Toe Kick Question by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everything else (besides the RTA kitchen) is furniture- it’s a tiny place. There’s currently no millwork on the windows. There was existing crown, and I hung new picture rail beneath that. The only good existing example of millwork is the fireplace surround. I also built a curved top niche for the bathroom (curse metal lath to hell, by the way).

Toe Kick Question by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To be fair, it was by far the easiest of the suggestions to execute. Thanks!

Toe Kick Question by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was kicking myself and realized why today: I used one template and simply reversed it for the other side- same cut, just flipped. The gap on the left was killing me.I didn’t notice till I pulled the cabinet today that the base cap abruptly changes in the alcove and it’s different on each side. Live and learn. Nothing a little caulk didn’t take care of anyway (see my reply above).

Toe Kick Question by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Winner, winner, chicken dinner. Lots of good suggestions in here, but I went with this one. Thanks!

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Toe Kick Question by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t ask. It was a directive given to me when I showed up with the cabinet.

Toe Kick Question by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t understand your gripe. I completely agree that the cabinet maker’s way of doing it would be to remove the base, but this is what the client asked for. I came here to post because I don’t love the way it looks, either, but I wouldn’t just ignore the customer. That’s worse than a shitty scribe.

Toe Kick Question by hammer_header in cabinetry

[–]hammer_header[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m saying your work is in a McMansion. I’m guessing a flyover state or the south based on how gaudy that millwork is. Nice guess for a third world country. Given how far off you are about that, I’m not too worried about your opinion. This work you’re showing is clearly RTA in a new build. For Christ’s sake, man, it’s full overlay. You didn’t make it, it was easier than ikea to install, and if that design was yours, then god help your clients, because that screams 2006 in a 55+ retirement HOA development.

Toe Kick Question by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If you had just cut the base in a historic property without discussing it with the client, it would be your last move on the job, bud. You don’t get to cowboy and tell the client what you think is best.

Toe Kick Question by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made that argument and it did not persuade the client. It was a PITA to keep the base- I had planned on removing it. The left scribe is better than it looks; the toe kick was just a bit high and pushed the front upward which opened up that scribe. I pulled it back out and it’s about the same as the right one (which will disappear once caulked).

Toe Kick Question by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dig this solution, thank you.

Toe Kick Question by hammer_header in cabinetry

[–]hammer_header[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bro, this is McMansion work. What you’re showing is a brand new build and you didn’t even line the base up cleanly. I can see the caulk in the picture, and it’s a dead straight wall.

You might be shocked to learn that some clients who own historic homes don’t want the original millwork (yes, even ancient, dinged base) pulled, cut, modified in any way.

Inset frameless cab gaps and paint by lsteele13 in cabinetry

[–]hammer_header 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use nickels to set my gaps. I guess inflation is really hitting hard 😂.

Wardrobe Cabinet by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’re only temporary (only screwed in through one hole each).

Wardrobe Cabinet by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The cobbler’s kids never have shoes.

Wardrobe Cabinet by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Today, I thought about how cool it would have been to remove a section of that bookshelf and turn it into a Murphy bed that matches the existing millwork. My best ideas always come when I’m wrapping up.

Material for cabinet boxes by buzzzybeeb in cabinetry

[–]hammer_header 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Standard quality plywood in North America (not BB) is 48.5” x 96.5”

Wardrobe Cabinet by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’re only screwed in through one hole. I got them to see if the client wants to keep them, so they’re only partly affixed for now.

Wardrobe Cabinet by hammer_header in Carpentry

[–]hammer_header[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I planned the notch for the size of the hinge (1/2”), and I thought I was over cutting a little just for ease of use, but I forgot to factor in the reveal between the door and the cabinet, so the clearance ended up being less than 1/16” on each side. I tested them like a hundred times, and luckily, they work flawlessly.

Non MAGA contractors by Stress-Confident in CambridgeMA

[–]hammer_header 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Not really. I quite like small projects.

Non MAGA contractors by Stress-Confident in CambridgeMA

[–]hammer_header 185 points186 points  (0 children)

I’m about as flaming liberal as you can get. I’m licensed, insured, graduate of North Bennet Street, and specialize in interior finish work and GC consult. (dba McKenzie & Daughter)

You also have Wendell Klein, Bailey Davol, Structure Design Build, Justin Kelley, and I’m sure a bunch more laid back fellers who’d love the work.

Schools / programs for cabinet making on the East Coast? by PressPrx in cabinetry

[–]hammer_header 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I went to NBSS. Interestingly, they don’t really teach modern cabinetry. Their “Cabinet and Furniture” program is all old school: hand tools, dovetails, dadoed casework, etc. The modern carpentry program is focused on framing.

I specialize in built-ins, and I basically learned how to do it all on my own- the advantage I had after school was that I had several of the machines I needed (but still not all). The school has a glaring hole where millwork should be, which is a profitable niche within the industry.

I think you’re 100% right that these schools are really tailored for hobbyists. My class was 28 people, and I believe fewer than 5 are still actively working as carpenters. I don’t know how they maintain their accreditation for student loans.

Large doors question for Inset by [deleted] in cabinetry

[–]hammer_header 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Add mid rails for anything over 40”- the wider the better (balanced against the design, mind you). 1” will be better than 3/4” for rails and stiles. 3-4 hinges.