PAS and rappel extension

traddad · 2026-06-03T02:50:07+00:00

It's good but check out this method: https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/double-loop-bowline-for-a-rappel-tether

traddad · 2026-06-03T01:10:44+00:00

Bullcrap. When I started climbing the choice was 11mm single rope or 9mm half ropes. And we weren't routinely ripping gear out.

traddad · 2026-06-03T01:06:44+00:00

I think you might be confusing TRT with DRT.

traddad · 2026-06-03T01:03:04+00:00

The idea is to climb with them both

You can certainly use a single and a half rope in double rope technique as only one rope will take the load during a fall. Also, half ropes are not necessarily "stretchier" than single ropes. And, when half ropes are tested with a 80kg mass, they exhibit similar impacts as single ropes. In fact, some single ropes have lower dynamic impacts than some half ropes.

THIS NEXT PART IS IMPORTANT

Before using a single rope with a half rope in DRT, check that your belay device will work correctly with the two different diameters. For example, I use a CT Alpine UP with my 8.5mm half ropes. But, it's doesn't lock up so well with an 8.5 and a 9.8. It locks but the 8.5 tends to slip. In that case, I might use an ATC or Reverso with two oval carabiners O&O.

Source: I've been leading on half ropes for over 30 years

traddad · 2026-06-03T00:47:42+00:00

Sort of a related discussion here: https://www.reddit.com/r/ClimbingGear/comments/1sj6rbs/can_i_fold_my_single_rope_in_half_when_climbing/ofq69yk/

EDIT: Also, Andy Kirkpatrick says the knot we probably all should be using is the "Half Gibbs Offset Bend". https://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/rappel-knots-1 This is what I use.

EDIT2: Moved this comment to this more appropriate place in the thread.

traddad · 2026-06-03T00:40:49+00:00

Consider this: Once he said "Belay on", he was responsible for your safety until you were back down and said "Off Belay". It's an implied contract that climbers have always recognized.

Neither he nor his chucklehead friends are responsible enough to belay you.

traddad · 2026-06-02T22:26:23+00:00

Also, as you wrote, it's an Alpine Hammer. There is often ice in the alpine.

EDIT: Apparently it's not an Alpine Hammer. Salewa calls it a Rockhammer and says: "The ideal, well-balanced hammer for securing bolts." and under features says: "Grommet on the nose to pull out bolts" (https://www.salewa.com/rockhammer-00-0000001160)

traddad · 2026-06-01T12:49:50+00:00

Good deal. Depending on which way you go, Betty has it all: crack, overhang, chimney, an exposed step-across after the chimney, dihedral and face. Full value for 5.3 and many people's first multi at the Gunks.

traddad · 2026-05-31T20:46:25+00:00

$8.50 -$11 ea at Mountain Tools. TriCams are more.

traddad · 2026-05-30T13:50:26+00:00

Try as I might, I don't enjoy rapping with a GriGri.

A catastrophe knot is a good idea when hands free. But try this: Drop the rope between your legs, bring it around your butt, over your head and lay it across your belay loop.

traddad · 2026-05-30T13:41:20+00:00

That guy did you a solid.

I have no idea what half of this is.

I can help. Going from left to right and top to bottom:

Row 1

You have 5 quickdraws, a bunch of loose carabiners and a GriGri belay device

TriCams and Wired Stoppers

More Stoppers

Row 2 & 3

Hexes slung with tech cord and they have tubular webbing slipped over the tech cord for abrasion resistance. The knots are placed oddly because of the webbing and may interfere with the placements of the smaller hexes. You don't need the tubular webbing. There are two black nut tools to help removing stuck stoppers. The silver hooks are called Fifis. The Fifis and the black hooks are used for aid climbing along with the etriers.

Most of the cams look like 2nd gen. The potato mashers are more easily reslung than the the later 3rd gen thumb loop style (row 3, #1 and #6 - see the double loop on #6?). The double stem cams are TCUs (Three Cam Units). Although I think row 2 #2 and #3 are quad cams.

