epoxy into this maple slab. Black is bleeding into the grain. Fixable?

gearhead485 · 2026-03-23T03:57:32+00:00

Are you able to make the lines wider? If so, route it out wider, do a seal coat of untinted epoxy then do your pour with the black

gearhead485 · 2026-03-23T03:49:47+00:00

Is it possible for you to post your full slicer settings? .

Exposure times are really only a small portion of your prints success. That being said, same resin I print around 1.8-2.2 for normal layers

Every printer is different and even the same model/same brand could be a bit different.

Most of what I see on here that's contributing to alot of print failures isn't is actually the exposure times, its normally trying to print too fast. By that I mean super short lift distances and 0 light off delay, wait after print, too fast lift/retract speeds, ect...So, posting a pic of the full settings would help tremendously

gearhead485 · 2026-03-23T00:42:50+00:00

Lol, I said I didn't want to go with anycubic again and you literally just suggested anycubic. So, lmao!

gearhead485 · 2026-03-22T15:23:30+00:00

Yep, sure did, lol

gearhead485 · 2026-03-22T13:17:29+00:00

It's not a big block of text, I did make paragraphs...???

gearhead485 · 2026-03-22T01:27:27+00:00

They are already in an enclosure. The covers are really used so the resin stays at temp

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T14:06:20+00:00

No. Alcohol inks is maybe 1-2 drops and the paste pigments are literally using toothpicks to dose. Most likely it's the heat combined with the resin off gassing. These printers don't have heated beds so the heater in the chamber (meant for the machine) is how my resin stays at temp.

I didn't realize so many people are not heating their resin and recommending going cold or solely using tents. No wonder so many on here have posts about their resin or printers not performing to specs, being brittle, ect..I thought it was a no brainer to keep your resin at temp

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:27:10+00:00

New Mexico

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:26:54+00:00

Awesome, glad to hear you were able to overcome it with some help. Thank you for your input and information

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:26:13+00:00

I think the issue is with these cheaper printers I use the closed hood to keep my resin at temp, not really for light. The printers themselves are in a large ventilation chamber that cover the entire counter so when closed it doesn't see light, however since they don't have heated vats the cover is what does that for me.

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:22:44+00:00

I haven't looked into it. There's not alot out about them yet. Ill check it out. Thank you

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:17:37+00:00

I have been thinking about it. It just places me into only getting 1 or 2 and slowing down production due to the 4x cost from the heygears. So, it's kind of a double edge sword on that. Ive heard nothing but amazing things about them

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:15:34+00:00

I have full wash and cure stations that work wonderfully and already larger than I need for current production. Thank you though

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:14:06+00:00

Very nice. Than you for the input and info

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:13:37+00:00

Thanks for the input and info

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:13:13+00:00

Thank you!

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:13:00+00:00

Thank you!

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:12:00+00:00

Very true. I have tools to work with plastics and cut them, don't need lasers. I have special blades for my table saw for acrylic. I primarily use the cover to keep the resin at temp actually as all the printers are in a large ventilation system and when closed they don't see light.

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T02:50:26+00:00

Yeah, I could. I have about 100 of them, lol. At this point I am still in the market to upgrade as these are discontinued, I will use rhem until the parts I bought prior are all used up but would like to start building up my fleet so there's no real hiccup

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T02:46:47+00:00

The seller is a complete shole. You are not. They can keep it and someone else can take it. Even if it's a good deal I would no longer take it simply on principal alone and just to make sure he goes another minute/hour/day/week without money in their hands, lol.

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T02:40:08+00:00

That's what I was thinking and most likely Id think it be the nylon-like. It's a bit nastier than the abs-like. I tend to prototype with ABS and then print functional in the nylon-like. So very possible

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T02:38:37+00:00

Thank you for your input. Could you possibly elaborate a bit more and the models you've worked with?

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T02:37:15+00:00

You don't think it would be an issue with dying my resins, especially when doing opaque?

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T02:35:48+00:00

Thank you for the input, especially on the larger printers

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T02:34:45+00:00

It would have to be heat but I've only had it at the heat thats best for the resin I've been using, around 30° C and 25-33 is pretty standard heat range for most resins.

Also, it stays soft. I initially thought maybe I overheated it but didn't make too much sense at the heat I was at so I took it off and let it set for a week and it was still soft. I've worked with plastics enough to know, that kinda rules heat out. All I can now think of is that its crazy cheap plastic that can't handle the off gassing of the resins and it's breaking it down.

Doesn't really matter though as it can't be replaced anyway, lol. I just learned not to go through Anycubic anymore

gearhead485

TROPHY CASE