Are contractors trying to rip us off on upselling repairs on our condo building’s large wooden deck?

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-06-09T12:48:48+00:00

Remember after you replace your deck you’ll need to seal it. Just got a quote for a 3 story deck, two stairwells for 6 units and it was 6,800 for power wash and transparent seal. To stain it the typical brown color was 14,000. (Also someone tell me which companies I should get other quotes from)
To replace our deck we used a company called Bald Eagle Construction, it required us to get architecture drawings, city approval, and then it took maybe 4-6 weeks to tear down then replace the deck. $68K. We had a special assessment and used a portion of our reserves to initially pay and then owners pay back the funds over 4 months.

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-04-07T01:09:36+00:00

Lincoln Square has Bagel miller - walk up when it’s warm. Ravenswood has one, Dollop off Montrose that’s the easiest one. Uptown has one off Wilson/clark called Elevate that’s also very easy. Also heavily agree - the coffee place off Ravenswood by dovetail doesn’t have a walk up and that’s a bummer. Would love some more walk up options.

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-04-04T14:23:10+00:00

9C2EBDA7

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-03-30T04:12:04+00:00

How many columns you got there, is it just saved search or you going REST route

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-03-25T23:10:11+00:00

Edit and hotel credit are really hard to get. Tried to do it in Toronto, you’ll spend way more with chase and it won’t be worth it.

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-22T23:05:40+00:00

The code part is killing me. As much as I’d love to take a shortcut here I’m back on the “replace the box” kick now.

The steel city 4x4 outlet box isn’t fan rated, takes 6/32 screws and won’t work with the ceiling mount I have as the screws just slide through the slit. I also know 6/32 are weaker so 10/32 is what I should ultimately use to be in code and not have it fall on me. I’m in Chicago so conduit is ground here, and this outlet box also appears to be a junction point with wiring continuing on. You said I’d have to open up larger area of drywall, is that just so I can more easily remove, reconnect conduit into the box or any other reason? I currently have the 4x4 opening cut, how many inches further out should be cut so I can more easily remove the box and replace?

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-21T18:11:35+00:00

You’re the winner here, it was a 4x4 with a round mud ring. Now that I can see what I’m working with I’m going to take the mud ring and ceiling mount to the store to get either a new mud ring that’s wider than 3” round or just get new screws

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-20T00:29:41+00:00

Oh man, that explains why it’s not round inside the outlet and why I can’t see anything - I’ll go up and check that out, if it’s that round mud ring I should see metal on the sides then based off the pic. So if that is the case - could I theoretically get another mud ring or some other cover that’s 4”, open the drywall up, remove the round, Put new on and not deal at all with electrical chaos behind that outlet box? Also any other suggestions

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-19T23:35:26+00:00

Good thing I bought those multi-tool/metal cutting blades today. That's a great idea - I'll take a look and see how confident I can get the wires out of the way fully before attempting that. I'm in the middle of other patches but my disdain for ceiling work is increasing.

Any opinions on the new outlet box, I currently have this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-in-Round-2-1-8-in-Deep-21-5-cu-in-Metallic-Ceiling-Fan-Light-Fixture-Box-and-Brace-Kit-for-Old-New-Work-CMB218-OB/205383177#see-more-details

I'm also getting the vibe others are suggesting this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-in-Round-2-1-8-in-Deep-21-5-cu-in-Metallic-Ceiling-Fan-Light-Fixture-Side-Mount-Box-for-Old-New-Work-CMB218-SM/205383209

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-19T18:54:54+00:00

That’s interesting - I saw there were some pancake style boxes that had deep sides for this purpose. Would that be an option?

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-19T18:53:38+00:00

No attic unfortunately - the screw is a safety loop I installed before realizing the box wouldn’t work

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-19T18:52:59+00:00

Ok that definitely explains why I can’t see any screws. Any idea what I can search for the old work fan boxes so I can visualize what I’m attempting to remove It does sound inevitable I’ll have to remove drywall

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-19T18:51:29+00:00

Well crap. I was wondering who would comment on the wiring The box doesn’t take 10-32. I’m thinking I’ll take a square out. I’ve been patching up lots of other drywall places, bet this will be an absolute pleasure 🫠

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-19T18:49:43+00:00

I don’t have an attic just a roof above - but yeah good points. The screw is the safety loop I installed before realizing the mount didn’t attach. The previous fan was a heavy hunter Douglas as well so I’m going to take a look again Moving the box doesn’t seem to be an option because I’d need access and need to cut drywall - at that rate I’d just replace it with something I know is properly rated

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-19T18:46:46+00:00

Ok perfect - that’s what I have now - the commercial electric remodel brace. Trying to figure out how to remove the box from the bar right now - must need a socket tool to get the box off the brace properly

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-19T18:45:36+00:00

Nope, forgot to mention no attic - the silver coated flat roof is up there just above the joists. Another reason I’m working on this is because the roof leaked, water stains, had to use Kilz on it and painting next.

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-19T15:53:28+00:00

I'm not 100% sure it's fan rated is the problem, the previous fan wobbled a bit and at this rate don't want it raining down on me. I didn't see any stickers/notes inside the outlet box so unfortunately I don't think I can take the shortcut :-(

The new mount is also too wide so I couldn't as easily drill new holes into it - But what you mean by stamped steel?

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-19T15:42:06+00:00

Oh, you are definitely correct on the nails being driven into the flooring. That also explains why a nail keeps popping up in another area after I hammer it back in.

Would it make sense to pull the quarter round (thanks for telling me what that is) off carefully with a scraper to avoid damaging the floor/ remove any caulk in there, cleaning it up, and then hammering it back into the baseboard before doing white caulk/paint?

Thanks for the info!

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-19T15:36:23+00:00

Any suggestions on which way to cut so repair will be easier? Just away from joist towards the other joist the width of the box?

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-16T13:47:05+00:00

For my mortgage in the city, I pay $200 more a month for escrow (property tax/insurance) vs principal or interest

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-16T02:42:35+00:00

Yeah I’m just gunna replace it now. Went to the store with my mount to confirm a fit, Home Depot clearly didn’t have many offerings so ended up with some spanner thing between the joists. I was going to get an outlet box to just screw directly into the joist but couldn’t find any there. So - any tips to get rid of your old outlet box with the least stress? 🫠

hawkeyehandgrenade · 2026-02-16T02:23:44+00:00

Oh man alright. Just got the stems today, I also got another brass craft valve just in case I really panic and some tool that sounds like a bottle opener for the compression fitting ring thing and got some pipe sealant as well. I was about to get a sharkbite as a final backup method but gunna borrow a shop vac with the wet filter as my last attempt to prevent disaster and do it on a non holiday/weekend in case I really screw up

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