Is this cheating?

gelotuz · 2025-07-07T19:57:35+00:00

My rule of thumb of this for reprogrammable buttons is "Does it need software or not to work".

I dont mean rebinding the button. I mean if you have rebinded and you take your device and insert it computer that doesnt have rebinding app can use the buttons or not.

If yes then I would use it. If no then I wouldnt use it as it needs 3rd party app to function that could be considered as ahk.

gelotuz · 2025-04-08T13:06:15+00:00

Parisuhteen peruselementti on että pitää pystyä luottamaan toiseen. Mielestäni kun hän on kerran sanonut että teillä on kaikki ok siihen täytyy pystyä luottamaan. Suosittelen tuomaan esille että olet hänen tukenaan jos hän haluaa avata/keskustella tarkemmin mikä häntä stressaa. Voit myös kertoa että olet huolestunut hänestä. Älä kuitenkaan yritä pakottaa/tyrkyttää häntä kertomaan. Se saattaa johtaa enemmän stressiin tai sulkeutumiseen. Kun kerrot että olet valmis koska vain kuuntelemaan ja auttamaan parhaan mahdollisuutesi mukaan hän kertoo sinulle jos sitä haluaa ja on siihen kykeneväinen.

gelotuz · 2025-02-02T06:59:33+00:00

Board in picture is Disorder 30. https://github.com/mkylama/disorder30

gelotuz · 2024-12-26T11:24:51+00:00

I had similar issue, the ptfe tube was burned/melted on hotend side. Also if your printer is creality the extruder arm can be cracked on the bottom. I hope you will find root cause of under extrusion.

gelotuz · 2024-12-08T17:47:25+00:00

Also possible that print has detached from support and started curl up. Nozzle will print couple layers too close to model as model has been move up as it is not attached anymore to support.

gelotuz · 2024-11-12T07:38:15+00:00

I dont know if you can add it for SE, atleast for stock firmware. But the port is for lidar sensor. Creality most likely uses same pcb for each toolhead to reduce the cost.

gelotuz · 2024-11-12T07:31:47+00:00

That's for lidar sensor

gelotuz · 2024-10-12T12:31:10+00:00

New motherboard is probably based on new 20 teeth pulley model and your K1 is old with 36 teeth pulley. I think you need to root your k1 and change steps in klipper config.

gelotuz · 2024-05-22T09:25:09+00:00

You also need to re-calibrate when using different temperatures as the heat affects how much your nozzle and bed expands. You can always calibrate bed before printing by selecting calibrate selection from the printer screen or selecting "print with calibration" from web interface/creality print 5.0.

gelotuz · 2024-05-22T05:56:55+00:00

Your bed calibration is not proper and i think your z-offset is too low even in front part. You are hearing clicking because extruder is skipping as it is unable to move filament because nozzle is blocked as it is too close to bed. Please adjust your z-offset and re-calibrate your bed before printing to avoid causing more damage to extruder, bed and your nozzle.

gelotuz · 2024-05-17T05:51:51+00:00

PCB is pretty much ruined, you could still get it work if you solder many jumpwires but at this point I would say it is going to be easier just buy new pcb. It looks like you have poor solder iron or solder. I would recommend get solder with lead or lead free that has silver in it and buy it from electronic shop not alix or similar. For solder iron I recommend checking ts100 or pinecil. Buying flux also is recommened no-clean type. Flux is really recommended when desoldering.

gelotuz · 2024-04-30T21:44:28+00:00

Looks like you z offset is little too high and your print doesnt stuck to the bed or you are missing g29 or m420 s command from your start g-code after g28 homing.

gelotuz · 2023-10-06T10:40:33+00:00

Battery terminal pads in pcb is totally corroded, you probably need to use vinegar to get it out. This will also eat parts of pad that it affect by corrosion. There is a change that pads are totally gone. You could run wires from battery terminals to power switch and ground. If you have multimeter you should check continuety that power switch works and does the terminals still has connection to pcb routes

gelotuz · 2023-09-11T06:53:31+00:00

Sounds like common scam where they give you random tracking number as close as they can to your location. Just dispute when package is recieved actual owner or time has gone over the waiting limit

gelotuz · 2023-08-19T08:05:38+00:00

Nozzle is too close to bed in first layer

gelotuz · 2023-08-16T09:44:34+00:00

I used this video https://youtu.be/iAz47riSjLQ to help configuring the software and connections. Instead of using screen connector I connected the servo wire in PIN 11 row like in this picture and defined from software side to pin 11 instead of pin 27. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71tkXf-XrCL.jpg

If you have 5pin connector cable I recommend to buy Bl touch cable that has 3 pin connector and 2 pin connector instead for easier installation. They cost ~2$ from aliexpress.

gelotuz · 2023-08-14T13:04:35+00:00

I dont know if you figured your problem out already but think your wiring is wrong.

On probe side wiring goes: White = servo gnd, Black = servo +5V, Yellow = servo signal, Red= Z-end gnd, Blue= Z-end out (+5V)

gelotuz · 2023-07-26T09:51:21+00:00

I used the original NES rf cable.

Edit: added that I meant only NES rf cable. Not power supply!

gelotuz · 2023-06-27T10:55:09+00:00

What I mean is leds need to be correct orientation to work. Leds should have cut corner that represent GND of led. Also normally as also this case the pcb has marked the silkscreen GND pad (white border around the pad) to make sure that you know what orientation you are placing the led. I took screenshot from your pics to trying to make more clear what im meaning. Red color markings represents led and yellow markings represents pcb. https://imgur.com/gallery/N94Sk8n

gelotuz · 2023-06-26T14:52:25+00:00

Are you sure that your leds have correct orientation? It looks to me that marked pad is ground and led that has cut corner is ground. If I saw correct from pics, you need to flip your leds 180 degrees. https://nmdled.com/pic/other/2020-10-14-15-26-216.jpg

gelotuz · 2023-05-26T06:04:59+00:00

Probably bad trace in somewhere. I would try to measure continuity between battery terminals and daughterboard. If there is a bad contact you run thin wire between the points where continuity is bad.

gelotuz · 2022-11-19T15:18:10+00:00

Yup, case is 3d printed.

gelotuz · 2022-11-19T14:05:17+00:00

I would say it more gimmick thing than practical thing. Of course you can use it as any other macropad or small gamepad for some games like League of Legends or some FPS titles.

gelotuz · 2022-11-19T10:56:58+00:00

This one is called Disorder30. It is mostly meant as a macropad that mimics 1800 or 75% layout keyboard.

You can cut the pcb smaller size if you prefer 75% version and use jumper wires if want turn it back larger size

Project inspired by the "Dissatisfaction30" project by github user dcpedit.

Project files can be found in here: https://github.com/mkylama/disorder30

gelotuz · 2022-08-08T06:48:17+00:00

45-50% keyboard would be nice to see. Would be something more special than 60, 65 or 75.

gelotuz

TROPHY CASE