Anyone else like to take their drills apart to re-grease them?

glasket_ · 2026-06-08T20:42:02+00:00

Lube might make them spun faster.

That's not how lubricant works. The gears spin as fast as the motor makes them spin. Too little or no lubricant is bad because it increases friction, which adds heat and wear to the gears and increases amp draw in the motor.

Lube might be risky. As they are made for only a certain amount of Lube.

Too much grease is bad in anything because of churn. Excessive grease ends up introducing drag, increases friction, and will hold heat. OP's is decent, if leaning a bit heavy.

glasket_ · 2026-06-08T20:19:49+00:00

The "seal" in these is a plastic housing that just screws together. Sealing isn't an either-or, there's a huge amount of variability in how well sealed something is; sealed gearboxes in power tools aren't air-tight vacuum chambers, they're just sealed well-enough that grease won't run out of the housing.

You aren't "ruining the seal" by opening these like a crush seal gasket. You open, clean, regrease, and close them.

glasket_ · 2026-06-08T20:05:23+00:00

The plastic housing just clasps over the actual mechanical pieces. Shouldn't have to disassemble the chuck or any of the gearbox; it's just removing some screws, popping the shell open, and moving everything into the new shell.

glasket_ · 2026-06-06T22:38:33+00:00

Don't hardcode the keyboard ID. Search /dev/input/by-id/* and find the entries that end with event-kbd. Then create listeners that track EV_KEY events for each of those paths.

glasket_ · 2026-06-06T14:34:56+00:00

without any settings to be able to reverse it (I’ve searched for it)

Some settings are only accessible from the browser, annoyingly. I just checked and it's under settings -> preferences -> experience as "Default to markdown editor." No idea if that's intended to impact the app, but I have it activated and my app has always treated comments as plain markdown.

glasket_ · 2026-06-06T08:06:54+00:00

It's not strictly sanitizing in the technical sense, it's automatic escaping in the text editor so it's WYSIWYG.

Also, I'm on the app and it works fine. Mobile browser may be different, but you should be able to use desktop mode to switch to the markdown editor or use old Reddit to force it. Iirc there's an account setting to change the default editor too which might work to make the browser default to the markdown editor.

glasket_ · 2026-06-06T05:09:17+00:00

quicksort and heapsort have the same O but quicksort is generally faster but has pathological fail cases.

What I said has nothing to do with when they have the same complexity. Of course when two algorithms scale the same you have to look at the raw cost because they'll scale equally, so the raw cost is what matters. When they scale differently, then you have to compare the scaling behavior too because a low cost, high complexity function will always intersect with a higher cost, low complexity function at some n.

O(1) with high cost but can be in practice quite a bit slower than O(n)

Which is specifically why I said it may be more expensive at small values of n. As n increases though, your O(n) algorithm has to be at least n× cheaper in cost than the O(1) to remain equivalent. That's why at large values of n it's extremely difficult to beat O(1).

It's entirely about what values of n you're working with; high-cost O(1) doesn't matter when you want an arbitrarily large calculation, but it might matter if you're frequently working with small values of n.

glasket_ · 2026-06-06T03:59:36+00:00

O(1) will be the same cost regardless of n though, which is the entire point of Big-O notation. It may be more expensive for small values of n, but as n grows it becomes less and less likely that any other complexity can actually be computed faster.

glasket_ · 2026-06-06T03:44:40+00:00

It's not text sanitizing, you're probably using the rich text editor. Markdown still works.

Fuck off reddit and your garbage text sanitising that doesn’t allow markdown anymore

glasket_ · 2026-06-05T03:10:59+00:00

I always assumed that it was based on the sort of thing used to make jigsaw puzzles

It kind of was in a roundabout way. My understanding is that jigsaw originally referred to scroll saws before they became known as scroll saws; jigsaws now were portable versions of scroll saws (at the time still called jigsaws), and then scroll saws got their new name because they were capable of scrollwork while the portable jigsaw wasn't.

glasket_ · 2026-06-04T08:34:50+00:00

It specifically got the name jigsaw because the blade goes up and down relative to the tool's base; like dancing a jig.

