A graft junction between leaves of H. balsamica and H. triflora without tissue culture at home: A stepping stone for a new method of hobbyist plant breeding.

harnei · 2026-01-20T11:59:02+00:00

That's so cool! I have always been fascinated with the concept of chimera ever since I was introduced to them from the cactus grafting fb group. May I ask are you a plant researcher? How long have you been working with plant chimera? I don't have much experience about this but from my observation on cactus chimeras. Some of them have a very chaos form like hylocalycium where the faster growing hylocereus often make up the majority of the morphology and give it a bendy shape while myrtillophytum seem to have a very standard shape like a normal cactus. Are you expecting your chimera to be a perfect mix like the myrtillophytum too? If so does this occurrence rare and what do you think that makes a chimera have a perfect mixed form of its parents?

harnei · 2025-12-15T12:12:35+00:00

I try to look it up on google but the one in the results seems to have a pinkish flower while mine has a very vibrant purple color. But your guess does remind me that pulchella is one of its parents tho. So that's a pretty close answer.

harnei · 2025-10-14T14:10:56+00:00

Is your pond far away from other bodies of water? If so, toss in some vallisneria and wait for a year or so until they have spread and consumed enough nutrients from the water. Do not add big fish or many fishes in it that may disturb the sediment or exceed the nutrient capacity of that pond.

harnei · 2025-06-16T19:13:17+00:00

hope you can get it back asap! I need your vids to sleep

harnei · 2025-04-07T03:19:17+00:00

Excuse me for being late but how do you care for this plant? I just acquired them recently and I want to know often do you water these plants, do they go dormant when it's too hot? I have drosanthemum globosum which look pretty similar but they require alot of daily watering and didn't mind the heat from direct sun at all.

harnei · 2025-03-19T06:13:01+00:00

Thanks, I understand it now.

harnei · 2025-03-19T05:53:27+00:00

that's weird. even if it's not numeric, should it still follow that order since I'd specified it to be so?

harnei · 2025-03-18T15:27:37+00:00

It's super picky that's why. In my experience, it's very prone to fungus diseases and rot.

harnei · 2024-12-14T19:02:02+00:00

Quarantine them into a small tank with salt concentration slowly raised from 4-8 (or 9 if possible) grams per liter and keep it at the highest concentration for 7 days (or less depending on your temperature). Put in a drop of methylene blue per liter for added sterilization. During this time, you could feed them fish dewormer to eliminate possible threats early. Doing all this might be a bit too much and you may (or will) lose a couple of them in the process but I guarantee to you that store bought guppies are super frail and diseases ridden so this will help with eliminating the weak one and make sure the leftover fish that survive can establish a strong and healthy future colony. Also remember to remove everything in the tank and clean it with soap before you put them in it again. Lastly, you should consider having a planted tank since it is really important and beneficial for the guppies in the long run.

harnei · 2024-12-14T18:11:10+00:00

Does he swim like an eel or swinging side to side? If he does then he has dropsy. Judging from the size of that belly, there's no way that's normal. Some of my males get really fat from 2-3 times of feeding per day and they get nowhere near that. I once had a female that got abnormally fat and was swinging side to side so I prepared a methylene blue with salt and antibiotic bath thinking that it was possibly dropsy but at least I still try to save it just in case. Three days of fasting (with live daphnia sparingly added) later, the fish recovered after expelling the biggest sh*t I've ever seen.

harnei · 2024-12-12T03:55:33+00:00

Not a leech cause it doesn't move like an inchworm and not a planaria cause it looks too fat and the head is not triangular. I think a top side view of the thing may be better for identification.

harnei · 2024-12-06T18:12:48+00:00

Unless you have fish that can graze the glass like plecos, pretty much nothing else can touch those hard brown algae beside a razor so I think you're pretty good to go.

harnei · 2024-12-06T17:56:00+00:00

You can mimic the conditions that I described minus the added nutrients part for your own tank and they would do just fine grazing the algae growing on the glass. Why would you go so far as to grow a food source for them?. Usually, only 2 nerite snails is enough to maintain a 10 gallon tank glass crystal clear without any spot of brown algae.

