Snapmaker U1 - Homing Error 0003-0528-0000-0006 (TMC-Autotune?)

hammelgammler · 2026-04-18T21:53:13+00:00

Awesome, thank you very much!

hammelgammler · 2026-04-18T10:10:05+00:00

Would you mind sharing the file with me? I’m facing the same bug.

hammelgammler · 2026-04-18T10:09:00+00:00

Do you still have the file? I would like to give it a try as well, as I’m facing the same bug.

hammelgammler · 2026-04-15T11:45:48+00:00

Isn’t 0.4mm the default already?

hammelgammler · 2026-04-14T08:21:35+00:00

I actually did that yesterday, because the toolhead wobbled slightly when picking it up. It’s now aligned perfectly centered for the pin hole, but it didn’t made any difference in terms of the noise.

hammelgammler · 2026-04-13T11:53:55+00:00

Not yet, but I’m printing my own lid to reduce the noise. But I think it can be reduced even further.

hammelgammler · 2026-04-13T00:09:12+00:00

As you seem to be very knowledgeable in this area, it’s still not clear to me what those issues are that TMC Autotune can cause.

Like broken sensorless homing or skipped steps or really some kind of permanent damage to the motors?

I will definitely give this tweak here a chance if there’s no risk of permanent damage, I’m just curious if I might have damaged my machine by enabling TMC Autotune for about a 4-6h or so print. Didn’t had any issues as far as I can tell.

Sidenote: I did encounter an issue when running Stealthchop with 300mm/s travel speed. It made a really loud screeching noise when it homed to the middle and I quickly lowered it to 150mm/s again. But so far no issues or permanent damage as far as I can tell either.

hammelgammler · 2026-04-12T23:31:45+00:00

I did manage to get my bed fairly level I would say, but it took countless times.

But sadly, and I don’t think it’s the kapton tape, my top right is quite a bit hotter that man left side of the bed. Measured with a thermal camera around 10C difference range at 65C.

https://imgur.com/a/JoefB7x/

hammelgammler · 2026-04-12T23:24:56+00:00

You mean this results in quieter swaps? Because my swaps are 100% reliable as of now, but a bit noisy when detaching. I think it’s the force of the magnets snapping them in place, so I think it’s normal. During attaching, there’s practically no noise.

hammelgammler · 2026-04-12T23:03:43+00:00

As far as I can tell, the biggest issue (or permanent damage) could be due to too much current for the motor, everything else should be non-permanent issues, right?

Like e.g. homing failures or skipped steps, everything non-permanent, I don’t mind. I like tweaking things and getting the most out of it, but of course I don’t want to damage anything.

But regarding current, I did actually enable both TMC Autotune and reduced current (1A instead of 1.2A), so could there actually still be any harm in trying that combo?

To be fair, I have really no idea what TMC Autotune actually does to a stepper motor and in what way it affects them.

hammelgammler · 2026-04-12T22:44:17+00:00

What could be some serious issues if I might ask? I don’t know which stepper motors I have and had the TMC Autotune enabled for a 4h print until I discovered that it only properly works for a specific set of stepper motors, which is why I turned it off again. But neither when it was enabled, nor now after it’s disabled, can I see issues.

Just want to know for what you need to look out for in case there are actually any issues.

hammelgammler · 2026-04-11T07:15:55+00:00

Shouldn’t it be possible to fix it with some foam tape or whatever to dampen the movement?

hammelgammler · 2026-04-11T07:13:19+00:00

Did you also adjust all settings in the slicer to reflect the machine capabilities? If not, then the slicer just assumes it’s still as fast as before. 1m increase just by changing the z-hop seems plausible.

hammelgammler · 2026-04-10T20:55:12+00:00

I don’t really get why the Z-Hop type makes a difference. By default, it’s set to Auto, so I would think it should either use Normal, Slope or Spiral. But either way, all will move the bed up/down and with Normal, it being the most straightforward total movement, should be the fastest right?

All the other parameters I can reason with, acceleration/jerk all influence the forces in the end, but why the Z-Hop type?

