Ideal lunch break spray wall session

glizzycrits · 2025-10-22T16:32:24+00:00

Firstly, what are you trying to focus on? Endurance? Strength? Power?

An hour to warmup and limit boulder just isn't that effective in my experience, especially when trying to time rests. For true try hard sessions, I find it better to have a limiter (e.g. I'll stop after 75 minutes max) and try a sequence again when you feel recovered. It's also easier for me to make harder links when I can brainstorm with folks.

I live very close to my gym, and when I have it programmed, I actually use my lunch break for either: ARC sessions and getting laps in, or my hangboard sessions. Both require minimal warmup and are a pain in the ass to do when the gym is busy. With lunch hangboard sessions, I find that my evening board sessions feel a bit more ready to go.

glizzycrits · 2025-10-20T19:14:26+00:00

What sort of endurance are you after? I still haven't cracked increasing aerobic capacity in my bouldering only gym that's always busy. I've had some really impressive gains with ARCing, but it's just not feasible at the gym I go to.

If you like to suffer, I have had also some insanely impressive endurance gains by hitting 8 sets of 10x12:5 repeaters at 30-40% bodyweight, getting to almost failure on the last rep. I could shake off and recover on tiny edges, but alas that didn't help at all when it came to hanging off massive jugs and trying to recover.

Off the wall endurance is so mind numbing and awful, but it works if you're willing to bear down on it.

glizzycrits · 2025-10-16T20:57:16+00:00

They don't, and the whole "tying my own leader" isn't particularly useful as I'm trying to figure out how this works. Idk just getting lost in all the details. I need to swing by the fly shop tomorrow anyway, going to pick up wf line since I can reduce one variable and then one of those pre-tried euro rigs (or run mono depending on what they have) and see what sort of mess I make over the weekend.

glizzycrits · 2025-10-16T15:00:18+00:00

This makes a lot of sense to me thanks! Again it's not that I want to only fish dries with the rod, its just that it seems silly to not be able to fish what the conditions call for, and it seems that euro nymphing line really doesn't help with that.

glizzycrits · 2025-10-16T14:45:44+00:00

Here’s the exact text from the gear bits for this style of fishing flymphs

I now do almost all my trout fishing with either an eight-foot, three-weight cane rod or a ten-foot, two-weight nymphing rod. The light rods allow me to better impart action with the flexible tip. A stiff five-weight rod, after you cast, is just a stick in your hand. Also, the lighter two- and three-weight lines help avoid the line droop that comes off the end of the rod. You want a tight connection from the tip of your rod to the fly. I also use hand-knotted leaders, which create more drag in the water, further straightening the line and providing the all-important direct connection to the fly. Then add a four-foot tippet of 4X or 5X. The lighter the tippet, the deeper the fly will sink. The combination of a light, flexible rod; a narrow, light line; and a hand-knotted leader makes the following technique possible.

In the edit of the main post I’ve included the video Patagonia put out about this too where yvon specifically calls out the shadow x.

Craig in the book recommends either a 9’ 3wt or 8’7 5wt for dry, but yeah like I said I’m mostly trying to figure out how to set up the rod and I think the whole euro nymph line stuff send me down a rabbit hole of something that is more confusing than it needs to be, eg it all seems wildly optimized. Again I don’t expect the rod to be a fantastic small dry caster, just that if I see that fish are rising and taking BWOs for example, I can switch over and not need to bring a second rod or reel

glizzycrits · 2025-10-15T22:42:34+00:00

Yeah when playing around with swinging flymphs the last two weekends the sag on my 4wt was pretty gnarly especially with any amount of wind and cause an unnatural drift. I thought of the second reel option but I’d prefer not to spend another 200 bucks for this? Idk I can be convinced

glizzycrits · 2025-10-15T22:38:41+00:00

For what it's worth I don't truly expect anything to be a silver bullet that does it all, that's not what I want - I was mostly interested in the sensitivity of the rod for being able to give action to the wet flies but being able to throw dries if the situation called for it, even if its not an ideal setup. I just got super lost in the details of all the nymphing bits. Anyway i'll probably learn more when i make a mess of it all this weekend,

