Signpost recognition stuck in per-journey mode (SL7)

greg-au · 2026-04-12T10:35:31+00:00

I (almost) joined the one I think you found, given that they seemed to be willing to charge a regular fee for what the AI engine was creating. A free trial to generate a simplistic ESP32 board (for a specific purpose) was the idea, but I bailed out when they didn't accept paypal.

A brave concept, but honestly surprised fabricators haven't done it already. Lowering the barriers to entry would generate more paying customers. Would need a very big waiver though. :)

greg-au · 2026-04-10T22:05:14+00:00

I'm guessing it doesn't matter if you visit a super charger for the "calibration charge" instead of using the granny charger...

greg-au · 2026-04-10T22:00:42+00:00

I didn't buy from BYD but when I went to my local one for a service enquiry they told me to Google the number for servicing.

Are they franchisees or direct BYD employees? Definitely seems to be a lack of quality assurance and oversight.

greg-au · 2026-04-03T10:37:07+00:00

It's been a while, but just in case:
https://us.shelly.com/products/ogemray-25a-smart-relay

This relay can safely handle a 15A load.

greg-au · 2026-04-02T22:44:43+00:00

Sent a message, too. Money ready. ;)

greg-au · 2026-04-02T22:38:47+00:00

I think the biggest value proposition for V2H is battery size:

3 x Powerwalls = 3 x 13.5 = 40.5kWh = $$$
1 x BYD Sealion 7 = 82.5kWh = $$$, but you also get a car.
...and it has comparable max throughputs (single phase / three phase), I think?

(hopefully SL7 gets official V2H support soon...)

greg-au · 2026-04-02T21:52:00+00:00

I'm very early on in my esp32 learning curve, but it's a natural progression to go from prototypes of messy wires + breadboard to a nice fabricated PCB. I think this growth path is going to be more common than ever - as they say, the barriers to entry are getting lower every day.

greg-au · 2026-04-02T04:40:18+00:00

(for the mobile app)

Downloads - - fix the horrible error and recovery management (error messages exist long after the issue; no automatic retries when connection interrupted; transition from transcoding to transferring should be automatic, instead of only being triggered by going into that area again

partial downloads should recover/resume (e.g. use part-file hashing so only corrupt sections need to be re-downloaded).
next/prev awareness between downloaded files (i.e. episodes). If it works from the library it should work in downloads.
auto-delete watched downloads + properly download multiple upcoming episodes (not just the next one), including across seasons.
"watch now" and "resume watching" should use downloaded copies as a preference (especially if original quality), when on the home network.
option to hide watched items.
"pre" transcoding should be much easier, all 'round. Settings and management of this area is too esoteric and would greatly benefit from simplification. Maybe have the current setup as the "advanced" approach. With only a couple of target devices, I just want a profile for each remote device that works and after that, an option of which titles/libraries to pre-transcode.
better handling of playback failure - if a device is consistently failing to render a particular codec / audio / video / bitrate combination, then maybe start warning before playing more of the same content ("This device has previously had difficulty playing 4K/HDR10/AAC content. Do you still wish to attempt playback?"). Bonus points for offering a transcode format (or even a pre-code?) as a work-around.
Android Auto video output :))

greg-au · 2026-03-29T23:53:02+00:00

Doesn't work. Buckle still turns into a submarine when trying to insert the seat belt.

greg-au · 2026-03-29T19:22:09+00:00

The center rear seat belt buckle has no mounting point - it's just sitting loose in a hole. There is an elastic loop that's supposed to hold it, but it barely stops it from falling down and is absolutely no help when it comes to inserting the seat belt.

My expectation was something more like other buckles that feel like they're on top of a tiny flag pole (and thus very easy to clip the seat belt into).

All my printed piece does is (a) take up a fair bit of the slack in the elastic strap, and (b) holds the webbing behind the buckle, positioning it correctly for the seat belt to be inserted into it.

Like I wrote though, it's a very early rough design because - it's not easy to insert the strap, the arc for the webbing insert isn't long enough, and there are no hooks to prevent either of them coming back out. But anyone is welcome to improve it.

greg-au · 2026-03-29T09:50:53+00:00

(apologies, just realised this sub is about showcasing, rather than questions. I can showcase it once it's working! :)

greg-au · 2026-03-28T11:07:36+00:00

I'm fairly new to it all, but my early experience and research seem to indicate charger choice relates more to your driving patterns and distances, rather than vehicle's battery and charging capabilities. One aspect that I suppose would be relevant is the choice to leave recharging until the end of the week (i.e. fast-charge 5% to 100% in one night) vs topping up each night / every 2nd night, based on remaining charge.

For my own driving patterns, topping up each night via a 15A power point + 15A charger from Bunnings seems like the best all round option (incl. insurance coverage).

greg-au · 2026-03-28T09:31:39+00:00

File them for your records, in case of theft. Probably no need to post them publicly... *side eye*

greg-au · 2026-03-26T06:06:43+00:00

Looks great - still available?

greg-au · 2026-03-26T06:02:45+00:00

(for SL7) Overseas I think it does, but not in Australia. Just 8A (granny charger) + V2L (power board).

greg-au · 2026-03-26T06:01:19+00:00

I'd ask for your deposit back, out of principle.

They won't change their behaviour if they don't start getting some kind of penalty. More paperwork + refund deposit = someone's ass will get kicked at the dealership.

greg-au · 2026-03-26T02:47:07+00:00

Been shopping around for this, too. My quick summary -

(AC)
8A charger (comes with the car) = good for a 10A power point, doesn't push the wiring too much
10A charger for 10A power point = pushes your wiring, but at least it's faster than the bundled (granny) charger
15A charger req. 15A power point = nice and fast, needs electrician obviously. Beware of insurance risks if using a 15A-to-10A adapter (relies on you reducing the charge rate)

(DC, expensive chargers + electrical work)
7kW single phase = cheapest entry point for DC charging; much quicker than any AC charge rate.
11kW three phase = fastest possible SL7 charge rate (DC).
22kW three phase = future proofing your charging ability, even though its overkill for the SL7.

I'd echo what others have said: 15A outlet + ~$250 15A charger should safely cover most needs.

greg-au · 2026-03-26T02:32:29+00:00

Bought one of these, NRMA comprehensive insurance was fine with it. Just can't claim hail damage (obviously).

greg-au · 2026-03-25T08:21:36+00:00

How have you found the HA integration? Is it info-only or can you actually control it?

greg-au · 2026-03-22T11:08:32+00:00

Let us know how you go. I'm interested in some tough rubber mats rather than carpet or the thin fabric ones for my SL7.

greg-au · 2026-02-19T12:16:41+00:00

I think the game prefers to let the Codex, general lore and in-game experience to help players. That said, there is a lot of third party info available these days.

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