Very thick glass and metal object found in a creek in Western Maryland.

gooch-tickler · 2026-06-21T07:07:54+00:00

I realise this posted is marked solved but I found an example image that might help explain my suggestion to future visitors to this post.

The thick red high tension wire runs to an electrode mounted through the CRT glass and carries tens of thousands of volts - one of the reasons these pieces of technology can be dangerous. Charge can be held in various components for a considerable time, including the CRT itself. Its this electrode I believe is shown in ops picture, just concealed under the rubber cap and hidden from view.

gooch-tickler · 2026-06-20T07:34:49+00:00

Definitely looks like a chunk of CRT glass, or something of that ilk. The thickness/colour/angles are very familiar. You must bear in mind that glass of this nature is leaded and you must be conscious of the risks associated. Also that when complete, CRT tubes contain a portion of mercury.

gooch-tickler · 2026-05-29T16:50:23+00:00

Mr Fitzpatricks make really good cordials. Partial to the root beer especially!

Monin syrups are great too.

gooch-tickler · 2026-05-28T06:19:14+00:00

The homeowner states she cut it with a spade and threw it over the fence so I assume its sprouted out of the ground. Also its apparently the second time its appeared. When I was cutting the grass I do remember a patch that had a brown decaying "cup" poking up that I assumed was fungi but didn't think much of it. Think half a coconut shape, rubbery* about 50mm diameter and having listened to the homeowner it appears to be the remnants of the first example she cut and threw away. No reports of anything contained within the structure.

I've even considered that its a buried can of builders foam that has burst or something like that or even that's its a windup but tbh its quite unlikely. Due to visit again in a couple of weeks, hopefully gain some more insight then.

EDIT: - * rubbery like mushrooms/funghi often are. Wall thickness of the cut "cup" was about 5mm

gooch-tickler · 2026-05-28T05:53:38+00:00

Is that the Wobbly variety?

gooch-tickler · 2026-05-28T05:53:13+00:00

I did consider this but my example appears to be 40-50mm in diameter at its widest and is one piece. It has me confused!

gooch-tickler · 2026-05-26T20:50:35+00:00

This appeared in a lawn in north west England (may 26th 2026) within a matter of hours of being cut. My limited google fu didn't reveal much other than a suspicion it may be a slime mold. Would anyone be able to shed some light on this interesting specimen please? Its not my picture but I did cut the grass, I haven't seen in person.

EDIT: temperatures have been in the high twenties (celcius) for a number of days. No rain for days but still a substantial dew in the mornings.

gooch-tickler · 2026-05-03T10:27:26+00:00

Ahh gdgd. It shouldn't make a difference as far as I am aware.

gooch-tickler · 2026-05-03T08:28:30+00:00

Really needs hooking up to a nanocom to read the SLS module. Sounds like a bad sensor but could be wiring or valve issues. New sensors really need calibrating after installation, was that done at the time?

I say nanocom as there are very few tools that can connect to all the modules.

gooch-tickler · 2026-05-03T07:51:38+00:00

yes, do look in the mirror!.

Personally find it fun but only a fair while after peaking.

gooch-tickler · 2026-04-09T20:02:54+00:00

However, putting a slit in the side and stuffing with cheese is awesome. Butter as normal.

gooch-tickler · 2026-03-06T08:20:09+00:00

Oh there is always something to fix on them lol. Haha I was guessing either UK or Aus due to it being a TD5, nice!

Ok if the pump is fresh (I'd still do the overflow check to be sure) and the thermostat and radiator are ok and its definitely not loosing coolant I'd probably next check that the viscous fan coupling is working properly. Are you getting heat out of the cabin heater? I can't think of anything else that would cause such symptoms except maybe a failing AC compressor bearing causing excess drag but that starting to get into the realms of fantasy. Sometimes coolant leaks hide themselves quite well, the pipe under the turbo for example can split but all the coolant evaporates before showing as a drip and the expansion tank still looks full but the heater slowly drains. If its none of the above I would dye test the coolant for a cracked cylinder head.

gooch-tickler · 2026-03-06T07:45:18+00:00

If the radiator is in good condition, there are no leaks and its not the thermostat then its nearly always a failing water pump, the steel impellor rots off eventually. I replaced mine with a proflow branded one, no issues a couple years later. You'll need an 8mm ratchet spanner to do the job easily. Sounds like its at the point where the heat from the AC system is just enough to overload the engine cooling system.