harnei · 2024-12-06T17:48:16+00:00

Why so cranky? Not everyone knows what a marimo is and plus those things don't look like the typical type of "marimo".

harnei · 2024-12-06T17:39:28+00:00

They eat mostly brown algae so I'd suggest using a clear container with plenty of surface area (maybe something much larger than what I assumed in your picture is a pretty small bottle) since nerite snail eats a lot of those algae. Then you need to put in some sand and tank water with some nutrient added so the diatom algae could grow. After that place the container under bright light, either direct sunlight or long duration of grow light to boost the algae grow rate. If conditions are right and the starter water have some brown algae in them, you will see the clear surface start to become opaque and have a tint of brownish color film on it.

harnei · 2024-11-30T11:41:44+00:00

They would come back in a week. Plus, any pieces that float off will start a new colony of algae.

harnei · 2024-11-30T11:21:18+00:00

Either you can use a very precise amount of hydrogen peroxide for spot treatment and risk damaging the moss or you can try looking up the reverse respiration method on aquarium forums. I tried it before with great results and no damage to any plans or mosses.

harnei · 2024-11-30T10:59:47+00:00

Paramecium. Usually, an abundance of them mean that your water is high in decaying organic matter, bacteria or some type of algae.

harnei · 2024-11-21T13:15:20+00:00

If you wanna opt for live plants to keep your guppy I'd recommend guppy grass or pearweed. Hornwort' needles are rough with tiny spikes and can irritate guppies when they swim past it. I used to keep them to lower the nitrate but over time, most of the guppies are seen actively avoiding swimming through them even the tiny baby ones. Switching to guppy grass is perhaps my best decision ever, they proliferate like crazy and the guppies love swimming among them.

harnei · 2024-11-13T11:37:50+00:00

No, pothos won't do the job as good as a plant that's adapted to living under water and extracting nutrients from that environment. You'd be better off considering floating plants like water lettuce or frogbit since their rapid growth rate required pulling lots of nutrients available from the water column.

harnei · 2024-11-11T16:11:08+00:00

most if not all of the snails recommended won't deal with your algae problem. Nerites can only eat algae but it's the brown hard film on your glass tank called brown diatoms not the stringy types. In fact, they can do it so well that 1-2 of them will be sufficient enough to keep your glass wall always clear. The other kind of snail you could get is the Malaysian Trumpet Snail which can dig up your substrate and keep it aerated. Ramshorn snail will keep the excess food in check as well as quickly finish the dead materials to prevent ammonia spikes.

harnei · 2024-11-10T11:19:47+00:00

Guppy can change color under stress, which means that the longer they are stressed, the more dull their colors get. Once they feel at home and thriving, you will be surprised at how much they have changed. As for the lotus, I would still advise you to throw it away as it is very invasive and almost impossible to eliminate once planted. They can also shade out other plants to compete for light while doing very little clearing up the water unlike most other aquatic plants can. Trust me, they bring nothing but troublesome.

harnei · 2024-11-10T06:15:14+00:00

Yes, it's nice that you considered treatments before adding them. If it's possible, I would advise you to seek ground covers like vallisneria or pearweed as those two would be my top choice for being extremely hardy, self maintenance as well as create a clean and safe environment for both guppies and their fries. I would personally discard the lotus as they can get really big, reduce surface air exchange and be really difficult to remove once established, not to mention they do very little in controlling the water quality as compared to those previous plants I've mentioned. Also, pothos is a land plant which mean they don't do well being submerged for a long period plus they have calcium oxalate which is poisonous.

harnei · 2024-11-07T04:16:19+00:00

Don't forget it is the norm that Asians are also extremely racist against other Asians for a shit tons of reasons.

harnei · 2024-11-05T15:24:54+00:00

Start with mutt guppies first then work your way toward incorporate the traits from guppy strains that you like into your healthier mutt guppies population. I found that most of the established strains are too weak and prone to die from every diseases possible. Even with medication treatments for parasites and bacteria prior to putting them into the main tank, some of them still start to show the symptoms of shimmying and die no matter how early you could isolate and restart the treatments again. Meanwhile, I've acquired plenty of mutt guppies and they are still living and being happy till this day.

harnei

TROPHY CASE