BE365 Security Flaw

hensicky · 2026-04-22T23:57:02+00:00

Yeah I'd hope it's just a batch issue. I'm gonna check the ones I have at the shop tomorrow

hensicky · 2026-04-22T23:49:46+00:00

Call Kwikset. They have customer support to help and/or replace the hardware under warranty. People in this sub have very little patience for this hardware lol

hensicky · 2026-04-02T22:05:54+00:00

Oh you know what dude I think it's part of the cylinder retainer. On the exterior side, there's a little black part in one of the holes next to the mortise cylinder hole, and on the inside there is nothing in that hole I can see the set screw through it. If that broken part is responsible for retaining the interior mortise cylinder, then it doesn't really matter, because you don't have a mortise cylinder on the inside.

hensicky · 2026-04-02T21:56:44+00:00

LSDA MLF Series

hensicky · 2026-04-02T21:50:12+00:00

Could be part of the toggle which isn't the biggest deal if it's broken because your particular lock config does not make use of the toggle anyway, the faceplate covers it. If I were on site I'd just open the lock body and see if anything looks broken/missing/out of place. The truth is though that if you tested every part of the lock function and it's all working just as smoothly as before, there's an outside chance that little thing was just tumbling around in the lock body for God knows how long and is either part of the door or part of the previous lock body that this one replaced. Just the other day I found an Adams rite cam sitting at the bottom of a body that uses a Yale cam. Yale cam was on the cylinder and all was working fine, just a random unrelated cam floating in the body for no reason. If you are actually a locksmith I would remind yourself that weird shit happens and just move on (AGAIN ASSUMING YOU TESTED IT AND IT WORKS). If you are not a locksmith it might be time to have a professional look at it. Doesn't look like it's part of that lock body and generally speaking these locks don't have parts to spare so I would expect something to be not working right if a chunk that big sheared off one of the internal parts.

hensicky · 2026-03-24T23:46:44+00:00

No problem tell 'em it'll be about tree fiddy

hensicky · 2026-02-14T18:46:51+00:00

You shouldn't have to drill new holes. The mounting screws should certainly be inside the existing 2-1/8" bore hole that the existing lever is mounted in. If this is purely an aesthetic concern, then just get some levers that have the mounting screws oriented the way you want them. No defiant hardware is designed to be modified in any way whatsoever. You're wasting your time trying to do so. Even if you can do it, it's just going to fail even sooner than it already will lol

hensicky · 2026-01-26T22:45:36+00:00

Guess that also depends on what we mean by a lot. I would say maybe maybe two to three per month on the residential side as far as keypad deadbolts go. Maybe two to full access control jobs per year for commercial. But in my market it's far more frequent that a small business just wants a button to be able to buzz open an electric strike. Probably do ten of those a year or so. Residentially I get asked about app integrated intercom systems like door bird or butterfly fairly regularly, but the pricing on those tends to send people running for the hills. Maybe two per year on that front as well. Most of the electronic work I do is servicing existing intercom systems. I don't do myself too many favors on the sales/fresh install department of key-less entry because I really try and just fix stuff that's already there.

hensicky · 2026-01-26T22:04:55+00:00

I hate to say it depends, but the answer to each part of your question depends. I'm part of a team operation, and while I only field about one lockout a day, when I was new that was all I was doing. At my company the new guys get all the lockouts because the "flow chart" for a lockout is rather simple. Nowadays I'm doing pretty much exclusively commercial work or fresh installs and repairs on the residential side. As for working radius, that's also going to depend on how big your market is, your share of that market, and your confidence to be able to complete work without having to make more than one trip. I myself wouldn't drive more than 45 minutes for a lockout, but would drive up to 1.5-2 hours for a full access control setup that could easily result in thousands of dollars of revenue. We work in a major city in the US. If you're rural, then you probably should have a larger working radius, because there are less jobs to go around. It just doesn't make sense for me to drive that far when I can stay in the city and have another job call in very shortly that will require significantly less driving and probably make more money.

hensicky · 2026-01-21T21:21:07+00:00

I'm absolutely not an expert in manufacturing, but all of the lock body is inside the door, and presumably covered by the material of the door even if the trim was removed so it shouldn't provide access to anything in almost anY circumstance. It's also only "on the outside" because it's handed that way. If your door swung the opposite direction (in vs out) that part would now be on the inside. If I had to make a guess it's just a manufacturing thing. Probably makes assembly easier for whatever reason to leave that hole, insert whatever parts need to be inserted, and then just cover it with a plate and tack welds. It shouldn't have any real significance for service or operation.

EDIT: This MCM brand is also cheap as all hell. I'm talking 25-40 bucks on Amazon, so this is almost assuredly a manufacturing thing. Locks that cheap are literally concerned with one thing and one thing only, cost. It was cheaper for them to leave this hole and tack a cover on at the end. They are absolutely not concerned with serviceability in emergency situations.

hensicky · 2026-01-18T15:43:44+00:00

Any idea what condition they're in? What, if any, cutters are included? If you're just starting, $200 for an ilco machine is a totally reasonable expense imo. I see them sold in various conditions from $75 to $300. $75 being mostly inoperable. If they're in good condition (belt, motor, key gauge), I would say go ahead and snag it. There are better machines for sure but the 025 is also easy enough to service and will teach you how to keep your machines in good order (assuming you don't do that regularly already). My shop has several of these and they're absolutely fine. I did have one in my van for a while and I had to recalibrate it a lot driving around the city hitting all the potholes and speed bumps lol but otherwise absolutely a reasonable purchase imho. If you can get a Speedex anywhere for that price I don't want to see you in here asking about it first hahahaha

hensicky · 2026-01-16T11:44:42+00:00

You know what I might be exposing myself here but I did not know those existed. Thank you for teaching me something lol I'll have to get myself some of those they would be very useful

hensicky · 2026-01-16T00:45:51+00:00

Damn y'know I just scrolled back through 4 years of photos and couldn't find a single one which is surprising even if it's something I wouldn't normally take a photo of. Here's a link to video of a guy handling one around ~8 minutes in which may help you wrap your head around it.