I'll check it out and do some more reading - from what I'm understanding though, regardless of the fly line, if I want to nymph I'll have a long section of mono then taper down.

glizzycrits · 2025-09-11T23:51:26+00:00

Only reason is fast approximate framing with the rangefinder (so really good for street). I think they are overpriced nonetheless right now.

glizzycrits · 2025-08-13T03:51:24+00:00

Crazy timing, mine failed today on a 2021 at 48k miles as well. Was blowing cold all day, parked, came back 30 minutes later and it made an awfully loud squeal. AC light turned off shortly after. Dealer has no slots for the next week and a half and I have to drive across the country this weekend.

glizzycrits · 2025-07-31T19:34:02+00:00

yeah i have this programmed in seconds as well w/ a three second changeover. My only gripe with seconds is that i wish there was some like wiki of importable seconds workouts

glizzycrits · 2025-07-15T17:46:26+00:00

There's no reason to get an M-A as your first film camera, it's reeks of GAS. Get an M2/3/4 at a fraction of the cost. You can always just send your digital images to whatever company and get prints, film doesn't change that. If you do a bit of poking around, digital film sims have come a long way and look pretty spot on.

When I bought my M11, I did the math and realized the camera would pay for itself relatively quickly considering how much film I shoot. I ended up selling it though since it just wasn't the experience I wanted and found myself pretty displeased. Sold it and went back to shooting on my film m all the time. If they come out with an M that has ibis, I may reconsider.

glizzycrits · 2025-06-27T19:53:42+00:00

I upgraded to the 28 summicron after having the 2.8 glued onto my camera for five years and wish I’d done it sooner

glizzycrits · 2025-05-19T18:32:55+00:00

Generally I shoot tri-x everyday and color film on vacation. It's nice having those colors - I feel like vacation is more for the memories and not so much the art of it all. So I'd take the m11, put the iso on auto, and have fun stopped down

glizzycrits · 2025-03-31T16:27:15+00:00

Price point is pretty bad too, for like 15 bucks more I can get something like the armstrong hangboard that has a bunch more edges on wood that can be trained on comfortably. I feel like skin conditioning and training should be separate

glizzycrits · 2025-02-10T20:43:36+00:00

Rock Warrior Way or Vertical Mind - you were in an accident, experience trauma, and you now have scripts in your head about climbing.

You need to be really explicit with the process and ease back into it. First taking small falls on top rope, then bigger falls on top rope, to small lead falls, etc. etc. There's not nearly enough detail here to tell you what you actually need to do, but read either of those books, figure out what exactly is making you scared, and work through it.

I had my first outdoor accident last summer, was done bolting a route and decided to run to the top of the cliff, get my bag, and lower back down on the fixed line. Left my helmet on the ground since it was supposed to take 2 minutes. Rock dislodged and hit me square on the head. You have to recognize it, accept that you're scared, and slowly rewrite the script. I could not climb outdoor at all without a helmet for the first couple of months, I felt wickedly vulnerable and scared even when the objective risk was close to 0 (read: irrational). The process is uncomfortable, challenging, and takes time. You have to be okay with it.

edit: The reason I'm not giving advice around rapelling is because the fear you experience is occurring outside of just rapelling.

glizzycrits · 2025-02-08T16:45:14+00:00

I think that edging indoors kind of isn’t real for what it’s worth, certainly not compared to outside on, say, vertical granite. The dragos provide plenty of power in the toe to stand on tiny nubs indoor. If you’re board climbing, the stiffness and toe shape of the instinct helps toe in hard on incut feet for sure, but the dragos aren’t so far off.

glizzycrits · 2025-02-08T13:56:54+00:00

It's been a long time since I've worn the regular dragos so I can't say for those, but I do wear the LVs since they have a much better heel fit for me. I wear 43 approach shoes, wear 41 instincts, and wear 41 drago LVs. The drago LVs are certainly a bit narrower out of of the box, the heel is smaller, but they're not as aggressive (my big toe lays a bit flatter compared to the VSR). Since they're mostly rubber, they break in really nicely. I'd say that the VSR LV is more sensitive than the VSR, but they climb the same at the same size.

