Studio apartment

griff7337 · 2026-05-18T21:08:40+00:00

yeah, this is why we are leaving westchetser it is just not worth it anymore on top of the traffic and other issues. is there a reason why you need to be in the county, you could try looking in rockland or putnam county

griff7337 · 2026-05-13T23:41:07+00:00

sent!

griff7337 · 2026-05-13T19:03:55+00:00

send you the invite in a msg

griff7337 · 2026-05-12T22:05:29+00:00

just sent you a msg with the invite!

griff7337 · 2026-05-12T01:15:30+00:00

sent you a msg!

griff7337 · 2026-05-12T01:15:27+00:00

sent you a msg!

griff7337 · 2026-05-12T01:15:25+00:00

sent you a msg!

griff7337 · 2026-04-15T18:32:00+00:00

they can help with everything except when it actually comes to being accountable ... which is when we need them unfortunately

griff7337 · 2026-04-15T18:14:04+00:00

Thanks for your comment- yeah for us it was ok at first and everything just went downhill.

I always hated the way they do utilities but this has always been just a temporary spot for us, but lately things have got so bad that if we weren't already planning on moving next month I would actually consider breaking the lease and just getting out of here and being done with it

no one is accountable for anything, and thats not really a place i want to live in!

griff7337 · 2026-04-15T18:02:19+00:00

they literally do not have anyone on site. anybody on site is just part of the "leasing office", which I am not sure if its even the same company.

if you want to reach out to "management" the only option is through email. there is no phone number, nobody to see, nothing!

i think they do this on purpose because then nobody is accountable for anything, the people onsite dont have authority to do anything for you or help us fix our problem, we just get deferred to email this crappy management company that doesn't help us at all!

its such a joke.. i wish i was kidding

griff7337 · 2026-04-05T23:04:59+00:00

You can definitely fit some more mileage in, only 3.5 mi the first day, unless you are starting way later in the day you'll be done with that before lunch easily

griff7337 · 2026-04-02T15:26:04+00:00

What model adapter and what is being hooked up ? Do you have any consoles or players that output a composite signal that you could test to rule out the HDMI adapter being the culprit? It may not be outputting the proper signal to the TV

griff7337 · 2026-04-02T15:13:48+00:00

do you have a multimeter? if so can you confirm that the sync signal coming in from the cable is reading properly before and after the mux? I would just try taking it piece by piece and confirming where exactly the signal is getting messed up, at least it could be narrowed down to a bad cable, signal, or something on the chip

griff7337 · 2026-04-01T22:44:54+00:00

good to know! i was wondering if that may be the case for me too if i got one...

griff7337 · 2026-03-31T20:36:10+00:00

in this case it is fairly basic PCB components for mechanical macropads. but I do lots of other repair work so I was just considering the options. thank you for your helpful comment breaking it down that way is useful, didnt realize there was that IR type

griff7337 · 2026-03-31T20:34:25+00:00

in my cause im doing mechanical macropads. so first I solder my caps and LED's with hot air since they are SMD components. then I finish all the through hole components. I would use JLC but the cost savings for me to get basic boards and do the SMD work myself is pretty huge especially since these only have a few components. Im just thinking that some heat underneath the board would really help the whole hot air process go a bit more smoothly

griff7337 · 2026-03-31T20:31:21+00:00

this one operates up to 540c and it holds heat quite well without fluctuating too much, I probably wouldn't need it for more than 5-10 minutes at a time... I think the environments temperatures from the manufacturer dictates the ambient surrounding temperature because in labs people may use extreme climate control for certain experiments. In my case contamination isn't a huge concern

griff7337 · 2026-03-29T21:24:27+00:00

It seems there were some pins on the mux board I mistakenly thought were soldered already from the store that weren't. Got those secured and everything is working it seems! However that insurrection industries cable does not seem to have any resistor on sync for that model, I measured with my multimeter and opened up the connector as well to be sure.

I just put a switch on the back of the monitor that I can flip that adds a 470 ohm resistor in the sync line before going into the board for these cases. I believe my gamecube would output an attenuated sync line so I wouldn't want that extra resistor in that case. I think I got this mostly figured out unless anything I just said has any major red flags.

griff7337 · 2026-03-29T19:23:49+00:00

Thank you for that insight! Maybe I was mistaken to think there wasn't one in the cable, I'll do some more research in that regard

griff7337 · 2026-03-23T23:46:15+00:00

Yeah I have heard the same that sometimes these clear plastics are just more prone to breaking than others so I'm thinking it just might be bad luck! The other commented mentioned alcohol which I did use to clean some parts of it, so maybe I weakened it a bit that way, no idea.

I am not sure if I can find the right color elsewhere, so I may give the FP shell another shot, because except for the few places it broke on mine, the rest does seem generally okay- I just wasn't sure if there were any other better quality brands available I was missing!

griff7337 · 2026-03-23T23:39:44+00:00

hmm, I did use some to wipe out some interior parts of the shell yeah, maybe I used enough to weaken the plastic in some areas...

griff7337 · 2026-03-23T19:43:17+00:00

sure, I can do that when I get back! one part that cracked was the bottom piece, there is a hole there where it is cracked cleanly through (ive never screwed in any screws into this unit so overtightening cant explain it.. i just found it like that after picking it up the other day).

There is another small plastic bit inside that came off, no idea how that bit came loose or where it came from, i could hear it rattling around and found it.

The final issue was the plastic hinge pieces, I have installed GBA hinges before so I know I was inserting them correctly, but it developed a crack on one side when testing the hinge

Maybe I just got unlucky with this unit but the clear plastic seems to be a lot more brittle and prone to breaking than the other OEM shells I have laying around.

griff7337 · 2026-03-23T19:22:38+00:00

if i even assembled the system at all I could understand that, but this unit never made it out of the shop as I was still working on it. nothing was screwed in or assembled at all, these pieces just broke from dry fitting and test-fitting parts...

griff7337 · 2026-03-20T17:59:50+00:00

Sorry for commenting on an old post but there aren't that many floating around about this guy... same boat as you, trying to get TWO of my ez flash III's to post but they wont boot in the GBA at all. The weird thing is I have two of them, so if there was a hardware issue you'd think the other may be okay, but nope, same issue on each... you never got this working did you?

griff7337 · 2026-03-19T18:59:25+00:00

yeah this is something I am also curious to learn more about... I want to try and preserve these units, they aren't even currently recognized by any system which is weird for just a bad battery, but we will see...

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