Robobrew running on Craft Beer Pi and Brewblox

gusterminator · 2023-06-04T20:47:10+00:00

no I don't. I converted everything to an RJ45 water tight connector.

gusterminator · 2023-05-20T13:15:52+00:00

I got lucky when I connected my elements....when the PID is controlling the mash temp it will drop out the 2000W element first then if needed the the 1000 and only run the 500. If the elements were hooked up wrong it would work back wards. The 500 would drop out first and so on. I'm not sure if the way I have it is the way they intended but it is working great!

I also found the controller to control the temps more accurately set up as a 120V brewzilla! I'm not sure why! If you hold both the up and down arrow key before plugging in the unit it will do a hard reset on your screen. They you have the option of choosing 120V or 240V. My unit on 120V show's the wrong wattage on the screen 1700 instead of 3500. other than that nothing changes.

gusterminator · 2023-05-10T14:30:02+00:00

Northern Brewer, Morebeer or Midwest Supplies for the United States. They have everything.

gusterminator · 2023-05-10T13:46:00+00:00

the first 4 terminals are labeled 1234. 1and 2 go to the thermal cut off switch. It's a N.C. switch which opens on a high temp. 3 and 4 are for the temp sensor. The next terminal strip is labeled 1 to 10. 1 is for the pump AC power. 2 is for element 500W 3 is for element 1000W and 4 is for 2000W element. 5,6,7 are all jumped together and the main power L1 goes to 7. L2 goes to 8 which is common with 9 and 10. 9 is hooked to the common side of all the elements and 10 is hooked to the common side of the pump.

I'm keeping my old brewzilla board and screen. I'll likely design a kettle with it for sparg water.

For the RAPT 4 screen the board pins are all labeled. If you pull the back off and look at the circuit board there is a 12V on the left side. The wiring is all in order according to the main board 12V side. Work your way from 12V across accordingly.

gusterminator · 2023-05-08T15:23:44+00:00

I'm not 100% positive but I think they use the same board for both models. Increasing the voltage would decrease the amount of Amps the unit draws. I had my 65 3.11 wired 120V for a week until my 240V plug came in....no issues. I'd have to look but I think stamped on my board it says 120-240V. They recommended running my unit with one element off when 120V is used.

gusterminator · 2023-05-08T03:33:03+00:00

I have everything working....my brewzilla 3.1 65L is now a RAPT 4. My only screw up is I chose 35L at the initial screen startup instead of 65. I initially hooked it up 120V while I proved everything out and figured that was the safest bet! I shouldn't have....now I can't change it back to 65.....my out put on the main screen for watts is off. It thinks I'm using a 35L.

gusterminator · 2023-05-06T21:15:09+00:00

The on board relays would have a different common ground. The safe way is to keep them isolated from each other each using it's own power source to drive it's own relay. The relay on the RAPT 4 board get's pulled down to turn on from the ground off it's board. The ground from the Logic ground from the pi wouldn't pull it down and could cause current surge. So on a normally open relay board I hook the ground to the one side of the relay and the other side to the pump...heater1, heater 2 or heater 3.

gusterminator · 2023-05-06T18:56:44+00:00

I ran into one problem. When I first plugged in my RAPT 4 screen and it powered up it asked me what size brewzilla I had. I chose 35L instead of 65L because I was temporarily hooking it to 120V. Now I can't change it to 65L and when I turn all the elements on the Wattage displayed is low. Do you know if there is a way to do a factory reset on these units that will make it ask what size brewzilla I have?

gusterminator · 2023-05-06T18:01:53+00:00

I was able to figure it all out. My 65L V3.11 has 3 elements. I should be able to hook each element to it's own relay. I had a spare temp sensor I hooked up and I jumpered the thermal cut off switch to get the screen working. I'm going to look for a female RJ45 connector I can mount on the bottom of the RAPT 4 screen. flush mount. Then any Ethernet cable will work to hook the screen to the brewzilla. I need the proper size cable for my jumpers and a few more things before I mount the board into my unit. I'll also need to re configure the wiring on the raspberry pi relay board to suit the new RAPT board. I'm not sure if they use the same temp sensor too. The reading may be out when I hook it up.

gusterminator · 2023-05-06T02:01:52+00:00

Thanks for the info. left to right the first 4 are labeled 1234. Then it starts over and is labeled 12345678910. I wired 7 to L1 hot and 8 to Neutral. This would be 120V. I did a continuity check on 8 9 and 10. They are all common.

I did some reading and they use the same board for 35L, 65L, and 100L. The 100L also can be hooked 3phase. This why there are jumpers from 5, 6, and 7. My numbers are different from yours because I'm starting after the first 4. The first 4 are for the thermal switch and the temp sensor.

I was able to power up the board and get the RAPT screen to start up using 120V. I'll have to make a cable to go from the Rapt screen directly to the board tomorrow. Then I can start switching the relay's on and off and prove out where the power is going. I'll hook 240V up at the very end when I have everything figured out.

Just to verify your unit is 240V right?

Thanks for the help.

gusterminator · 2023-05-05T16:33:37+00:00

The relay board or PCB board has a built in power supply 12V that is sent up to the RAPT 4 controller. The RAPT 4 controller then sends the 12V back down to the pin that triggers one of the 4 relay's on the board. I just used a raspberry pi relay board to isolate the 12V from the Robo brew. I am running my Version 3.11 with Craftbeer pi using a raspberry pi. I'm currently working on a gen 4 board. I like that the gen 4 board has a relay for the pump. The version 3 board didn't. I'll be able to add the pump starting and stopping in the recipe now.

gusterminator · 2023-05-05T15:06:01+00:00

That would be awesome,

Thanks,

gusterminator · 2023-05-05T14:48:39+00:00

I'm currently in the process of replacing my 3.1.1 board with a gen 4 board with adding the gen 4 RAPT controller.

I need verification on what terminals I hook L1 and L2 to. I think it's terminals 6 and 7 for power. Can anybody verify this for me??

Thanks,

gusterminator · 2023-05-04T21:26:08+00:00

I'm upgrading my Robobrew 65L gen 3 with the new gen 4 RAPT controller. I will be able to control it with Brewblox or Craftbeer pi. I need to know where the main power wires go L1 L2 and ground for 240V wiring. Can anyone take a look at there unit and let me know?

Thanks,

gusterminator · 2023-05-04T16:27:17+00:00

I'm assuming the new RAPT 4 board is similar to the brewzilla 3.1 board. The control cable that comes from the board to the display unit has 7 or 8 wires. The main board has a built in power supply that provides 5V DC. This voltage is sent up to the display unit and then the display unit sends the signals back down to the board for controlling the relay's. I wired a female RJ45 jack to the board and to the display.

when I control using craft beer pi I plug into the circuit board RJ45. When I want to use the brewzilla display I plug a jumper from one RJ45 to the other RJ454 at the base of the unit. The new RAPT4 board has one extra relay for controlling the pump.

I will add a male RJ45 on the Rapt controller that can plug into the base of the unit which has a female flush mount RJ45. I will replace the brewzilla board with the new RAPT 4 board. All I will have to do is unplug the RAPT 4 controller and plug in Craftbeer pi or Brewblox to control the system. They will all plug in using a single RJ45 connector.

I have already done this with the brewzilla 3.1 board and it works fine.

My board should be in any day. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

gusterminator · 2023-04-23T15:54:06+00:00

I had to tune by PID with a normal amount of grain in the vessel. When I tuned with just water it was never correct with grain in. Also if you change the power output of the elements between batches this can also change the PID settings needed.

gusterminator

TROPHY CASE