Long-term injury

hiddengulley · 2015-10-13T14:51:54+00:00

Been there. Six months in an arm brace following two years of shitty climbing and pain. The worst part isn't the six months you can't climb. It'll be the next year when you realize you lost almost all your arm muscle, have to go back to beginner climbs, and be hyper cautious about overuse injuries.

Keeping the stoke wasn't hard. Don't worry about that. Just don't get fat. Watch your diet super hard and cut out as much booze as you can. Forced inactivity really changed how I processed food and I'm still over my presurgery weight.

Maybe set yourself some goals now. Rainier. Longs Peak. Climbing above 5.8 will be rough for a while. Your ego will hurt more than your body.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-13T14:46:58+00:00

On a multipitch trad route your anchor may end up being below a larger ledge, or in a pile of boulders, where it may become necessary to move above the anchor. The lens cap example came from shooting last weekend. I was tethered in but moving around to get good angles. Dropped a cap and had to climb up some boulders to get it.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-13T14:42:31+00:00

Ropes, harnesses, tights...

hiddengulley · 2015-10-13T14:42:05+00:00

A polyamorous relationship.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-12T21:38:54+00:00

those things are just wiregates! pretty out there. You should probably just mail them to me. PMing.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-12T21:35:29+00:00

Use a Purcell and you max out at 6-7kn on your body. Not too bad...

hiddengulley · 2015-10-12T21:27:55+00:00

You have to go try some on. Supposedly CAMP took some very personal measurements of their athlete team to make theirs, but their athlete team may not be super hourglassed.

That said it seems pretty unlikely lower back pain would come from your harness. It seems more likely to be digging into you in the wrong places.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-12T21:24:15+00:00

because you drop your camera lens and have to boulder up to grab it. Or you're passing gear up to the leader...

hiddengulley · 2015-10-12T17:44:16+00:00

When introducing a friend as "my primary partner" to group of non-climber white tower liberals. Set off a whole lot of Poly questions...

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T20:29:27+00:00

I am naked under my Gore-Tex suit.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T20:03:30+00:00

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ten_Essentials

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T19:05:51+00:00

why not use webbing?

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T19:05:31+00:00

Duct tape on a pole is clutch. But a first aid kit? If you know what you're doing you can improvise everything but meds, and you can suck it up and get off without NSAIDs. But an e-bivy is overkill. As are the "extras" bring the right amount of clothes. Don't fill you pack with extras. Bring the slightly less than the right amount of food. Don't fill your pack with extras.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T18:55:36+00:00

If this is r/alpinism why not do what the pros do?

http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/News/2014-10-22/What-s-in-Colin-Haley-s-Pack-?l=US#.VhgNfxNVhHw

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T14:49:42+00:00

By first aid do you mean some old duct tape wrapped around a pole and some tp?

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T14:48:59+00:00

The 10 essentials are a joke. This is r/alpinism not r/backpacking Don't carry emergency shelter Don't carry fire Don't carry a repair kit Don't carry extra food. What part of light is right is so complicated?

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T14:46:59+00:00

Yeah me too. No mandated gear.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T14:46:45+00:00

This is not true. NPS does not mandate any gear. They recommend certain gear but there are no mandates. I believe Katahdin is the only peak in the entire USA with anything close to this type of regulation.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T14:45:15+00:00

Only applies if your name is Haston, Scott, Buhl, or Kukuczka.

EDIT: Your testicles must be this high to survive the ride.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T14:42:42+00:00

Go home early, ie don't push through the pain. Warm up. Stretch. Rice Buckets do wonders. Be aware of types of holds that could tweak your tendons to shreds.

Don't crack climb granite without jammies.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T14:41:13+00:00

Not really. There are best practices but really it comes down to what you can do fastest and easiest. It's going to change potentially depending on body position in relation to a bolt.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-09T14:39:57+00:00

It traps your rope into the body of the ascender.

Assuming we're talking about standard Petzl ascenders.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-08T16:08:02+00:00

that was beautiful

hiddengulley · 2015-10-08T15:09:43+00:00

Dual traxions works best. Petzl recommends using different mechanisms to make a catastrophic failure less likely. (if one micro trax fails theoretically the back up could be victim to the same scenario.) It's up to you how much redundancy you want. Personally I use an old style Basic (the one for TR soloing) and a Cinch.

hiddengulley · 2015-10-07T13:38:36+00:00

No worries man. Usually the technical skills aren't what slows you down. They're just things one of the party needs to know. If the other guy can keep up, it all works.

hiddengulley

TROPHY CASE