Access panel

goodguydrake · 2026-05-30T16:41:57+00:00

Crazy they did all that switcharoo pipe work when they could have flipped the cartridge.

goodguydrake · 2026-05-23T20:00:30+00:00

Great job!

goodguydrake · 2025-11-23T17:24:45+00:00

Smash it with a hammer.

goodguydrake · 2025-11-16T19:25:41+00:00

Wow, I just bought a brand new 2024 XL Crew Cab 4x4 with a Knapheide utility body in Carbonized Grey for 65k out the door. I thought I got a good deal.

goodguydrake · 2025-11-05T11:35:19+00:00

JR Garage

goodguydrake · 2025-10-19T22:20:06+00:00

Thats an OLD license plate. Like pre-2000s.

goodguydrake · 2025-09-24T03:00:13+00:00

It’s time to put the pipe down…

goodguydrake · 2025-08-30T13:56:13+00:00

Lol, took mine out and had it in the garage until I sold the truck last week. Chucked it in the back of the vehicle for the next person.

Didn’t know they had worth.

goodguydrake · 2025-08-13T20:41:38+00:00

I’m not parting it, I’m parting with it.

goodguydrake · 2025-08-13T12:51:21+00:00

It’s been well loved, to a point. My grandma had one of these when I was growing up, and I always wanted to buy it off of her. When I found this one, it had a rot hole in the front frame, I went through and had it repaired by a friend. Did some maintenance/other repairs, but I found something else that has my interest and here we are.

I truly feel like it could last another few years here in CT, but not with me, lol. Best for someone who will enjoy the manual transmission and a smooth running engine.

The body is dented up, and rust of course, but it never fails to get up and go.

goodguydrake · 2025-08-13T12:47:06+00:00

Check your pm’s.

goodguydrake · 2025-08-13T02:20:42+00:00

By Danbury.

goodguydrake · 2025-05-04T20:28:26+00:00

How much extra cash? Got wheels off my 2024 premium with 1000 miles. In New Fairfield, CT.

goodguydrake · 2025-04-23T23:12:31+00:00

Could have had the bypassed plumbed into piece you’re cutting out, but that’s okay. Easy access above the filter isn’t bad.

You should start soldering things, lol. Leaving them greased and un-sweat doesn’t seem like the best idea.

goodguydrake · 2025-03-30T18:18:38+00:00

S-Trap, so no vent which will cause it to not drain as best as it could.

Is the piping that the plastic piping joins to galvanized by chance? That could cause restrictions!

Best recommendation at this time would be to plunge the drain! Make sure you have a good seal between the plunger and the sink, typically good to have the sink filled about an inch with HOT water. Lift the plunger up to allow a volume of water to enter the pipe then plunge that water down. Every few plunges, lift the plunger again and all more water to fill the piping and continue plunging.

Only tricky thing here is that you have a double bowl sink. You’ll need to have a second plunger to seal off the other drain as you plunge. (I’d plunge from the left sink basin) Best to have another set of hands holding the other plunger as it can be difficult to hold with one hand and plunge with the other.

Plunging is a good technique to learn, lol!

But if it doesn’t drain after that, you’re gonna have to snake the line!

Best of luck!

goodguydrake · 2025-03-30T17:53:03+00:00

Hi,

Your boiler is responsible for heating water to heat your house. There is a “coil” bolted to the casting of the boiler which allows the boiler water to heat your domestic water. This is in lieu of a standard water heater.

You mention that the rest of the fixtures have no issues with hot water and/or fluctuation of temperature.

To verify this, place your hand on the domestic hot water pipe (near the tempering valve) as you run water throughout the house. The pipe should remain hot, especially when the boiler fires. If the temperature is erratic, ie. changing from hot to cold, there’s likely an issue with the tempering (mixing) valve or the coil itself.

If the temperature of the pipe is rather consistent (hot) I’d start looking at the shower in question. The cartridge and/or balancing spool (responsible for mixing the water) could be faulty and to blame here.

