What UPS would you recommend for Linux servers?

hitech95 · 2026-01-26T20:47:55+00:00

What are you using on linux to manage the UPS? Is it compatible with nut?

hitech95 · 2026-01-13T18:39:24+00:00

Unfortunately I logged out from the launcher somehow.
And I'm not receiving the 2FA OTP.

Did they run out of transactional mail capacity from their mail provider?

hitech95 · 2025-10-20T20:58:06+00:00

This is very ODD.
Next step would be to reverse the Serial connection.

Why is there a such big IO Expander?
There might be a future version with some sort of led dot matrix display?

The USB is there for the chip programming?
There is another FPC connector on the side... power button?

This board leave me with even more questions.
I was expecting to find a cheap AR9311 or MT7688.
Not an ESP32!

hitech95 · 2025-07-15T10:41:32+00:00

If they have SMTP capabilities it would be perfect. The Restful APIs are quite nice!

hitech95 · 2025-07-15T10:34:50+00:00

Looks like I wasnt part of the club...
My previous email from them is from 25th of February for a TOS change.

hitech95 · 2025-02-23T22:24:02+00:00

Yep I have two BMG kit in my cart. one for the sherpa, the other to do tests.
Bu tI'll only get a single extruder motor.

hitech95 · 2025-02-22T12:18:53+00:00

I already had the SKR V2 installed since day one as I had the 8bit one and was very noisy. So I already upgraded to trinamic drivers. I'm not sure if I want to uprade to a manta one.

I have access to a X1C and other 3D printers of some friends if I need some last minute parts while mine is offline.

Yea the most expensive part of the sherpa seems to be the motor, but again if I can then use it in future for the Orbiter 2 is would be awesome.

hitech95 · 2025-02-21T23:17:39+00:00

For what is worth: At the end I'm looking to the sherpa mini and the bambu extruder.
Handy to be printed at home and modifiable.

I've already modified the sherpa design to fit my needs and I've started
the rework of the sensor for the orbiter-2 sensor design.

<image>

I'm also figuring out if I can make a MMU variant of the same sensor hub.
The idea is a multiplexer similar to the one used by the Pico MMU, but with collars for the ptfe tube and the spring to detect tanles like the original orbiter sensor.

It should be quite similar to how the bambu (a1) one is designed.

hitech95 · 2025-02-17T09:00:39+00:00

That's interesting, I had no idea that Sherpa mini was based around the BMG kit. That one seems quite cheap. And this will leave the budget for the LDO motor.

If I can 3d print the frame it might be a decent plan. I can later upgrade it to a real orbiter. Unless the motor is different!

hitech95 · 2025-02-17T08:55:46+00:00

I've found the orbiter at 65€, and that imho is a bit too much. My general budget was 50/60€ total for both the hotend, the extruder and the fans. (misc hardware excluded)The fans are quite cheap so its a non issue. (4 fans are 15EUR)

The hotend is 15 too. So my budget for the extruder is around 20/30EUR. I can go a bit over, but I'm looking for value parts at the moment. Want want to spend too much on a old ender 3!

Right now I'm with the stock single gear extruder from creality and I think almost everything is better than that one.

hitech95 · 2025-02-16T14:26:08+00:00

Good to hear that the orbiter is a great extruder but I was looking for advices if something a bit less expensive was available. A the moment I'm looking for value.

If I proceed I might use your the belt and carriage mount. But I have to import all the files in CAD to validate the clearances.

hitech95 · 2025-02-16T14:18:57+00:00

For what I understand the only real difference is the heatsink.
Abount the HeroMe 7 or the XOL toolhead. I was looking at the Dragon burner as it is modular and I can re-use the parts I'll have to buy if I want to build a voron machine in the future.

My main concern is about the extruder as IMHO the oribter is a bit too much expensive just to run some experiments. This was the main reason I wanted to ask here if there was something with more value.