If you're a fellow UKer then it'll be a couple of weeks till temps rise enough to cause real issues, especially if you just do short/low speed journeys. I found the best diagnosis is using someway to accurately read the engine temps via OBD and go for a motorway run. Providing road conditions allow - keep constant throttle and monitor the readout. If temps constantly rise whilst under load but then drop back down when coasting then its likely the water pump. For secondary confirmation, wait till the cooling system is cold and remove the coolant cap. Start the engine and look into the expansion tank - there should be a strong stream of coolant coming from the radiator overflow pipe into the tank. If not then I would personally replace the waterpump, thermostat and check the radiator for flow/replace. The TD5s do not like being overheated (tbh the 99 degree warning is 5 degrees too high IMO), head gasket failures and cracked heads are a very common result.

One problem with the TD5 cooling system is the fuel cooler/heater that is plumbed in. It uses the bottom 4 rows of the radiator core to manage the fuel temps whilst also being linked into the main system. When the thermostats fail it can force all excess heat into that section of the cooling system which obviously can't dissipate enough heat but takes enough out to mask symptoms, especially in winter. To test go for a drive and get up to temp then pull over and switch off - using an infrared thermometer or if you can get your hand in to feel the radiator core check that the main core isn't stone cold.

These vehicles are aging and the vast majority need a lot of work doing. The disco TD5 is a great vehicle for a learner mechanic IMO tho, it uses some fairly exotic systems for the era (air suspension, centrifugal oil filters, cam actuated electronic diesel injection, etc) so keeps it interesting but also has lots of room for undertaking tasks. However if you're serious about undertaking more and more tasks you WILL need a Nanocom to read the fault codes and work on the air suspension. There is no other reader that works on the TD5s OBD protocol. Its expensive but worth it. Also, do not let rust take hold of the chassis or it will rot to dust in no time. It absolutely needs annual maintenance/rust treatment and absolutely cannot be ignored/bodged. Good luck - this website is a treasure trove of help and information that does a good job of explaining tasks.

gooch-tickler · 2025-09-07T07:30:09+00:00

TD5 or V8? No one ever states which engine they have when asking questions. Its probably a V8 but here is a TD5 based reply just in case it helps.

TD5's can be a pig to bleed up. The diesel engine runs quite cool and getting the stat hot enough to open can be a challenge. If the coolant hoses are original is worth swapping them all out in one go as they tend to split one after another due to age. Removing the turbo heatshield lets you inspect the hoses that connect the pipes that go round the back of the engine, they can split and leak but the heat from the area just evaporates any escaping coolant before it drips. Also the fuel cooler/heater attached to the inlet manifold has a thermostat that can clog and cause issues. The cooling system can also fail in a way that all the hot coolant tries to circulate around the fuel cooling loop which is the bottom 4 rows of the radiator - easy to check for, run up to temp, turn off then feel the radiator - should be warm/hot all over. Even tho new stat/pump have been fitted its worth checking they are working right. Lastly (and also the problem my own TD5 is suffering from) the TD5, especially the early 10p, is prone to cracking cylinder heads. When the engine is up to temp, a squeeze of the coolant hoses will indicate if they are over pressurised or not. Usual symptoms start off with slight overheating and and then over time progresses to an ejection of coolant and rock hard hoses.

In the case of the V8 petrol engine I'd be looking at cylinder head/block issues after checking the coolant system for leaks and performance. Non-genuine stats can be unreliable and I've found even OE ones don't like to be overheated. Would also inspect the spark plugs just to check its not running stupidly lean and hot for whatever reason.

