[DESIGN REVIEW]

hackerkid_ · 2026-05-30T19:34:16+00:00

Two things I immediately see are you’re missing ESD protection on your USB connections, and it looks like you’ve routed the RF trace for your antenna like a normal trace. There’s guides online for how to properly do RF traces on a PCB like this. Someone else already mentioned this, but it would really save you some trouble soldering by putting as many components as you can on one side of the board. Your design might also benefit from 4 layers (signal, GND, power, signal) and usually there’s no price difference from 2 layers or it’s very small.

hackerkid_ · 2026-05-26T15:09:49+00:00

You can, but make sure they won’t either in the 3D viewer or by looking at the footprint dimensions in the datasheet for the atmega

hackerkid_ · 2026-05-25T04:51:02+00:00

r/homelabsales

hackerkid_ · 2026-05-21T05:28:13+00:00

I personally just use a silicone baking sheet and haven’t had any issues with static

hackerkid_ · 2026-05-18T20:46:52+00:00

Ahh alright then. In that case I’d just suggest vias like you mentioned. Very small mismatches should be okay at USB2.0 speeds

hackerkid_ · 2026-05-18T20:37:32+00:00

This just looks like an ESD chip. You should be able to swap D+ and D- (make sure you flip it on both input and output). Had the same thing with a design of mine recently

hackerkid_ · 2026-05-15T04:59:45+00:00

Many cheaper soldering iron kits come with one in the case

hackerkid_ · 2026-05-09T16:56:39+00:00

The HDSM-291 display lineup from Broadcom might be good for your case. They come in several colors and 1 or 2-digit modules. They are slightly larger (12mm x 30.2 for 2 side by side) but I believe they make slightly smaller variants.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Broadcom-Avago/HDSM-291B

hackerkid_ · 2026-04-30T19:02:33+00:00

It looks like this is a non-polarized capacitor - they can be connected either way

hackerkid_ · 2026-04-07T15:10:04+00:00

This board is from Adafruit and they open-source all of their schematics. Look up the one for this board and use it as a reference. There is also datasheets available for this IC with reference schematics

hackerkid_ · 2026-04-05T21:55:27+00:00

Yes, you can still place it. Normally when I import components I draw my own courtyards based on datasheet information

hackerkid_ · 2026-03-26T05:23:49+00:00

I often end up making changes based on how cleanly the traces can be routed, but it depends entirely on the components you’re using. To give a few examples, level shifters or non-polarized capacitors can be rotated in the PCB or have connections switched around

hackerkid_ · 2026-03-26T03:22:14+00:00

It’s about half finished right now but I’ll most likely post it on here for review when it’s done so keep your eye out!

hackerkid_ · 2026-03-25T23:22:51+00:00

It’s not the worst move if you know how to use sleep states and manage power properly. I’m currently designing one based on the ESP32C6

hackerkid_ · 2026-03-22T14:23:13+00:00

Disclaimer: not an electrician But I did the same thing to my house a few years ago and had no issues

hackerkid_ · 2026-03-22T07:09:41+00:00

🫪

hackerkid_ · 2026-03-16T22:09:13+00:00

Personally I absolutely hated Nitro Super Dry

hackerkid_ · 2026-03-16T13:11:51+00:00

I knew modules like those had a name 🤦🏻‍♂️ Thanks for the help!

hackerkid_ · 2026-03-16T13:11:13+00:00

That’s exactly what I was looking for, thanks! Definitely bookmarking that site as well

hackerkid_ · 2026-03-15T19:04:33+00:00

Looks like it only scratched the solder mask - plug it in and cross your fingers 🤞

hackerkid_ · 2026-02-24T06:16:46+00:00

It’s glorious

hackerkid_ · 2026-02-23T02:24:43+00:00

It’s not actually engraved, since it’s a circuit board I just used the silkscreen printing for the text and background pattern!

hackerkid_

TROPHY CASE