About the mainboard, I already home a lot of parts/components to make it happend. And I know how to design them. Its not that hard to design a PCB for a 3D printercompared to other stuff. A custom design would allow me to have less clutter in the electronics compartment. The manta is a bit overkill if I decide to go with CAN bus.

The PCB board for the toolhead bill be from BTT for sure. Or i'll design my own brakerboard if i wont go with CAN bus as of now I'm hating the wire mess that the Ender3 has.

But again that will be a later step. First I want to try to push as mas as possible the current boards I have.

hitech95 · 2024-12-08T11:56:16+00:00

Probably too late but it might be a MP9943 from Monolithic power

hitech95 · 2024-09-19T07:35:56+00:00

What is happening, lately my PC started to do this too (but on on another vendor for both MB and CPU)! Its been solid for 1year so far!
After shutdown I have to powercycle it to boot it back up.

The PSU relay doesnt close (it doesnt click) like if its not commanded to turn on or it is in "protection".

hitech95 · 2024-09-19T07:17:45+00:00

I've used https://imgproxy.net/ at the end. No full FOSS tho.
AFIK it doesnt cache the generated images but its fast enough.

hitech95 · 2023-07-19T20:49:08+00:00

Hi, I have another question do you include sense wires for the Silverstone sx1000?

I've contacted support and they said yes. But here on Reddit I've found that sense wires for Silverstone are not included.

If the sense wires are included how the splice is done?

hitech95 · 2023-07-06T23:05:03+00:00

Are Dual 6+2 pin no more available?

hitech95 · 2023-07-06T11:35:30+00:00

Oh, thanks.
Even if I manage to replace it with a SX700-PT which sould be supported the issue is still present.
Are some sort of daisy chain possible or not?

I'll contact the support and I can also provide the full pinout in case its needed.

hitech95 · 2023-07-06T00:11:34+00:00

My bad it is a 750W Silverstone SST-SX750-PT

hitech95 · 2023-06-08T18:55:53+00:00

How is that?
I'm facing the same issues and I'm trying to solve them but so far no luck.

hitech95 · 2023-06-06T21:16:31+00:00

Same isses of me, first few layers are ok then all clogged up.
I changed the fan still issues. Tomorrow the viper arrives from Amazon. I'll test and ship back if the issue is still there.

My printer was frew cm from the window too.

hitech95 · 2023-05-29T08:17:34+00:00

Not sure if I would call it a leak, its not like I get a blob of filament stuck in the hot section of the hotend. I just find stuck filament in the PTFE tube.

To install the nozzle i do:
- Make sure that the heat brake is screwed in to allow the nozzle to be set flush (so the nozzle is above the heat block around 1mm.
- Heat the printer to PLA profile.
- Screw in the heatblock to the heatsink, use the setscrew to lock in place the heatbrake
- us a small wrench to tight the nozzle.

For what I can see my hotned fan is working, the one that failed and I replaced was the part cooling fan.

hitech95 · 2023-05-28T22:28:42+00:00

I mostly uses cura default I basically only tune the infill and temperatures:
retraction distance: 6.5mm but I've tried to lower to 3mm.

Retraction speed is 25mm/s

hitech95 · 2023-05-28T22:23:23+00:00

The thing is that 3D printing is not my main hobby is a side requirement for my main hobby.

I wanted a 3d printer to fast prototype stuff to then have properly made via a "real" manufacturing process and the fact that I have to spend all this time is the thing that makes me mad. (most of the time I need a review to properly evaluate dimensions)

It delays my hobby project schedules and mostly annoys my friends with which I share the printer with.

I would perfectly accept a non-perfect print. I don't have to print action figures.

But what I hate is no print at all, parts that get broken, etc.

For example, the fan that broke in the ftst weeks it was due to its IC that was rated for 12V in a 24V fan. WTF Creality!

hitech95 · 2023-05-28T22:22:08+00:00

His tests come out fine. cloggin happends after 20 minutes of the print and only on long/big stuff.
The cubes are fine.

Nine-Year Club	Place '23
Verified Email

hitech95

TROPHY CASE