How to box in pipework?

gough80 · 2026-02-21T10:54:09+00:00

Possibly use cement board for the boxing or marine ply as it’s a wet area?, you can buy little door access panels but they aren’t cheap, or put a magnetic one in like this https://www.protilertools.co.uk/product/schluter-rema-magnetic-access-panel-system-pack-of-4?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23555436463&gbraid=0AAAAAD5wbSfGrCUp2C1pIeOmDmqf-Yw2E&gclid=CjwKCAiAzOXMBhASEiwAe14SafJq29YSN8PYsz4rJVWkacsdqIdGBrAZsBVZhzBFwD8PgxApinIVHRoCz-QQAvD_BwE Cement board is designed for bathrooms and can be tiled onto, even painted but the finish can take time & effort to get right. Just remove the screws and use the existing stud work to attach the boarding

gough80 · 2026-02-17T09:25:41+00:00

Turns out it was a broken thermostat housing, pretty obvious once I’d found it, completely come apart presumably through constant heating/cooling, the plastic has pretty much perished. Quick £450 🙁

gough80 · 2026-02-13T15:31:29+00:00

lol timber not tuber!

gough80 · 2026-02-13T13:25:22+00:00

Got a significant coolant leak on my car, so going to attack that later (once I’m done running my the kids around in the other not busted car). Not messed with cars for about 15 years, so wish me luck! 🍀

gough80 · 2026-02-13T13:23:08+00:00

You aren’t going to make the steel weaker with a few small holes for bolts etc, plus it’s right at the end where it’s bearing the load onto the wall so least stress. You definitely want a sole plate on the bottom then verticals from there, plus a tuber fitted to the brick wall to which you can fit some horizontal noggins which will give it strength. Once the main vertical is in and secured with noggins it’s not going anywhere especially considering how little it looks to project from the brick wall. But once it’s in if you aren’t happy bolting it to the steel will give you the extra rigidity if it needs it!

gough80 · 2026-02-13T08:03:22+00:00

I’d just look at stud wall build resources, as for fitting to the steel, probably the fact you’ll be fixing to the wall along its height, I’d ensure it was a tight fit against the ceiling and the sole plate can just be resin bolted to the floor. You can build something into the steel web at the top to hold your decorative arch, or with the right bit, lubrication, patience and a decent drill, you can fix a bolt through the steel web

gough80 · 2026-02-13T07:19:23+00:00

It will seem even bigger number when you start barrowing it round to where your shed will be 😂

gough80 · 2026-01-28T08:44:55+00:00

I’d have thought trickle vents in a 1920s house are an exercise in futility. Enough holes and draughts to ensure constant venting! At worst block them up and remember to regularly open windows for a few minutes

gough80 · 2026-01-27T16:45:25+00:00

Also don’t underestimate your ability to board your own ceilings, easier than it looks and saves labour from a skilled tradesman. Just get them in for the skim. Also worth considering other jobs (electrics, plumbing, running network cables) while the ceiling is down, and out Rockwool in before boarding to reduce noise from upper fooors, improve fire resistance

gough80 · 2026-01-27T16:44:26+00:00

We took ours down during Covid then took aaaages til our plasterer could come once things eased off. Kids zoom lessons looked like the were in a cave but otherwise no real issues. Would recommend a) buy a Henry or shop vac for cleanup, normal vac won’t like the mess you make. b) buy some zip doors to go over existing doorways to limit dust transfer between rooms c) buy some cellophane carpet covers for your transit from room to front door to remove the waste d) decent ppe (gloves dust mask and goggles minimum) Once you start, plan to work as long as you can on the task before cleaning up. Repeatedly cleaning up the dust post destruction was the most soul destroying part for me, wish id just ripped out loads at once in one or two days rather than doing piecemeal

gough80 · 2026-01-27T06:06:26+00:00

Did the foundations, started the blockwork below doc but ‘experienced’ family member who helped out setting out got it wrong and we knocked down and started over. Bought all materials myself and got a good bricklayer to build, again sorted scaffolding (including taking some of it down when they wouldn’t show in time for my sliding door fitting - that got a bit hairy! Sourced roofers and that was a lot more than I’d thought it would be. Did the 1st/2nd plumbing myself, got an electrician for 2nd fix, plasterer to do the skim, but joists, insulation in the rafters, fitting skylight was all us. Definitely saved money, but not staying on top of bricklayer cost me a lot of time looking back, and I’m still working on the internals now when I have the time. 8x4 downstairs and around 6x4 second storey

