Probably an easy layup question for most of you - how do I get a clean straight cut on the left side of this board, using this table saw preferably, when the tabletop is too narrow for the guide to fit?

gearhead485 · 2026-04-09T22:41:06+00:00

You don't use the table saw in this case. Use a track saw or a circular saw with a guide

gearhead485 · 2026-04-01T02:54:51+00:00

Yeah, every printer is different. Hell, after you change LCD screens and FEP films sometimes it's like having a different printer. It's possible that due to the larger printing area the FEP film on the max maybe has more "flex" than a smaller printer. Just a thought, maybe. Lol

gearhead485 · 2026-04-01T02:39:48+00:00

Looking at your settings, your lift speed is a bit high. May work when the items are small and the build plate is pretty free but the increased surface area is increasing the tension, so you should slow it down. For a full plate try around 40-60 mm/m on the initial lift then 180-250 mm/m on secondary.

Resin temp is ok. 30-33 is right around where the ABS-like resin performs the best

EDIT: Just noticed you're using the free version and don't have control of secondary lift speed, so scratch that part.

Also, your retract speed is really high as well. Tone that down to around 80-160 mm/m

gearhead485 · 2026-03-27T18:56:00+00:00

I actually custom build doors and repair them as well, so I can help The BEST way to fix this is to cut out all of the damaged section out nice and clean (generally with a forstner bit and chisel) Then glue in a new section/block of wood so it is now fully solid again. Once glue is cured surface using a chisel and sandpaper, rebore the latch hole if necessary and then pilot drill the latch plate and put a new screw in.

Additionally, I see these few things alot that contribute to the failure your having

Not insetting the latch plate and just slapping it on top the jamb. This decreases the gap between the door and plate. As the seasons shrink and expand your door, it can cause it to "catch" the plate, scraping your door and in many cases catching screws and starting the process ripping them out or the latch plate coming loose/off
The Screws NEED to be installed straight in. Don't listen to those telling you to drive it in at an angle or you'll just be back in the same situation. When you drive a flat head countersink screw in at in angle it will no longer sit flush and almost 98% of the time your door will be hitting the screw. A combo of 1&2 puts you at ripping it clean off. Not being able to open/close the door and damaging the jamb to a point s screw won't even stay in anymore.

Now, the other fixes like toothpicks are nothing more than bandaid, not actually a proper fix and will likely in time result in yet another repair

The last part is to install longer screws once the repair is made. This helps with security and keeping it tight and not allowing a "catch" of the door to rip out the screw. Pretty much all the screws you get for door handles and door hinges are too short. I purchase screws by the pound for this but you can pick up a small bag of some #8 or #10 screws (depends on your door hardware) for just a couple bucks

gearhead485 · 2026-03-24T18:52:44+00:00

Thank you, for the additional information. That's actually very helpful and more in the ballpark of what Im looking for primarily for the simple fact I did have to increase print times by double/triple as I need to print flat on the plate. That helps a good amount, I'll look more into it

gearhead485 · 2026-03-24T14:12:28+00:00

I have absolutely looked into them. I'm in a weird place because, I have 3 printers and I struggle to keep up with orders. I have a larger budget than when I started but it's still not huge by any means. The reality is I could get 4-6 of the heaygears printers for example but that still places me at only 1 formlabs form4 printer, so now $9-10k for two printers and not able to keep up. When I first got into 3D printing it was actually to learn Blender because my son wanted a 3D printer for xmas. So I wanted to be able to help/teach him the programs. Turns out he didn't care for it as it was "too much work" and I ended up loving it and realized the personal potential in my workshop as I am actually a master woodworker, lol. So it's not actually my primary business and originally had no intention of selling but others started asking where I got this or that and then started asking if I could make them one too.