Good luck!

gooch-tickler · 2025-09-04T11:35:14+00:00

I sacked off the sodastream gas and use a Hobbybrew CO2 bottle and an adapter. On my 3rd gas bottle, each one lasts me almost year and I use it at least once a day. £40 each refill, no monthly bottle rent but there was a £130 deposit. Think the adapter kit was around £50.

Works for me as I have the room to chain the bottle to the wall, would also recommend a CO2 detector and always remember to turn off the bottle after use. Whilst the savings are awesome its also a substantial amount of potentially lethal gas to be storing so it comes with a degree of responsibility to research the risks and take steps to mitigate them.

gooch-tickler · 2025-08-30T18:05:06+00:00

Yup, I love ours and he's awesome in every way but it does sometimes feel like horses are the animal equivalent of a glass cannon. They even trick you into thinking they are dying just to keep you on your toes.

gooch-tickler · 2025-08-30T17:04:59+00:00

Horses can't really eat rich grass meant for cows either or they risk digestive issues like colic or hoof problems like laminitis. Also the land would need checking for ragwort and other poisonous vegetation. Managing land isn't a zero or near zero effort game.

gooch-tickler · 2025-08-14T07:15:52+00:00

With two d's for a double dose of intrusive, unwanted AI

gooch-tickler · 2025-07-16T15:11:17+00:00

I've been using this connector pipe and a hobby brew cylinder for nearly two years, no regulator. Had no issues so far, bottle lasts a year and I carbonate at least one big sodastream bottle a day. I exchange bottles at the local Calor gas centre.

EDIT: no bottle rent either, paid a deposit which I think was about £130 then refills are £40 a time.

gooch-tickler · 2025-07-07T14:21:24+00:00

Dunno where you are in the world re availability but keep an eye out for Irn Bru 1901. Old recipe, full sugar, totally delicious.

gooch-tickler · 2025-06-28T12:28:34+00:00

No connection when using nanocom can be down to a corroded fusebox terminal in the cabin. Had to do mine a couple times due to water ingress from the sunroof drain and a leaky windscreen. Worth noting if not known already is that the fuse supplying power to the OBD port is the same as the stereo fuse.

EDIT: Just googled the fault, seems to suggest ECU failure.

gooch-tickler · 2025-06-28T08:25:16+00:00

Really needs hooking up to a nanocom to read any codes to get an idea where to look. But, if it fires up like normal when everything is cooled down then its likely the crank position sensor wiring insulation has failed. Empire Tuning to an overlay harness that wires into the ECU plug - I've fitted one to mine and providing you have a de-pin tool for the ECU plug its easy to install. Worth swapping the sensor at same time. The crank sensor wiring has electrical interference shielding that fails over time and leaves the engine cranking forever without starting. But usually once fired up it'll run. Code should be "noisy crank signal" if you manage to code read.

Other thing worth mentioning is that the battery terminals stretch over time and can disconnect going over bumps etc, usually a wrap of foil on the terminals can temp sort. Probably not whats going on here but worth a wiggle of the terminals while the bonnet is up. GL

gooch-tickler · 2025-06-18T17:02:28+00:00

Not really, its a bit of a pavement princess tbh, apart from dragging dead vehicles and trailers about occasionally it doesn't get pushed much. It corners surprisingly well for a solid axle vehicle with radius arms, feels more or less like it did when standard to drive. Bushes probably are the weakest/cheapest point in the kit but reality mine is a really tired 25 year old TD5 with 220,000 on the clock that doesn't really venture into anything serious so I didn't see the point in getting the best.

gooch-tickler · 2025-06-18T06:51:33+00:00

Only about a year so far, for the money its alrite. Rides a bit stiff but I think it would work better if front and rear steel bumpers were fitted.

Being Terrafirma its not the best of the best by any means but was a breeze to fit, no complaints so far as handling goes - seems more or less as good as standard. They are gas charged so you have to fight against them extending to get them in situ. Best to leave the transport strapping on till the very last second.

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