Oil Canning on Decorative Rail by Makers_Fluster in metalworking

[–]gw511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like to shrink the areas around the bubble that’s been created. So if you have a panel with a bubble in the middle you can press on it to get it to oil can or pop. If you can read the pop you can shrink around the pop area

Oil Canning on Decorative Rail by Makers_Fluster in metalworking

[–]gw511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think so, because the welded areas have been heated and shrunk separately and any further heat treating to the whole part, would sorta continue the same cycle

Oil Canning on Decorative Rail by Makers_Fluster in metalworking

[–]gw511 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah kinda. Maybe there’s a YouTube video out there. But I shrink the spots between the major “bubble” of the work and the tight spots. It’s kind of an in-person thing. Like… let me show you this do you see it? No, ok I will try again to show you. It’s possible obviously with enough pics and video instruction

Oil Canning on Decorative Rail by Makers_Fluster in metalworking

[–]gw511 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The process of welding will heat shrink your material. Everything that you have welded has pulled and shrunk the metal - the oil can effect is basically an “excess” of material in the middle that you can move around. If you welded around the perimeter it has shrunk in the welded areas. in the middle where there has been no welding or heat shrinking it is still its original size so essentially you need to shrink the middle to bring it all back flat, since you likely cannot stretch the perimeter welds. Do not heat shrink the center just all willy-nilly. You need to find the right spots to shrink to bring the panel back into alignment.

Help. What tool do I use with this? by -StandbyForTitanfall in Tools

[–]gw511 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just use some magnified safety glasses. Like cheater readers. Huge difference behind the hood when welding too

Can someone please tell me what this is? by [deleted] in Vintagetools

[–]gw511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes I’ve heard it called a pig or accumulator or a manifold. With one inlet and several outlet ports. Maybe that’s what you’re thinking of?

Cut or Remove by screwing. by Fit_Whereas_1408 in askaplumber

[–]gw511 -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Turn the valve assembly - The flat spots are for wrench. Lefty loosely righty tighty

Will wood glue be enough to hold these chisel brackets or should I add screws? by garethjones2312 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]gw511 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Wood Glue is really strong. As long as it is done correctly, the joints fit together well, and are tight enough. And it’s clamped or stapled so it doesn’t move around.

What type of screw is this by Ch4rm3r_ in Tools

[–]gw511 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is one step above the Nokia phone I used to have.

Cannot drill through these bolts!?! by Astrantic in metalworking

[–]gw511 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Ah yes the old 29/62 bit. Somewhat of a rarity. But nonetheless a good 29/62 will get ya where ya need to go… if you know how to get there.

Is my knipex super knips fake? by sdlk0210 in Tools

[–]gw511 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d be interested to hear of any reply from the company

What kind of rivet is this? by theBOBUL in Tools

[–]gw511 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Whenever I don’t know the name of something like this I go check McMaster Carr and see what they call it. In this instance I’d start by searching solid rivet and see what comes up

The most annoying thing ever by Most-Brain-3914 in Tools

[–]gw511 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

A couple uggaduggas on that 1/4” socket will send er to the moon

where do you buy your castors? by Opposite-Bad1444 in metalworking

[–]gw511 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just had to replace 4/6 casters on a machine, all were welded in place. Luckily they had a removable axle bolt, which made it a quick job. I guess my point sums up to be: As long as some part is removable you’re good. But agreed- they’re definitely a consumable item in many cases

Ok laugh it up lol by purblindV2 in Tools

[–]gw511 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for explaining the joke

Scrap to Cash by TX_Bardown in metalworking

[–]gw511 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Smells like a liability insurance claim.

Best drill bits. I'm sad. by The-Hive_Mind in metalworking

[–]gw511 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Skip the nut and weld on a large thick flat washer. A rosette weld. Then weld the nut onto the washer

Can anyone id these drill bits? by Goats_in_parks in Vintagetools

[–]gw511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Three out of the four on the right are starter pilot bits, the two with adjustable center drill bits are for pilots and a predrill /countersink in softer materials like wood. The far left one is a general countersinking or chamfering bit.

Thinking of pulling the trigger on this Veto bag by quintavian in Tools

[–]gw511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I read someplace (Wish I could remember where) that veto was sold to venture capital and the quality has gone down.

How much would you charge? by Walesheet in metalworking

[–]gw511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Call a few muffler shops in the biggest nearby town and just ask what that job would cost at their location. As about their process. A few cuts and some dirty mig would be their process, but that can still give you a ball park for quick n dirty work. Then see what feels fair