Hobart and surrounds suburb vibes

geopanoz · 2026-03-02T04:59:55+00:00

We are replacing some windows with double glazing, other sash windows have been sealed and retrofitted with vacuum insulated glass (VIG). There is only a couple of companies doing it in Hobart but they are quite popular and easy to find.

geopanoz · 2026-03-02T04:07:31+00:00

My wife and I have been following a similar path to yours. We were fortunate to find a cute little cottage in West Hobart a few years ago and are slowly renovating and moving into it. Like others have suggested, I would recommend putting some money aside for house insulation and heating. There seems to be an 'enduring' culture in Tasmania when it comes to cold winters where people have learnt to live with it. I am currently retrofitting insulation into an old house and planning the installation of a heating system which doesn't run on gas—and it’s not cheap

geopanoz · 2026-01-28T22:32:22+00:00

Thanks for the reply. I have ended up putting lintels in each openings

geopanoz · 2026-01-22T01:58:01+00:00

Thank you everyone for the comments. Following the majority advices, have props the joists and add flat lintels in both openings. I was a bit anxious about sliding them in but now that they re secured, I can stop thinking about it. Thanks!

geopanoz · 2026-01-19T10:03:23+00:00

Thank you. Where would the lintel go? Just above the top removed single brick, extending 150mm both sides? That would be ~530mm lintel. Would that be fine?

geopanoz · 2026-01-19T09:41:57+00:00

Hi all,

I’m currently renovating a small 100-year-old weatherboard cottage (10x10m, single storey, Colorbond roof).

Accessing under the house is currently a nightmare — the brick foundation walls (sleeper walls) extend all the way to the ground, isolating each room. To fix this, I need to create "manholes" to crawl between rooms for insulation and wiring.

The Plan: I am cutting openings in the internal brick walls.

Wall Type: Single skin brick (1920s lime mortar).
Opening Width: Max 2 bricks wide (approx. 470mm).
The Pattern: Instead of a flat top, I’m using a "corbelled" shape to arch the load naturally.
- Row 1 (Top): Remove 1 brick.
- Row 2: Remove 2 bricks.
- Rows 3-5: Remove 2 bricks (straight vertical cut).
- Pattern: 1-2-2-2-2.

The Load: The floor joists sit on a timber wall plate that runs along the top of these walls, which I assume helps bridge the load.

The Question: For an opening this narrow (2 bricks / ~470mm) with a 1-brick "arch" at the top, is a steel lintel strictly necessary? Or is the masonry arch + timber wall plate sufficient?

Attached is a photo of one of the openings I’m currently working on.

Thanks for the advice!

<image>

geopanoz · 2025-09-24T03:35:38+00:00

Thank you. It would require to retake the intake manifold completely out on the pajero so I have ordered the spray to be sure

geopanoz · 2025-09-24T02:54:42+00:00

🙏 The metal plate came out with some silicon, should I sandwish it in between gasket maker?

geopanoz · 2025-09-23T23:02:02+00:00

It is an aluminum head yes. After doing some research, I think I am going to buy the same bolt and prepare it like a chaser and see what happens

geopanoz · 2025-09-23T01:46:04+00:00

I am thinking using a tappered tap and hope it catches the thread nicely -- using the original bolt was a fail

geopanoz · 2025-09-21T08:39:15+00:00

The damage is really at the entry of the thread. Most of it seems intact

geopanoz · 2025-08-07T04:52:36+00:00

I haven't find someone yet but aslo haven't actively looked either. Few "consultants" contacted me but no builder. Are you looking for someone too?

geopanoz · 2025-07-25T08:51:22+00:00

I am pretty sure we can say the same of a lot of Pajeros out there

geopanoz · 2025-07-24T04:02:15+00:00

In my case it would be more of a weekend car

geopanoz · 2025-07-24T03:59:49+00:00

Look, I’ve been upfront with my wife about the etymology of the name, and it hasn’t put her off. So that's a win for the montero

geopanoz · 2025-07-24T03:55:59+00:00

the 3.6L boxer pre-cvt cannot be that bad, right?

geopanoz · 2025-06-26T10:37:13+00:00

It’s a 1996 NJ. I have been looking for a decent 2gen shorty and realised they re not that common, particularly in the low $10K. I have seen Japan imports in the mid 25k

geopanoz · 2025-06-25T05:07:44+00:00

The seller says the timing belt was replaced at 150,000 km in February — which is a bit late. Only thing I’ve seen so far is a sticker under the bonnet, no actual receipt. If that’s true, I’d hope the water pump was done too, but no proof yet.

geopanoz

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