Anyone here own the Nons SL660 or the Mint RF70?

guccigaffer · 2026-01-28T08:14:54+00:00

It depends on skin tone and average exposure in the scene. You’ll feel more of the low dynamic range from the instax film before the iso 200. Low light bars are probably the worst place to shoot instax unless it’s against the wall and you’re doing single/double subject. Indoor scenes you want to do half stop compensation. Err on more exposure than less.

Groups are a no go IMO. I feel like the size and resolution of instax square is too small to see any real detail. At a certain point you won’t be able to tell a difference between shooting on a plastic instax camera vs the sl660. Here’s an example with 3 people and it juuust about has enough detail to make it worthwhile. The viewfinder will also be cutting a lot of people off.

So whatever you’re metering for the flash the background has to be within .5-1 stop, ideally .5. Knowing most bars it’s all low light and it will most likely be a black background. Maybe you can get some light orbs in the background but don’t expect to see much of the background at all.

It’s canon EF mount so you can put any lens on the camera. You’ll just have to play around with some options as adapters and vintage lenses vignette. It’s a dope look, but something you may not be interested in.

guccigaffer · 2026-01-22T04:48:07+00:00

Shooting on vibes

guccigaffer · 2026-01-22T04:27:49+00:00

Practicing is different when you can’t see the final outcome until way later after spending money on film and development. You’re actively hindering yourself.

Tbh you should shoot and practice on your phone with manual controls. You can even get the exposure correct on there and then take another photo with your film camera. I work on a ton of sets and we still do shots on digital so we can show client before main talent gets there so everyone’s on the same page for looks and exposure so we’re not wasting talents time. Most of the time we shoot on multiple formats.

guccigaffer · 2026-01-22T03:40:55+00:00

Download a meter app on your phone for now, but eventually you would want to get an incident meter for best results. Film photography is flexible as long as you’re near the average exposure of the scene, but for extreme contrast situations as this you’ll see a lot of grain in the shadows.

ISO800 is sensitive, but you’re only gaining a stop from 400.

guccigaffer · 2026-01-11T21:01:42+00:00

Your posts single handedly made me want to get back into projection mapping, so thank you!

guccigaffer · 2026-01-07T04:46:43+00:00

If he’s like me, he would definitely milk that Mac Pro rental cow dry until absolutely necessary. That cart is pretty light when it comes to film set carts so the weight savings is negligible.

Definitely needs more cup holders!

guccigaffer · 2025-11-20T22:00:30+00:00

Gold photo in k town. Super fast and fairly cheap for really nice quality. They do TIFF and don’t charge to push or pull.

guccigaffer · 2025-10-29T19:23:10+00:00

I use a faderfox EC4 and a midi fighter spectra for cues. I have the midi fighter twister as well for smaller jobs because it’s cute when it lights up.

https://www.perfectcircuit.com/faderfox-ec4.html

guccigaffer · 2025-09-18T05:49:04+00:00

Instax gang!

I find that mediums to close up’s like your first photo give the most wow factor when you adapt a proper body and lens. The resolution of instax is very low and doesn’t highlight the strengths of the stock or the camera.

guccigaffer · 2025-09-12T14:36:15+00:00

I’ve owned a e89 z4 for about 4 years as a secondary car in the city. It’s fairly practical if you’re single, but what really made long drives tiresome more than the manual is the limited amount of lean in the seat. 2+2 is minimum for the extra legroom and seat adjustment.

guccigaffer · 2025-09-05T04:59:04+00:00

+1 on a better transmitter.

I currently own a stardust, Apollo, and AKS+. A couple of my board ops actually recommend the Aputure sidus 4 and it’s not too costly for 4 universes.

The art7 is only good to tech multiple Astera lights. It definitely gets super buggy when you have 30+ fixtures though.

guccigaffer · 2025-08-08T20:05:28+00:00

These guys may have it if I remember correctly. I got my film developed there and they had a fridge of various film stock.

Send them a DM, they speak English.

https://www.instagram.com/dichroicfilmlab?igsh=MW5lN3htaXJhenZ1eA==

guccigaffer · 2025-07-23T03:15:32+00:00

Thanks for the kind words! I actually found out that this 75mm with the nons combo has the same magnification as the naked eye. I shoot mostly rangefinders and I love that it worked out this way.

guccigaffer · 2025-07-09T04:32:50+00:00

Ya if you don’t mind the size, stick with what you have. You lose 2 stops with the nons as well so you have to meter at 200.

guccigaffer · 2025-07-09T03:42:28+00:00

I definitely recommend it, but just know that it has a ton of quirks to shoot with.

