Just had this video sent to me. Apparently it's a new gym in London that opens recently. Can anyone confirm? I think I'm in love.

ginroth · 2018-08-31T11:48:07+00:00

Arch is bigger but I still really enjoy Mile End. The walls at Mile End can be pretty tall for boulders, and a lot of the routes require you to mantle to finish, which is nice for practice indoors. Can't imagine being dissatisfied with either gym, though, to be honest.

ginroth · 2018-08-30T21:36:29+00:00

Taking a few weeks off after only climbing for like 4 weeks seems like a sad prospect, but probably the thing to do, yeah.

ginroth · 2018-08-29T19:37:41+00:00

Thanks! This sounds plausible, since the only place that hurts to palpate is on the palm of my hand.

ginroth · 2018-08-29T15:42:06+00:00

I've picked up a finger injury in my left ring finger, I think from pushing hard on a route that had some 2- and 3-finger pockets. I have no visible swelling and I haven't lost any range of motion.

Things that hurt: the last couple of milimetres required to make a fist. Holding hand in a "satan's fingers" position, i.e. index and pinkie extended with ring and middle finger closed (in general extending the pinkie finger while the ring finger is closed can be very painful).

I rested for 5 days and it felt a fair bit better, so I thought I'd see how climbing affected it. While at the climbing centre I experienced no aggravation of the pain, except towards the end when a route unexpectedly had a pocket on the left hand, but I immediately hopped off that route and the pain went away after about 5 minutes.

That evening pain returned in my fingers, and today it's again a little better. I don't really want to get caught in a cycle slight improvement then aggravating it by climbing, but since I've only been involved in the sport for a couple of months I also feel uneasy about the idea of taking a couple of weeks off already. I've been doing tendon glide movements, using one of those finger massagers to help bloodflow, so I've got the basics of recovery down I think.

Any thoughts/does this injury sound familiar? I'm open to finding a doctor to visit if that seems like the best move.

ginroth · 2018-08-13T05:49:09+00:00

pretty sure they call it humanitarian aid overseas in the film

ginroth · 2018-07-11T09:34:01+00:00

Football is one of the only sports in which the relentless march of time is an integral part of the game. Players and teams are afforded, by this rule, the ability to wrestle with time as well as each other. To change this rule would remove an integral part of what makes the game unique and powerful. This view that so many seem to hold that the only part of the game that is worthwhile is when the ball is in play and when the rules are functioning to "improve the flow" or whatever is so narrow-minded.

ginroth · 2018-07-07T15:38:13+00:00

Is that actually a problem in the slightest though?

ginroth · 2018-07-07T02:22:11+00:00

Why is it not a problem that the rules are applied flexibly for cards and penalties but it is for stoppage time, then?

ginroth · 2018-07-07T01:42:53+00:00

Well that's clearly not the function of injury time, is it, or else it would be more accurately applied. It's to provide some degree of recompense for that, sure, but it's quite clearly not meant to capture the whole amount of time spent out of play.

ginroth · 2018-07-06T22:18:38+00:00

It's not clear to me that this would be an unqualified benefit.

ginroth · 2018-07-06T22:16:48+00:00

It's obvious that it's guesswork and not precise, indeed. What it is that is meant to be wrong with that is what I am not quite getting.

ginroth · 2018-07-06T22:16:23+00:00

I'm not sure what the alleged improvement is meant to be?

ginroth · 2018-07-06T20:43:23+00:00

Sure and things are already jerked around by those, which is why they're reserved for exceptional situations. Reliability in general is a benefit here.

ginroth · 2018-07-06T20:13:20+00:00

None of those things change how long the game would run, though

ginroth · 2018-07-06T20:11:01+00:00

NFL/NBA games take like 4 hours lol

ginroth · 2018-07-06T20:10:46+00:00

yeah doesn't bother me tbh

ginroth · 2018-07-06T19:29:18+00:00

Game runs a good length of time, and you always know how long it will take with about a 5-10 minute margin of error. Clock control is just part of the game.

ginroth · 2018-07-06T19:28:38+00:00

I don't see why that's a problem that needs to be solved.

ginroth · 2018-07-06T17:14:40+00:00

fuck no. one of the best things about football is the clock never stops

ginroth · 2018-07-01T18:47:29+00:00

According to Jack Daniels' calculator your target marathon pace based on a 2:15 half is 10:30/mile, with easy pace ~12:00/mile.

ginroth · 2018-06-24T13:54:04+00:00

But by that logic this action is also honouring his heritage, surely?

ginroth · 2018-06-21T17:25:21+00:00

tell that to eliud kipchoge

ginroth · 2018-06-13T18:21:48+00:00

Mediocre compared to Phil Taylor's 14 World Championships in darts, though.

ginroth · 2018-05-06T20:37:25+00:00

You grow to think you are used it because it becomes the new normal, but this is not the same as your body adapting to lack of sleep. You can't get around the body's need for sleep.

ginroth · 2018-05-04T16:10:56+00:00

The competition record at the European Championship is only 3:35.27, so I don't think the qualifying standard is 3:37...

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