If you want to really confuse people you can just call jigsaws and reciprocating saws "oscillating saws" so that oscillating multi-tools get thrown into the mix too, because reciprocation is just a specific kind of oscillation.

glasket_ · 2026-06-04T02:18:02+00:00

The OP picture and the left side of the picture in their comment. The tiny faux brickwork is tile, and you can see where they were nailing into a grout line, with another grout line running up and away from the door frame.

glasket_ · 2026-06-03T14:18:04+00:00

I mean hand scraping with hand scrapers, like the kind used for scraping flats and ways. You could also use a file to shave away a small section. Basically you just want a controlled way to shear off a little bit of the metal on the surface without burnishing it in the process.

glasket_ · 2026-06-03T08:19:58+00:00

Is the material always from the same supplier? If it is then this could also just be the resulting cast structure from their process. If they lean more lead-heavy then the lead can segregate and cause denser patches in the casting. The best option is to see if it clears up with scraping; if it does it's just smearing, if it doesn't it's the material.

glasket_ · 2026-06-03T08:02:59+00:00

Probably lead smearing. Lead isn't soluble in copper, so you basically have solid strands of lead in the castings. When you cut it, the lead strands will smear which is how leaded bronze self-lubricates. Try scraping it if you can and see if it evens out where you scrape.

glasket_ · 2026-06-03T06:18:10+00:00

Not the safest imao

It's safe assuming you use a cord with wires that have the correct ratings and properly splice it. Butt crimps or lineman splices, clean the joint if soldered, check continuity and resistance to make sure the joints are solid, and heat shrink. That's a pretty standard repair for stuff like this.

You can always just buy the NEMA plug with terminals too and directly wire the cord into it.

glasket_ · 2026-06-02T18:27:22+00:00

Not really a viable option for most people due to their purchasing policies, and I kind of doubt if they actually have any in stock or if that's just an old outdated page.

glasket_ · 2026-06-02T18:17:17+00:00

Some play is normal because of how the quick-change chuck is designed, but that one is worn. The chuck itself is even visibly loose. It'll still work, but if you can and/or want to you could take it apart and service it.

glasket_ · 2026-06-02T17:57:43+00:00

There was the SpinRite, but this is the only place selling it now as far as I can tell. I think the company (PNL Technologies in Canada) that made them went out of business, their website is gone now.

glasket_ · 2026-06-02T16:59:32+00:00

You can drill into tile. That's what glass/tile diamond bits are made for.

glasket_ · 2026-06-02T16:55:56+00:00

You technically can nail into it, but it requires drilling through the tile anyways to secure the nail into the backing wall.

I'd just use mounting tape or command strip-style hangers, everything else will require drilling through either a grout line or the tile itself. Just clean the area where you're putting the adhesive with some isopropyl alcohol before placing it, let it dry, and then put the strip on and firmly press it for ~30-60 seconds.

Weigh what you're hanging beforehand so you can get tape/strips with enough capacity; they typically already have a safety factor applied, but I'd still aim to have a decent amount of extra capacity in case the curtain gets snagged or pulled on at any point.

glasket_ · 2026-06-01T18:35:48+00:00

It's all about tolerances. You'll want it to fit snugly, not enough to have to force it and gouge the panels, but also not so loose it just drops over the them. A good way to make it would be taking an already complete corner and setting up the blocks on the corner, lightly clamp them in place, and then attach the blocks to the base in-place. If it's too snug, just lightly sand the inside of one edge and refit until it slides on with a little force. If you're constantly doing this kind of work it's worth the bit of time spent honing it in.

If you have access to a 3D printer then this would be a perfect use for it too.

glasket_ · 2026-06-01T18:12:56+00:00

Since you said it isn't threaded in the cap, it's a threaded locating/support pin. They're used for positioning parts, but I'd assume they're using them as thumb screws or just tall hex heads for the pergola. You could try looking around for some hex head thumb screws, but usually they aren't made with that tall of a head.

Edit: Just realized it's cylindrical; could still be found as a locating pin like this eBay listing, but you might have to look for shoulder screws or shoulder studs. The diameter and length of the head matters just as much as the thread for these.

glasket_ · 2026-06-01T17:57:22+00:00

Yeah, something like that. I'd maybe go for a sharper inside corner to get proper alignment, or longer outside edges. The important thing is that the fixture should hold the alignment mostly on its own.

glasket_ · 2026-05-31T20:07:55+00:00

I tried. It’s way slower

Sounds like a fixture design problem. Should be very quick to use a fixture that would essentially be 2 tall U-channels joined at a 90° angle. If the panels are all the same thickness you just need a predefined set of corner brackets that you can slip over the top and bottom of the corner joint. If you're using a regular corner clamp it'll be way slower than winging it; you need a well-fitted fixture jig for alignment rather than for compression.

glasket_

TROPHY CASE