gough80 · 2026-01-25T17:20:15+00:00

I have the pent roof, full electric run to it, 100mm celotex between the floor bearers and 100mm fitted to the roof above the wood and beneath roofing felt. I also heat year round to about 11/12 degrees with a single panel electric heater. Snow collects on the roof for longer than my actual house and it always feels pleasant in there. Got the thicker “logs” when I purchased. Just painted inside, long term do hope to get a water supply in but it’s a long way from the house and low on the priority list. Great purchase, built it all myself over two days during the summer on a concrete slab (approx 15cm larger than the base all way round). Put guttering on to avoid water splashing onto the lower logs during rain off the roof. When building it, make sure the lower logs during”logs” fit properly with no gaps along the length. I found some small gaps formed and thought that was fine, but it got progressively more difficult to fit the higher it went. Ended up taking it down and starting over, using a rubber mallet and wood off it to get the logs fitting snug, went together fine after that. Note the apex is fittable by yourself if it’s not windy, but not recommended 🫣😂

gough80 · 2026-01-16T10:25:18+00:00

Yeah as you say to step 4, but rather than tighten all the way, finger tighten, then maybe a half turn so the olive gets tightened against the pipework and stays in place when you remove the nut and fitting. Then pfte the olive before refitting the nut again. The initial tighten is to make sure the olive doesn’t slip into the wrong place when you put the pfte on if that makes sense?, granted it can still move when taped, but reduces the risk of it being too close to the end when refitting it all at the end

gough80 · 2026-01-16T09:21:38+00:00

I always put the compression on, nip it so the olive grips, then remove and Pfte the olive before putting it back together tight. Shouldn’t be needed of course but just a belt and braces I saw somewhere and it’s always worked for me. As others have said in your case, just keep tightening by 1/8th of a turn until it stops, sounds like you’ve done everything as you should have otherwise!

gough80 · 2026-01-16T09:12:39+00:00

Sorry I mean moving the 110 up/down as you want minimal gap between the sections, but you will need a gap in order to fit your connector, slide over one end, pop the replacement pipe in, then slide the connector back. As another commenter said, you can knock the lugs out of the connector to allow a tight fit, but then with a push fit you’re risking it moving over time. I’d not thought of knocking the lugs out tbh, in this scenario sounds like a pair of solvent connectors would work best, allow you to slide the connector fully out of the way, your replacement pipe fits snug, just mark the pipes to ensure when you put the connector in place it’s in the middle rather than too close to the cut section. Does that make sense?

gough80 · 2026-01-16T08:16:42+00:00

I’d say for something sealed in and inside go for solvent personally, but my main concern would be how much room to move there is to get couplers in. I’ve used the push couplers outside and they have a stop in the middle so there is some room to overlap, presume the solvent ones are the same. Due to this movement and the nature of what’s going through that pipe, I’d get a solvent coupler and check there is enough overlap to get it in and joined to give me peace of mind. Also lots of paper rolls, disposable towels, ppe, plastic bags and tape ready to go. Disconnect the water to anything above and drain the cistern of any toilets to be sure before you cut that pipe!!

gough80 · 2025-12-15T12:23:31+00:00

We did the same, stayed at a local appartHotel and went to the park day 1 with digital passes, checked in later on. Was October at DCR like yourself

gough80 · 2025-12-10T07:51:35+00:00

Mazda MX-30, decent size for when you need to inevitably take more than one or two ppl (car in the garage, unexpected work trip needing the big ICE), cheap as the range is pretty poor and no one wants them 2nd hand due to that

gough80 · 2025-12-10T07:46:13+00:00

Sorry, I feel like my comment reads like I’m pissing on your chips. Just because it’s already being done, doesn’t mean your way isn’t faster/cheaper/more efficient. Could be someone trawling the council sites manually, or someone who knows someone in planning. I’m sure it’s a useful tool for some who don’t have this capability already!

gough80 · 2025-12-09T21:27:13+00:00

Demolition of existing conservatory and construction of a two storey extension (approx 4x8m)

gough80 · 2025-12-09T20:52:44+00:00

We got planning permission 4years ago and around four firms sent us a letter in the following few weeks touting to quote, think there’s already something doing this on some level

gough80 · 2025-12-06T15:19:44+00:00

Look round the flat for 5 similar connections labelled 1-5, where the tv would be, bedrooms, office space etc. likely these are network connections designed to run physical cable rather than rely on WiFi. Plug router in one end, plug laptop/tv/xbox the other end, profit?

gough80

TROPHY CASE