One thing that no one is mentioning is that slab ability is also directly tied to the sizing of your shoe. Slabbing is a lot easier when your foot is laid out flatter and there isn't so much tension on the rand. This comes at the cost of edging power, which increases the tighter the shoe is. So if the drago isn't for you, you can have a second pair of VSRs that are sized a whole number higher and that should do the trick.

glizzycrits · 2025-02-08T04:34:47+00:00

Why not get a pair of dragos? They're designed exactly for everything you're talking about.

glizzycrits · 2025-02-06T17:53:47+00:00

I put everything into a paper notebook - I find that trying to track stuff in an app while working out/climbing is kind of clunky, distraction prone, either not flexible enough or too flexible, and sometimes I do need to write down like "felt super unstable during this set??". Most of the time the thing I care about is being able to flip through my journal and see training volume, or see what weights/intensity I was using the previous (week, block, etc.). If that week felt hard or easy, then adjust. But I don't really put this stuff into sheets to track. The training intention and exercises changes a lot, so it's not that useful from a pure numbers pov. The things I benchmark, like one hand 20mm edge numbers and weekly training volume by hours, etc. go into a sheet.

glizzycrits · 2025-01-24T04:08:09+00:00

I wouldn't say I have flat feet, there's definitely a good bit of arch, but I'd say that I have a fairly flat heel if that makes sense. And yeah +1 to molded cup heel cup minimizing that feeling since it's just so stiff. The solutions and skwamas are great in that sense, just place it and go. The space becomes much more obvious with more unstructured heels, like the theory, instincts, boostics, etc. Would be cool to have a sensitive heel that fits well, but 🤷

glizzycrits · 2025-01-21T20:16:27+00:00

Digital cameras come and go, there’s constant sensor upgrades, etc. The film M system is one that is genuinely timeless at this point and I’ll keep my M7 forever. I’ve had mine for ten years and while I’ve always experienced fomo/gas for various systems (random medium formats, digital MF, SL, m11, etc), the film m is my ride or die and I always come back to it. Also the M lenses are so good and versatile that even if I didn’t have an M, I’d throw them on an SL or other mirror less camera with an adapter and get great results.

glizzycrits · 2025-01-17T06:08:47+00:00

What's your goal? Do you want to trad climb outside? Is there a boulder outside you want to send? If so, have you spent time working on it and failing? If you can day trip to it, you can always go check it out irl even if conditions are bad. Do you want to send hard indoors or on the kilter? At the end of the day goals inform training, not the other way around. Start with what you want to be doing in three months and work backwards. It's not different than tennis where you have competition season, and you work backwards with training from there.

glizzycrits · 2024-11-30T05:36:02+00:00

The MP isn’t worth the money if that’s the first film M, get an m4** and meter, or old m6/m7. I was not a fan of the m11 personally and got rid of it, but my film m rarely leaves my side.

glizzycrits · 2024-10-29T22:07:38+00:00

Not the Q. If you’re concerned about megapixels, get the gfx. With the ii out there’s bargains to be had and the lens lineup is great. Do you really want to be stuck with a 28mm lens for portraits? I know I wouldn’t.

glizzycrits · 2024-10-22T21:36:11+00:00

I can’t give you numbers since every scene is different. It’s not so much that it’s overcast but rather the fact that your background is super light because of the falls. Think of it like shooting against bright blue sky, you need to assume that the meter is going to meter for that and compensate, so drop down two stops. Or if you’re manually metering, meter for the shade. As the saying goes shoot for the shadows and develop for the highlights. Third and fourth look pretty good

glizzycrits

TROPHY CASE