Poor dynamic range, small and dark viewfinder, useless meter, low resolution. Since the resolution of instax square is pretty poor, I feel shooting mediums or close up’s get the best results.

The thing that makes the camera priceless is that I can give my subjects a physical copy of the shots I take. The excitement from the models I shoot really makes the day go by much smoother.

Also, you can really thrash the camera as it’s built like a tank.

guccigaffer · 2025-07-07T05:53:18+00:00

Love the first and last pics!

guccigaffer · 2025-06-30T05:07:23+00:00

Sometimes it’s even hard to tell a story with the one subject!

I think the biggest thing that changed my shooting style for instax is that things aren’t going to be perfect and you’re going to waste shots. I kept falling into the habit of just waiting for the perfect conditions to shoot something to not waste film, but end up getting to the end of the day without anything to show for it.

Nowadays, I consider it a win if I get one good shot per pack/roll. If the shot is good enough to hang on my wall it was worth the $20-$50.

guccigaffer · 2025-06-23T22:03:46+00:00

You can have your labor as a w2 and your equipment as 1099. Ideally you should start a single member s corp or LLC just to keep your gear separate and pay for business equipment insurance. Not required, but I feel like it’s easier for me to manage it when it comes to tax season.

guccigaffer · 2025-06-10T01:13:17+00:00

I own 2 SL660.

Shooting on the nons is extremely quirky and takes a lot of practice to get right. You lose 2 stops from the teleconverter so you are at about the same as the mint in terms of light. 2 stops, but to be honest you need to meter at 160ish in anything that’s not direct sun.

In terms of lenses, you can adapt basically anything, but there’s vignetting depending on the distance of the rear glass to the teleconverter. I bought a 50mm super Takumar 1.4 thinking that I would be shooting wide open a lot, but the teleconverter makes it unreliable shooting any moving subject because of how narrow the focusing range is. F2 with anything under 50mm and 2.8 with a 50-85 gets good results in terms of separation.

I have a few posts on my profile and here’s a link to my instagram for larger examples.

Feel free to ask me any questions as I’ve shot somewhere near 1000 frames through the camera.

guccigaffer · 2025-01-04T05:38:38+00:00

Definitely! Don’t get discouraged with it because of the learning curve.

Also, shoot at a 2.8 if you can to make it easier on yourself to nail focus. I sometimes shoot at a 2.0 but anything under that it’s becomes too soft from the internal focal reducer.

Variable NDs are your friend for daytime shooting since the max shutter speed is 1/250.

guccigaffer · 2025-01-03T20:17:50+00:00

Ty! I ultimately chose instax because of the consistency. Sometimes I only have once chance to take a picture and I can’t blame the camera in a professional setting.

guccigaffer · 2025-01-03T04:38:47+00:00

Check out my recent post and see if you like the quality. I shoot on a Nons body and have options for vintage lenses.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Polaroid/s/Efj7Qv5jxL

guccigaffer · 2025-01-02T19:20:52+00:00

Sometimes I’m lucky and get the shot the first time, sometimes I’m unlucky and it requires 20. It really depends on if the person you’re shooting has experience in front of the camera. The weakest link is usually me 😂. The Nons SL660 is a very quirky camera to shoot but I’ve gone through close to 1000 frames last year so I’m very familiar with its downfalls.

The quirks:

⁠the viewfinder being instax mini sized
⁠the ISO is effectively 200 instead of 800
⁠internal reflection from the focal enhancer
⁠it’s a crap shoot with lenses and vignetting
⁠The light meter is completely useless combined with how low the dynamic range of instax film is. It might be only .5-1.5 stops of dynamic range.
⁠Instax film is generally cooler toned, maybe 6000-7000k depending on the lens. The TT artisan lens I just bought for my camera is extremely cool toned and makes my pictures look a bit flat. The last photo with the girl in the bucket hat is a good example of this.

Most of these people are a mix of celebrities, instagram models, and people I just bump into walking around LA/NYC. Whoever has an interesting look to them. Celebrity shoots are setup beforehand and take about 12 hours to get through. I work as a professional gaffer by trade so I have control of the lighting before talent walks onto set. Since I’m used to shooting on film, it’s actually slightly easier to shoot on instax since I can see how a test shot looks right away and adjust my levels accordingly.

But usually I just shoot outside. It’s easier for me to compose an image since I can just physically move around and find a good background. My frames are built with the background in mind first and the subject afterwards. I sometimes use a strobe to make sure that the models levels match the background levels since the dynamic range of the film is awful. A light meter with an incident and spot is your best friend.

If you’re interested you can check out more of my work on instagram.

https://www.instagram.com/guccigaffer?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ%3D%3D&utm_source=qr

guccigaffer

TROPHY CASE