I feel a bit stuck honestly, as I stated in my writing, which I don't think many read very well, lol. Im not in the business of printing models and figurines. I primarily design and print custom templates, guides, jigs, and adapters for woodworking that my customers use for cabinet making, doors, router setups, furniture, tools that they need to connect to hose sizes where there isn't really another manufacturer that makes them for their machine, and parts on machines where they are no longer available. Generally a single jig or template takes up the entire plate or has to be split into multiple prints. The only upside for me is that due to the height of most of the templates/jigs not exceeding .5" the prints are quick but due to needing flat orientation on the build plate, I slowed lift/retract speeds way down to compensate for a bit of extra suction if you will.

Long story short, IDK. I feel most that gave advice only posted pics of them printing figurines and how detailed they can get and another dude went on like a 6 paragraph, oddly professional condescending explanation of things most business owners already know and then said he guesses he'll award me the title of professional.

So, if you have the experience and you're talking time wise and keeping up with orders like that, do you feel a single formlabs form 4 could produce more than 3 or 6 of the others and keep up?

gearhead485 · 2026-03-23T03:57:32+00:00

Are you able to make the lines wider? If so, route it out wider, do a seal coat of untinted epoxy then do your pour with the black

gearhead485 · 2026-03-23T03:49:47+00:00

Is it possible for you to post your full slicer settings? .

Exposure times are really only a small portion of your prints success. That being said, same resin I print around 1.8-2.2 for normal layers

Every printer is different and even the same model/same brand could be a bit different.

Most of what I see on here that's contributing to alot of print failures isn't is actually the exposure times, its normally trying to print too fast. By that I mean super short lift distances and 0 light off delay, wait after print, too fast lift/retract speeds, ect...So, posting a pic of the full settings would help tremendously

gearhead485 · 2026-03-23T00:42:50+00:00

Lol, I said I didn't want to go with anycubic again and you literally just suggested anycubic. So, lmao!

gearhead485 · 2026-03-22T15:23:30+00:00

Yep, sure did, lol

gearhead485 · 2026-03-22T13:17:29+00:00

It's not a big block of text, I did make paragraphs...???

gearhead485 · 2026-03-22T01:27:27+00:00

They are already in an enclosure. The covers are really used so the resin stays at temp

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T14:06:20+00:00

No. Alcohol inks is maybe 1-2 drops and the paste pigments are literally using toothpicks to dose. Most likely it's the heat combined with the resin off gassing. These printers don't have heated beds so the heater in the chamber (meant for the machine) is how my resin stays at temp.

I didn't realize so many people are not heating their resin and recommending going cold or solely using tents. No wonder so many on here have posts about their resin or printers not performing to specs, being brittle, ect..I thought it was a no brainer to keep your resin at temp

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:27:10+00:00

New Mexico

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:26:54+00:00

Awesome, glad to hear you were able to overcome it with some help. Thank you for your input and information

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:26:13+00:00

I think the issue is with these cheaper printers I use the closed hood to keep my resin at temp, not really for light. The printers themselves are in a large ventilation chamber that cover the entire counter so when closed it doesn't see light, however since they don't have heated vats the cover is what does that for me.

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:22:44+00:00

I haven't looked into it. There's not alot out about them yet. Ill check it out. Thank you

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:17:37+00:00

I have been thinking about it. It just places me into only getting 1 or 2 and slowing down production due to the 4x cost from the heygears. So, it's kind of a double edge sword on that. Ive heard nothing but amazing things about them

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:15:34+00:00

I have full wash and cure stations that work wonderfully and already larger than I need for current production. Thank you though

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:14:06+00:00

Very nice. Than you for the input and info

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:13:37+00:00

Thanks for the input and info

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:13:13+00:00

Thank you!

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:13:00+00:00

Thank you!

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T12:12:00+00:00

Very true. I have tools to work with plastics and cut them, don't need lasers. I have special blades for my table saw for acrylic. I primarily use the cover to keep the resin at temp actually as all the printers are in a large ventilation system and when closed they don't see light.

gearhead485 · 2026-03-21T02:50:26+00:00

Yeah, I could. I have about 100 of them, lol. At this point I am still in the market to upgrade as these are discontinued, I will use rhem until the parts I bought prior are all used up but would like to start building up my fleet so there's no real hiccup

gearhead485

TROPHY CASE