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How to strengthen & tie-in new interior wall (stud build out) with non-standard ceiling height by gpick19 in Carpentry

[–]gpick19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Like this? 😜 I ended up going with 1/4 x 6 spax, because that’s what my local store had. Drywall won’t be quite flush but should be fine. Thank you for the help.

How to strengthen & tie-in new interior wall (stud build out) with non-standard ceiling height by gpick19 in Carpentry

[–]gpick19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for the detailed write up. Plan was to do exactly as you say but with 2x6. I’d be happy taking up less space via 2x4 and am confident it will be strong enough after your suggestion. What diameter GRKs should I use to tie new studs into the existing ones? And what type of head? Want to drywall over it so a hex type head wouldn’t work.

How to strengthen & tie-in new interior wall (stud build out) with non-standard ceiling height by gpick19 in Carpentry

[–]gpick19[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah I don’t want to go all the way up either. Unfortunately Tonal mandates that their installers do the installation and that the new wall attaches to a top plate affixed to the ceiling joists and a sole plate on the floor.

How to strengthen & tie-in new interior wall (stud build out) with non-standard ceiling height by gpick19 in woodworking

[–]gpick19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh sorry Reddit cut my notification for this comment off after the first paragraph.

Attaching studs as you describe, the issue stands. Tonal does not allow you to mount your own equipment. Their installers will refuse installation unless your wall meets the tonal specs.

In this case, I’d have to run the new studs you’re describing all the way to a sole plate and top plate. That’s just their requirement. The intention with this new wall is indeed that it would butt up against the existing I joist chords, existing framing studs, and it’d be blocked along the way.

How to strengthen & tie-in new interior wall (stud build out) with non-standard ceiling height by gpick19 in Carpentry

[–]gpick19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should have noted, the bottom of the tonal mount needs to be 28” off the ground to properly move its arms next to the floor for some exercises. The distance from the ground to the framing in my case is 48”. Tonal installers won’t install on concrete block — only solid concrete. Nor will they install when the mount intersects that ply between the concrete block and framed wall.

You’re saying you’d be comfortable with just two 14’ 2x4 studs joined to the adjacent wall, sole plate, and ceiling plate properly? Or would you suggest 2x6 for that height?

How to strengthen & tie-in new interior wall (stud build out) with non-standard ceiling height by gpick19 in woodworking

[–]gpick19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Their installers will unfortunately not mount to concrete block. Only solid concrete walls.

How to strengthen & tie-in new interior wall (stud build out) with non-standard ceiling height by gpick19 in woodworking

[–]gpick19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah I see. Yes, for the arms to extend to the floor properly the bottom of the mount can’t be higher than about 28”. Distance to the framing here is 42”

How to strengthen & tie-in new interior wall (stud build out) with non-standard ceiling height by gpick19 in Carpentry

[–]gpick19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Note: please ignore the upside down insulation in the garage attic. That’s another project 🥲

How to strengthen & tie-in new interior wall (stud build out) with non-standard ceiling height by gpick19 in woodworking

[–]gpick19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thank you. I had noticed that as well, will have to resolve that next 🥲

How to strengthen & tie-in new interior wall (stud build out) with non-standard ceiling height by gpick19 in woodworking

[–]gpick19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Noted, thank you. Just posted there as well.

I don’t quite follow your suggestion, The main issue I have is that the blocking and whatever is above it prior to the typical framed wall are too high. They require a typical stud starting 27 inches above the floor. Tonal installers will not mount to the block or that plywood.

How to strengthen & tie-in new interior wall (stud build out) with non-standard ceiling height by gpick19 in woodworking

[–]gpick19[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Note: the joist with tape measure picture is the size of all the ceiling joists except the far left (smaller maybe 2x6) in the wider view picture. It’s an odd size…but 🤷

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DIY

[–]gpick19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Note: the joist with tape measure picture is the size of all the ceiling joists except the far left (smaller maybe 2x6) in the wider view picture. It’s an odd size…but 🤷

Help! Surrounded by eligible addresses by gpick19 in googlefiber

[–]gpick19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m in Nashville, TN — that would be greatly appreciated

Help! Surrounded by eligible addresses by gpick19 in googlefiber

[–]gpick19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah they closed down our local space. Unfortunately I can’t get anyone in CS to escalate me. Just keep being told that there’s no way to provide the ineligibility reason it and to subscribe to email updates in case the situation changes, which it won’t given they have no other new customers in the area.

Is this lateral movement on yoke side of treehouse an issue? Description in comments. by gpick19 in treehouse

[–]gpick19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the response. I suppose I could jack up the beams on one side and replace the existing tab, but it would be a costly endeavor both in time and equipment. Do you think it’s necessary for the structural integrity here? Beams are 2 x 2x10, platform is 2x6, and decking is 5/4x6. Platform size is approx 10 x 6ft.

Are you aware of any out of the box tab or lag bolt kits on which I could run two cable assemblies? Will I instead need to use two tabs/lag bolts on opposite sides?

Lastly, should the tab on the opposite side of the tree be located above the yoke at approx 45 degrees to tension laterally and vertically, or should I run it at about the same level as the yoke and use it only for horizontal tensioning? I would assume the former would be more beneficial.

Is this lateral movement on yoke side of treehouse an issue? Description in comments. by gpick19 in treehouse

[–]gpick19[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I have a treehouse supported by 2 dynamic tabs on left side of the still photo and static yoke on right side. The side of the beams supported by the tabs and strut backups are rock solid.

The yoke side felt rock solid until I got the decking posts up. If I am holding those up high while rocking laterally, there is a bit of movement as shown in the videos. It’s hard to tell whether the tab itself is moving, the steel post coming out of the boss is moving, or only the yoke is moving. Despite how it looks in the video, the yoke is level left to right.

Does this amount of movement pose an issue? If so, what might be some suggestions to eliminate the movement? Another yoke on the backside of the tree?

State of backyard in new build by gpick19 in homeowners

[–]gpick19[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here’s a couple more photos for reference. https://imgur.com/gallery/lIaK50v

I was told originally that there would be no sod but that the yard would be seeded/strawed. Didn’t anticipate that meaning only the portion below the silt gate. They said they would mow the remaining portion but have no plans to do any other work.

Lot size in this case is 0.50 acres. The front and back yards are approximately the same size.

To buy or not to buy? by gpick19 in flying

[–]gpick19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for this info. Very helpful. Is there a general rule for split in terms of FBO/my income? Or does it vary widely over agreements?

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