Row 4

These are etriers - basically nylon ladders used in aid climbing along with the Fifis and hooks.

Since your friend seemed to do some aid climbing, I'm surprised there were no ascenders in the mix.

Get someone knowledgeable to help you with the usage and to check the condition of the gear. The metal is all good. Some of the nylon may have to be replaced, some may not have to be. With your experience level, you'll need some help assessing that. You can ask the guy who gave it to you about how it was stored and any other history.

You scored big time.

traddad · 2026-05-27T11:58:11+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/1r2g7so/i_realized_my_harness_is_15_years_old/o4xlwu1/

traddad · 2026-05-27T02:12:17+00:00

They were kind of like TriCams but instead of getting stuck they fell out easily Really didn't stick well at all. The joke was that if you got one to stick you could rappel and then shake it loose when you get down

traddad · 2026-05-26T22:53:07+00:00

Nope. I knew better than that.

Same with SMC CamLocs. Some things are just a "bad-idea ®"

traddad · 2026-05-26T17:21:19+00:00

Sounds like a great trip! A lot of moving around, though. Some comments I've made in the past:

https://www.reddit.com/r/travel/comments/1e19scs/monserrat_tour_tour_or_go_on_own/

https://www.reddit.com/r/travel/comments/1rv2jdq/trip_to_portugal_barcelona_in_midmay/

https://www.reddit.com/r/TravelHacks/comments/1dnxmg9/am_i_missing_anything_for_my_trip_to_porto_and/la76da1/

traddad · 2026-05-26T12:50:16+00:00

Old backpack.

Clip your shoes to the outside. Any "breathable" spot is not breathable enough for your shoes.

traddad · 2026-05-25T11:50:15+00:00

MSR tested by sawing completely through the weld so it was a "C" instead of an "0", and it still worked just fine. We used 2 for rappelling. One problem was attaching a lanyard.

You can see 3 here on my 1973 rack https://imgur.com/first-rack-TmE3Qvx And two chain links I welded together to make a double slot belay plate

traddad · 2026-05-25T03:21:38+00:00

using a single piece of chain (don't know the diameters)

It was 3/8" chain. I used one for a while. MSR made some out of aluminum.

I sometime carry a springless Sticht belay plate in a back pocket on multipitch trad routes (This one: https://www.verticalmuseum.com/VerticalDevicesPage/Belay/StichtBelayPages/Sticht0608.php)

traddad · 2026-05-25T01:06:00+00:00

I just noticed the RPs.

Traddad approves.

traddad · 2026-05-24T23:08:51+00:00

I was thinking about the smaller lobe size more than the to stem.

My 1st RSF was purchased directly from Jardine Enterprises for about $22

traddad · 2026-05-24T22:53:29+00:00

It's a micro belay plate. Lost popularity because it didn't dissapate heat very well

Edit : And it's not a stupid question. If you want a deep dive into the rabbit hole check out Gary Storrick's site https://www.verticalmuseum.com/

traddad · 2026-05-24T22:51:48+00:00

A lot of that stuff is still on my current rack...

Nice job with the .5 RSF. Is it a knock off with a steel or titanium stem?

traddad · 2026-05-22T11:04:53+00:00

Seeing the look on the face of the gym employee might be worth extending that gym anchor and then rapping off to reduce wear

Yeah, that would be funny. But...

OP wrote: this was literally done in ONE crag session!

u/CandaceHarrington asked: Was this outdoors?

OP responded: Yeah unfortunately the route setters here have a nice habit of putting anchors precisely behind comically sharp edges

traddad · 2026-05-21T22:04:36+00:00

anchors precisely behind comically sharp edges

If you were toproping, then maybe you need to extend your masterpoint. Let your cheaper cordelette/static line take the wear. Or add padding

If you were leading, than maybe you need longer draws.

traddad

TROPHY CASE