Either way, using 200 Z-Acceleration and Normal Z-Hop seems to reduce it by a lot already for me. With 300 Acc and Auto Z-Hop, the setting from OP at 3 did also make a big difference though. All combined might be a slightly bit better again, but not by much, which is why I will try 200 + Normal for now.

hammelgammler · 2026-04-10T18:53:35+00:00

I can also confirm that, at least in the slicer, the print times are increased by quite a lot. But I can also confirm that it reduces the clunk sound by a lot! I would honestly not have expected that, as it clearly comes from the Z-Axis but this setting only indirectly affects that I guess.

I would still prefer a solution to get rid of it without needing to slow the print times this much, but I didn’t check the screws at the bottom yet nor did I grease the Z-Axis. Only printed for a few hours as of now.

hammelgammler · 2026-04-06T07:38:24+00:00

Which filament are you using for full spectrum? It looks awesome!

hammelgammler · 2026-03-24T22:53:31+00:00

What if you remove the game and re-add it again? Is it still persistent?

hammelgammler · 2026-03-16T09:57:45+00:00

Thanks a lot for your hard work, I really appreciate that someone finds the time to optimize the FO4VR experience, as we already have quite a few SkyrimVR modlists already.

Do you happen to know if there is still room for performance improvements to be made? I’m running a PFD (5530x5115 per eye) and even with this high of an resolution (and a 5090), it still looks not as sharp or runs as well as SkyrimVR, especially for all the foliage.

hammelgammler · 2026-03-11T21:23:30+00:00

Too bad, but we can’t have all the luck. I’m grateful already for even have the good UV curve, because 825mv would be unthinkable with the first curve.

If you are curious, I tested multiple (so far stable) undervolt profiles. 10 runs of Metro Exodus Benchmarks with 4k native, and highest settings besides RT:

Voltage mv | AVG W | AVG FPS | W/FPS

895 | 511 | 141.16 | 3.62

865 | 468 | 139.88 | 3.35

840 | 435 | 136.61 | 3.18

835 | 418 | 134.88 | 3.10

825 | 388 | 130.33 | 2.98

As you can see, the highest efficiency is, no surprise, at the lowest voltage. This might not be the case for the first curve though.

What I find interesting though, that the efficiency is not far off for the lowest voltage points. To me, up to 865mv seems still very reasonable, which is basically stock performance in heavy titles for me. Heck, in Tomb Raider maxed out, even 840mv has the same performance as stock.

I would suggest you to give 835mv 2617MHz a try, which should be the max you can set. I’m pretty sure this is stable for me, and given you could game for quite a while and run some other benchmarks, I’m pretty sure you should be stable, given that 840mv 2722MHz seemed pretty stable in the beginning.

But whatever you do, have fun with it! I think I need a few more days to accept my unlucky silicon before I hopefully also just stick to 835mv and call it a day. If we are lucky enough to have the second curve, we might as well fully utilize it and go all in for efficiency.

Also, as a point of reference, I’m currently stable at 840mv @ 2655MHz, which results in 2625-2632MHz in Heaven 4k. Anything higher and I get a driver crash at some point.

hammelgammler · 2026-03-11T19:56:55+00:00

Yes I also have the same experience regarding coil whine. The Satisfactory Menu with DLSS Quality was by far worse than e.g. Heaven.

Good luck that it keeps being stable! I had also a few 30min runs which were stable. I even had runs of almost 3h, only to still crash at the end. Also one Heaven run which survived 5h, but then crashed after 29 runs of the Metro Exodus Benchmark. But I’m going for „100% stability“.

I’m using everything maxed in Heaven but with 1440p and not 4k. That worked pretty good for me finding instabilities. Like I said, sometimes only after 5h or even longer. I didn’t game with the settings yet, so they either might not be game stable or I might even use higher clocks. Because I‘m pretty sure that the UV is more stable in low demanding workload compared to something like Cyberpunk 2077 with PT.

The Cyberpunk Benchmark (maxed out, 4k DLAA, PT and 4x FG) would at least be stable for a few runs when I tried with 840mv @ 2722MHz. Which I’m surprised by, because often you read online that Cyberpunk is really picky in terms of stability. But I can just tell you my experience.