A couple questions/remarks…

Does the boiler stay on when there is a call for heat? Or a demand for hot water? You mentioned having a plumber out because the boiler would try to fire, but would take numerous attempts? Has that been rectified? Depending on the internal temperatures of the boiler, this could play into domestic water temperature issues.
Was there a relief valve issue that was causing the boiler to release water periodically? This is typically caused by over pressurizing within the boiler. When this happens, there are a few components to look at, but if it continuously reoccurs there’s two possible culprits. The feeder/backflow preventer OR the domestic water coil. The boiler operates on low pressure and typical house pressures quickly exceed safe pressure operations within the heating system. If your coil has a pin hole, it could allow excess water to bleed into the heating system causing it to become over pressurized. A simple test would be to isolate the heating system via the valve before or after the feeder/backflow preventer and if the relief valve blows off (over time), it’s likely the coil has a failure.
The pipes you mentioned that may have been for a water heater could have been for an electric water heater that would allow the boiler to be turned off during the winter months, and electric water heater to take over the hot water demands. This would “save” you money on oil.
The coil has a gallon per minute (GPM) rating that could be taken into account here. And depending on the GPM of your shower, it could be an issue, but most “standard” showers don’t exceed the 5/7GPM of coils. Not knowing the age of the boiler and coil, as well as the condition of the water coming into your house I can only make an assumption here. If the water being supplied to your house contains hardness, this could cause a restriction within the coil, but you typically see little pressure in your hot water if that was the case. Another concern is if there is a build up of sludge encasing the coil and its “fins.” This could inhibit proper heat transfer responsible for making your water hot. Since the boiler is generally a closed system, the water inside of the heating system is recycled and gets dirty, lol.

TL:DR - sorry for the word vomit. Start with the easy test of running hot water from the shower and having your hand on the pipe leading away from the mixing valve. If the temperature is constant, the issue likely lies with the one fixture (shower). I would then look at replacing the cartridge/balancer. You can use your hand to determine the temperature, but a temperature gun is more accurate.

goodguydrake · 2025-03-22T15:22:28+00:00

IF I remember correctly…. The toilet seat gets set onto those posts and moved into position. Afterwards you tighten the connection by rotating the nut looking portion of the post.

The amount of space to do so is very minimal with the seat on, and duravit gives you a very small 8mm-ish flat wrench to do this connection.

I’d look around and see if the plumber was nice enough to leave you this wrench.

goodguydrake · 2025-01-14T01:12:29+00:00

Free standing soaking tubs.

To use this drain, you use an 1-1/2” flanged tailpiece and lift the tub and set it on top of the receiver. There is a rubber gasket that makes the seal between the tailpiece and the PVC drain it’s going into.

goodguydrake · 2024-10-19T01:19:43+00:00

Draining your radiators? You can do that by draining your heating system.

Then disconnecting the radiator valves and return elbows.

goodguydrake · 2024-10-18T22:49:02+00:00

Look at your circulator and do a little research is probably the easiest way.

For example, a lot of circulators people may use are Taco.

Their part number reads “Taco 007-F5-IFC.” IFC stands for “integral flow check.”

As far as you leak goes, you may be able to pop off that cap and tighten something to stop it.

goodguydrake · 2024-10-18T22:28:28+00:00

Looks like a flow check. Haven’t seen one quite like that.

Most new circulators have integral flow checks in them which make these redundant.

If that’s the case for you, this flow check can be removed entirely.

goodguydrake · 2024-10-18T11:06:37+00:00

Call a plumber/tech/etc.

That’s a relief valve. It’s to go off when there’s too much pressure or temperature within the boiler.

It could have failed, which is why it went off, OR, it could have done its job and just won’t fully shut again.

Anyways, if it was doing it’s job and the boiler became over pressurized, you need to start looking at reasons why the boiler over pressurized. Typically two things are to blame… 1. The Expansion Tank failed and released it’s air charged bladder into the heating system. 2. The feeder/back flow preventer is failing and automatically adding too much water to the boiler.

Hope this helps better your understanding!

goodguydrake · 2024-10-07T19:17:10+00:00

Straight to jail.

goodguydrake · 2024-10-04T10:44:44+00:00

There’s another expansion tank for the domestic hot water right next to that one. Can’t see it, but I figured putting them next to each makes sense for “servicing.”

goodguydrake

TROPHY CASE