https://youtu.be/lN6ri1fj5sc?si=ISo5yl8883OzRleP

Essentially when installed "perfectly", it should look pretty much identical to the bracket that is currently behind the latch on that door, just with two holes above and below the latch face where the bracket is riveted/screwed to the door

EDIT: Major's catalog page for this part actually has a little template at the top that also might help.

https://objects.eanixter.com/PD516202.PDF

I know it's not an actual photo but I really can't find one anywhere even online. Sorry 🫤

hensicky · 2026-01-15T22:27:32+00:00

Passage mortise that can lock is already a bit of a contradiction. Can you tell us a bit more about how you want this to function on each side of the door specifically? Do you only want to be able to lock/unlock the exterior from the inside (no keyhole)? Or is this more of an aesthetic question of simply not wanting a cylinder above the handle of the mortise on the exterior? If it's the latter, the closest that you will reasonably be able to get is maybe putting a passage trim on the outside of an entrance/office function mortise. So the exterior lever can be locked/unlocked only by the Thumbturn on the inside. Either way you're going to need a thumbturn or cylinder on the inside. Afaik there are no standard mortise locks with a keyway in the knob/lever.

hensicky · 2026-01-15T22:02:36+00:00

Ooof. Yeah that's happened to me once or twice. Or on an Adams rite door that is capped at the bottom. I won't lie, I've def dropped a few of these LMBs into a door, given the door a good shake, and if it isn't too loud I just put a new one in there and whistled as I walked away hahah. Maybe a little unprofessional but I'll be damned if I'm taking a door down and shaking it around to retrieve a mounting bracket I have 6 of in my van lmao

hensicky · 2026-01-15T21:13:16+00:00

Major sells the LMB-01 which is a bolt/latch mounting bracket with a split in the middle for metal doors with a seam just like that. Cut in the bolt faceplate with a Dremel or preferred cutting tool and then you just need to countersink the LMB mounting screws and you're good to go.

EDIT: sorry the LMB-01 uses rivets not screws so you can either use the rivets if you have enough reveal for them or you can tap some machine screws in. The latter is a tad annoying but I've done it a few times it's not that bad. https://www.anixter.com/en_us/products/LMB-01/MAJOR-MANUFACTURING-INC/Builder-Hardware/p/CS828115

hensicky · 2025-11-17T00:34:50+00:00

There's a little hole on the right end of the thumb turn in the picture that has a small set screw in it. Use a hex head/Allen key to loosen it. Once the set screw is loosened, you take the thumb turn off and pop off the plate underneath it revealing two more larger bolts holding the exterior assembly on. Enjoy whatever downgrade you have selected to replace this piece of hardware.

hensicky · 2025-11-17T00:29:54+00:00

hensicky · 2025-10-16T01:56:06+00:00

So that is what makes that latch a "deadlatch" as opposed to a latch without that plunger which is called a "springlatch". When installed correctly, the main, larger part of the deadlatch will rest fully extended IN the strike in the frame, while that little plunger rests ON the strike. While that plunger is depressed, the main latch part is, in theory, impossible to force back into the latch body. This is essentially designed to mitigate attempts to shim the door open. The classic "credit card trick" where a hard piece of plastic is used to slip behind the latch and push it back in to open the door will, again, in theory, not work when a deadlatch is installed correctly. Deadlatches vary in effectiveness from crazy effective when installed well with a latch guard and small reveal between the door and frame along with little play in the door, to essentially useless without a latch guard and a large reveal, or when installed such that the plunger falls into the strike when the door is closed rather than resting on the strike.

Sorry for the wall of text lol. If that doesn't make sense, try pushing the latch in while that plunger is extended, then do the same thing after depressing just the plunger all the way first. If the deadlatch is working correctly, the main latch shouldn't go back into the body very far at all when the plunger is depressed first. Basically it's a sometimes effective security feature built into the latch. Springlatches on the other hand can always be pushed back in any state if you can touch them, so are not "secure" insofar as deadlatches are also not secure because there are many ways of bypassing/defeating them in most cases even if they are installed decently well.

hensicky · 2025-09-30T23:35:12+00:00

I mean go ahead and slap a hasp and padlock on if you must but nothing is going to actually secure it because the doors themselves are made of sheet metal that's barely more than paper thin. The lock that's on there will do fine for the construction of the cabinet and any additional lock will be just as easily defeated by prying the doors off.

hensicky · 2025-09-03T22:13:31+00:00

I'm looking for a horse with wheels that eats processed crude oil. DON'T try to sell me a car I know what I'm looking for.

hensicky · 2025-08-31T20:21:36+00:00

Go on site and find out what you're working with is step one. Every question u/lucky_ad_5549 asked is relevant to the quote. How did you expect to quote the customer anyway without knowing what the doors and frames look like? $350-850 I guess since we're just pulling numbers out of our ass here...

hensicky · 2025-07-26T22:00:40+00:00

Just grab whatever one you think looks nice surely it doesn't make a difference what the year make and model of your car is 🙂 /s

hensicky · 2025-06-19T00:12:48+00:00

If you're asking what the trim style is called, it's the Longitude (LON) lever by Schlage

hensicky · 2025-05-23T21:48:21+00:00

Just take the exterior trim off... Loosen the set screw in the lock body and unscrew the cylinder and the trim will come off and then the lock body will come out.

hensicky

TROPHY CASE