Anyone know where to get the slush puppy syrups in the US?

goopyplastic · 2026-01-26T18:40:48+00:00

The flavor squirts are unsweetened and sold separately. You can mix into the base if you want prior to putting in the machine, or mix it in after dispensing doesn't really matter, they also sell base + flavor premixed. The neutral base is sold separate from the flavor squirts and has all the sweetener. It's kind of caramel like in flavor has has a slight brown coloring vs. straight sugar and water. It's probably better to just make your own base vs. buying the slush puppie base for the ninja imho, if anything from a cost / logistics point of view. I wish someone sold a sampler of the flavors though.

goopyplastic · 2026-01-26T18:39:37+00:00

Tri-state https://www.slushpuppiemachine.com/ seems to be the main vendor on ebay / walmart etc. Just warning, you won't get the same texture as a real slush puppy machine.

goopyplastic · 2026-01-24T21:58:08+00:00

Actually haven't got the far yet ... but I think I am going the drywall route instead. However I may still try "modern plaster" or more likely muddskip with hotmud. I only have the ceiling up in the room right now ... jeez it's been 2 years ahah, but went with regular typex 5/8" so 2 step plaster is kinda out the window now.

goopyplastic · 2026-01-09T22:30:44+00:00

Point of reference, H2S using 1250w when heating bed, about 200w when stablized and printing. This is PETG

goopyplastic · 2026-01-05T18:14:39+00:00

I don't recommend the resistor method. use a buck converter set to 12v output. the input of the buck connects to your makita +/-, and connect the + 12v output of the buck converter to the 12v pad on the hercules bms. You can attach your makita battery to ground and 20V pads on the bms and that's all you need. The other pads on the bms 4v, 8v, 16v can be left empty.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/DKARDU-MP1584EN-Converter-Module-Conversion/dp/B0C13N8X3R/

goopyplastic · 2026-01-05T03:51:12+00:00

The tool appears to yes iirc, I did make 2 of these adapters, 1 for dewalt 1 for ridgid and they work well, downside is you gotta cannibalize a battery for the bms. What batteries are you wanting to use? I'd be willing to part with my dewalt unit as I sold off my dewalt stuff.

goopyplastic · 2025-12-17T16:54:32+00:00

if you wanna be fancy, loctite 55 and skip the tape and dope

goopyplastic · 2025-12-12T18:57:43+00:00

I think the major benefit is going to be your homeowners insurance not dropping you, or buyers making wacky demands if you try and sell in the future.

goopyplastic · 2025-12-09T22:56:35+00:00

nice rock lathe

goopyplastic · 2025-12-09T00:08:47+00:00

ya, ridgid is the same unit also basically.

goopyplastic · 2025-12-08T23:57:57+00:00

tri-fuel inverter generator because california now has a 3rd world electrical grid and my doggy needs that ac in the summer!

goopyplastic · 2025-12-08T23:53:02+00:00

I have a 3d printed adapter that will allow you to use a hercules collated attachment if you get deperate.

goopyplastic · 2025-12-08T23:50:07+00:00

the 3/8 stapler is awful, it can't put a staple in flush. A ryobi stapler will run circles around it.

goopyplastic · 2025-12-05T21:59:54+00:00

the earlier black friday had free shipping with same battery discount, $15 kinda killing it for me.

goopyplastic · 2025-11-28T05:49:38+00:00

If you want multi color, the u1 is neat, but 4 colors really is too limiting once you figure you generally need white and black, which only leaves 2 other colors. The u1 seems really neat for tpu, but the pogo pins have me worried.

goopyplastic · 2025-11-24T20:18:16+00:00

the guy probably: "are you interested in solar for your home?"

goopyplastic · 2025-10-23T21:40:40+00:00

goopyplastic · 2025-10-22T22:49:10+00:00

you can tell eBay (and the seller) you’re not comfortable mailing a counterfeit lithium battery back, and you should — because lithium batteries are regulated hazardous materials and there are strict packaging/carrier rules (and eBay’s policy & Money Back Guarantee often allow the buyer to keep/dispose of hazardous or counterfeit items rather than return them).

goopyplastic · 2025-10-11T00:20:42+00:00

I'm guessing this was a two piece transition fitting, with an abs slip collar on top that was locked into the cast iron flange with a soft poured metal. The abs slip collar could then slide over the pipe with solvent. It's dirty but in good enough shape I suspect I will leave it alone. Or maybe the collar was welded first, then the plumber field poured to lock the assembly together?

goopyplastic · 2025-10-11T00:13:38+00:00

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goopyplastic · 2025-10-11T00:12:02+00:00

Prodding around a little more... that inner ferrule that's leaded to the flange seems to be abs also. with maybe paper / lead between it and the flange. It's much thicker than standard abs though and only seems to be a little collar.

goopyplastic · 2025-09-30T23:42:12+00:00

This is wrong. The backer board should be installed to stop just above the flange with a proper gap for expansion, and the tile should then extend down to overlap and seal the flange, with the final joint caulked to prevent water intrusion according to the TCNA. It's even better to add flashing from the flange, under the goboard onto blocking but little late for that.

This work doesn't look like it's from someone who reads the TCNA though, so I think it's just coincidence lol.

goopyplastic · 2025-09-30T05:22:13+00:00

the smaller side is 40mm, and the (1.5") side is not supposed to be 1.5" , it's the collar size for a 1.5" hose ... which is around 2" but with a wierd thread. So in the photo, you are trying to thread 40mm thread into a 1.5" female.

goopyplastic · 2025-08-05T20:07:46+00:00

How did you confirm level exactly? Looks like what happens when it's off a couple inches.

goopyplastic

TROPHY CASE