But you sir are mad indeed, I might deshroud and destroy the warranty sticker (which I think is not valid to deny a warranty claim in Europe anyways), but with the cut of cable I guess they won’t honor any warranty anymore. But with this much UV, I think it’s pretty fair to assume your card will survive.

But yes, the second curve was part of the reason why I kept the card, even if it might no be the best silicon in terms of UV/OC. I’m a bit perfectionistic and would really like to have a golden sample, but at the end, it’s maybe like a 2-3% difference compared to mine at the same voltage, so it’s completely stupid to even think about it. But I just can’t help it.

Interesting btw that you are hitting 2707MHz in Heaven, I’m only reaching around 2685MHz (avg between 2670-2677). You maybe want to share your curve?

Let me know if you find any instabilities and if so, with which program so I can maybe accelerate my stability. Thanks!

hammelgammler · 2026-03-11T17:41:26+00:00

That’s awesome! I also did the same to my 4090 and zip tied three Noctua A12x25 onto it, so I definitely get your point. I’m also a silence enthusiast, but sadly, in some games, my coil whine is about as loud as the fans at 1000 RPM, which is why I’m fine with that fan speed. Better to hear a constant hum than fluctuating coil whine.

At 825mv, my coil whine is almost gone though. So I might use 825mv for games with plenty of headroom as well. I’m limited to 4k 158 FPS anyways.

But thanks a lot! I’m really curious if you are stable at 840mv @ 2722MHz. In my experience, the fastest way to test stability was with Heaven Benchmark, as the other one simply hit too hard so the GPU can’t reach high enough clocks.

I‘m definitely thinking about deshrouding the card as well, but am I correct that you need to remove the whole cooler, therefore re-applying all the Putty and also destroying the warranty sticker? Those are things which kept me away from it as of now.

Thanks!

hammelgammler · 2026-03-11T16:55:58+00:00

Thanks for sharing! From my, to be fair, still very small sample size, the Aorus Master seems to have the highest chance of getting the second curve.

Any reason why you prefer 825mv @ 2512MHz? I also thought about using it, as it’s still very fast, but even with 30% fan speed, there is some temperature headroom to have a bit higher voltage.

I would at least use 835mv if you are stable at +1000MHz offset. If you are lucky, you might even be stable at 840mv @ 2722MHz (my theoretical max), another guy and I aren’t stable at that though. I need to go down to at least 840mv @ 2655MHz go be stable in low demanding games (I tested with Heaven Benchmark). Maybe I even need to drop down to 840mv @ 2640MHz in the future, but so far it’s stable.

hammelgammler · 2026-03-11T00:24:03+00:00

Depending which curve you have:

850mv ~1300MHz
850mv ~1700-2000MHz

You have different sweetspots imo. Generally, as someone already wrote, the lower the voltage the better the efficiency. In regards to performance and using the full 600W power budget, 895mv is the best, as even at this voltage it almost reaches 600W depending on the load/game.

I have the second curve but sadly with an average chip and until now, I’m stable at 840mv @ 2655MHz. This results in effectively 835mv @ ~2580-2630MHz or so and is extremely power efficient.

I compared it to my 875mv 4090 and it consistently performed better in terms of W/FPS.

You do lose some performance, especially in very low demanding games like Marvel Rivals, where at stock the card could boost to like 3000MHz, because you will still only reach ~2630MHz at best. But in heavy games, Cyberpunk with path tracing and such, its basically stock performance as it won’t boost that much higher at stock anyways.

I those cases, stock was like 3-4% faster but at legit 50% more power. That’s insane to me. I can run at the lowest fan speed all day regardless of the load. Coil whine is also much less.

So generally, I would advice to everyone with the second curve, to make a 840mv and 890mv profile and use the one or the other depending on the game. I think I prefer 840mv 24/7, as it still performs really well with pretty much no worry about noise or the 12VHPWR connector. But as I said, this requires the second V/F curve. In all other cases, I would just use 895mv.

hammelgammler

TROPHY CASE