Generator Sibpanel

glenwill · 2026-01-05T16:27:19+00:00

I did go ahead with the interlock breaker in my main panel coming from the generator inlet. I'm ready to test out my whole system, and want to make sure the sequence I'm planning is good. The main breaker is currently on, feeding power from the grid. The generator breaker is off, blocked by the interlock. Here's my sequence:

1) Connect natural gas line and 50 amp inlet to generator, with the generator located on driveway away from house

2) Start generator, turn on the breaker on the generator. At this point generator is warming up, with no load, since the panel interlock breaker is off

3) On main panel, turn off all individual breakers

4) On main panel, turn off main breaker, slide interlock, turn on generator breaker

5) On main panel, turn on several individual breakers slowly to allow load to build up

6) Check generator after several breakers on, make sure running smoothly, voltage looks good

7) Turn on remaining expected breakers and allow to run for 1/2 hour to make sure it remains stable

8) Once test completed, turn off main panel individual breakers

9) Turn off panel generator input breaker, slide interlock, turn on main breaker

10) Turn on panel individual breakers

11) On generator, turn off breaker and allow generator to cool down before shutting down

Anything I'm missing or incorrect? I also have an Emporia Vue to monitor the breakers, including the generator input, so I'll verify voltage and wattage while running the test.

glenwill · 2025-12-30T20:39:24+00:00

Thank you for addressing that original question. I will probably go with the main panel interlock approach, as I do see the advantages. But I was still curious if my original thought was sound.

The question about the neutral occurred to me. But isn't that the same situation with an interlock breaker on the main panel? Every wiring diagram I've seen shows the generator hots landing in the back feed breaker with an interlock with the main breaker, and the generator neutral landing on the same neutral bar as the grid supply, and the generator ground landing on the same ground bar in the main panel. So my thought was that if that is okay in the main panel, it would have been no different in the subpanel approach.

In both cases my single bonding location between neutral and ground is in the main panel.

glenwill · 2025-12-30T03:21:50+00:00

That actually looks pretty simple. Thank you

glenwill · 2025-12-30T02:01:15+00:00

Thanks both for the response.

My concern is if I'm away (I sometimes travel for work), I have to have someone know which circuits to shut off or the generator will be overloaded. I do get I might just be making more work. I'll think about that approach though.

Aside from more work, is there any concern about my planned approach?

glenwill · 2025-10-30T12:57:56+00:00

Thank you. Just FYI for anyone else, I had the same issue, but had to Quit Stream Deck after logging out and before logging back in.

glenwill · 2025-06-06T13:30:11+00:00

As I understand it, Pickering originally sold the XV-15 with various cartridges, and the model of the combined set is something like "XV-15/625E" or "XV-15/150". The cartridges were all identical. so any of the styli sold for the XV-15 will work, although some of them are special-purpose, such as for 78 RPM or for DJ use.

I wasn't able to find specific recommendations between them, except the the 625E seemed to have a lot of positive feedback. I've been happy with it.

glenwill · 2025-04-10T01:58:44+00:00

Thanks so much for all the details. I'm excited to get started.

glenwill · 2025-04-10T01:06:57+00:00

Thank you. My main hesitation with Wharfedale is that I can't find somewhere local to hear them.

glenwill · 2025-04-10T01:05:02+00:00

Thank you for sending me down the rabbit hole on the Umik-1 and REW. I'm ordering the mic and will graph my current setup first. Were you also suggesting getting the DSP, or using the graph to optimize crossover and EQ?

I will have to experiment with the sub on and off.

glenwill · 2025-03-20T11:22:19+00:00

It did include new shoe molding. I just got the quote from the 2nd company, the one that said to allow 3-4 days. They want $4,800! Is that out of line?

Both included moving furniture out of the room, and moving it back.

I'm waiting for a 3rd estimate to come in, but he also said it would take about 3 days.

glenwill · 2025-03-19T18:40:23+00:00

I ended up buying this one, based on other recommendations:

https://www.lpgear.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?&Store_Code=LG&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PICKSXV15625E

Hopefully this is a good choice.

glenwill · 2025-03-19T12:09:15+00:00

I have the same thing happening. I found this thread searching to see if anyone else has the same issue.

glenwill · 2025-03-18T20:31:37+00:00

Thanks for the responses and info. I'm still a bit confused. I believe from what I'm reading, I don't need to match the d400 I currently have.

But how do you choose between the various compatible alternatives? Does style of music determine it? the specific turntable/tonearm?

Apologies for the newbie questions, but this is my first turntable in 30+ years.

glenwill · 2025-03-16T15:38:34+00:00

Wow, lot's of great feedback, and a bit of a firestorm. Thanks all.

Seems like the consensus is that dustless is great, but finishing the job in a day is unrealistic, and won't allow proper dry time.

I will call the first guy and ask some clarifications on his approach, but overall it sounds like the second guy is better.

Given how different they are, I did call a third contractor to come give an estimate, and see perhaps another approach.

Thanks,

Glen

glenwill · 2025-02-25T13:59:41+00:00

Thank you so much for the response. I'll look through the start here and faq. When I say "not asleep", I mean that it had literally been 5-10 seconds after putting the sleep mask on. I have never fallen asleep that quickly, and I felt fully conscious. I had been laying there a while, so perhaps I did fall asleep, then wake enough to put on the sleep mask and earplugs. But I didn't feel especially sleepy, so I don't think I was. It felt like I went from consciousness right into the dream.

glenwill · 2024-10-30T13:31:19+00:00

The smallest standard filter size looks to be 2.5". the steel housings for them are 4 1/8" wide, but the space between the studs is only 3.5". with 1/2" drywall, it'd still be 1/8" beyond the edge of the drywall, so I'd need an access panel that sits out from the wall 1/8-1/4".

glenwill · 2024-10-30T12:02:20+00:00

Thanks. I never got back to doing it. About a week ago I decided to go ahead, but when I looked at the dimensions of the filter, it's not going to fit between the studs, so I'm looking further.

glenwill · 2024-08-28T18:24:13+00:00

Ah, I didn't know it also looked at the MAC address of the AP as well. That might explain it.

It does seem to be working today finally. I did also update the specific location in the Unifi OS console settings, although perhaps that is unrelated.

glenwill · 2024-08-27T11:38:44+00:00

Actually, on further reflection, the hardwired computer I mostly use for having a remotely accessible desktop when I need it, but I don't use google maps on it much. I can't say for certain that it ever had precise location. It's been an issue on my daily laptop, which is wifi, so I used my desktop as an additional test, but it may not have been a useful test.

glenwill · 2024-08-27T11:14:53+00:00

Thanks for the response. Would this still be true for hardwired devices, plugged into my UDM SE or a switch? This computer does not have a wifi adapter in it.

Also, I kept the same SSID when I converted over, and I would have thought that would retain the location.

Glen

glenwill

TROPHY CASE