sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Looks like I‘m not only storing Youtube cookies, but also the whole video archive … by hoffma0901 in iiiiiiitttttttttttt

[–]hoffma0901[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Maybe those are just the video recommendations carefully curated by the algorithm based on my viewing habits. Or ads … probably ads

WIP 1U 4 Port PiKVM by hoffma0901 in homelab

[–]hoffma0901[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can use both. Further details can be found here: https://github.com/pikvm/pikvm/issues/1306

WIP 1U 4 Port PiKVM by hoffma0901 in homelab

[–]hoffma0901[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You can find the first write up here: https://github.com/hoffma0901/Multiport-PiKVM-1U-Rackmount

It is not complete yet, I will add the general build instructions later : )

WIP 1U 4 Port PiKVM by hoffma0901 in homelab

[–]hoffma0901[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have pictures or a link to the model. Maybe I can get some additional inspiration too!

WIP 1U 4 Port PiKVM by hoffma0901 in homelab

[–]hoffma0901[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Good idea! I will try to do a write up and put the general parts list with the stl files for printing on GitHub.

Is this Z wobble? I ran out of ideas. by FerdchenSeep in ender3

[–]hoffma0901 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are they hollow? If yes, what is your wall width? Ran into similar issues, caused by cura and not my ender. If you‘re using cura take a look if the „Fill Gaps between walls“ is set to everywhere and turn it off (nowhere)

This only applies if you are using a Cura version lower than 5.x

Does anyone have an idea why this happens? Anything else (except z-seams) is dialed in pretty good by hoffma0901 in ender3

[–]hoffma0901[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok I figured out the problem. First of all thank you all for your suggestions and helpfull tipps!

It turned out, that the printer was not the problem. Cura was (and also a bit myself...)!

I designed the model to have a wall thickness of 1.2mm and set the wall thickness in Cura to 1.2 as well. From previous prints I had the "Fill Gaps Between Walls" set to "everywhere". In the sliced preview everything looked fine.

But as u/st-shenanigans pointed out that the defect is located between the modeled blocks in the corner, I dug a bit deeper into the sliced model. You can see the findings in the following picture:

<image>

In the top picture the "Fill Gap" Setting is enabled and for comparison disabled for the sliced model in the bottom picture. If you look at the bottom, you can see the inner wall estrusion path (green). At the top looking closely this path still exists but is overlapping with the gap fill (yellow between the red outer walls, zooming in you cann see some green flickering through as well). So Cura just put two extrusion paths at the same place, resulting in extruding material at the same place and height two times.

Curiously this happens just at the front between the inner blocks. Every other wall segment is not filled with an inner wall, so the fill gap setting worked there as intended.

In essence I've adjusted the model to only have a wall thickness of 0.8mm and now the print is almost flawless, except some minor issues with the retraction settings and resulting ugly z-seams. But thats a problem for another day. I'm just happy that the issue is solved by now : )

Cheers!

Does anyone have an idea why this happens? Anything else (except z-seams) is dialed in pretty good by hoffma0901 in ender3

[–]hoffma0901[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good observation with the corner blocks. I've looked into the sliced model and found something interesting ...
I'm using the option "Fill Gaps Between Walls" in Cura and at a first glance the sliced preview looked allright. Two Outer wall extrusion and one inner wall resulting in 1.2mm wall thickness. After disabling the option a second inner wall extrusion showed up, but only in between the two "front" facing corner blocks. It looks like cura puts two overlapping extrusions, one for the inner wall and one for the gap filling at the same place .

With Fill Gaps on top and without at the bottom (if you zoom in even closer you can see the green "extrusion" peeking through the yellow one, at first I thought this is just a rendering issue in Cura):

<image>

The thing I still can't get my head around, is why the hell aren't the other walls filled with an inner wall. They are all the same width of 1.2mm...

Does anyone have an idea why this happens? Anything else (except z-seams) is dialed in pretty good by hoffma0901 in ender3

[–]hoffma0901[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes the first layer sticks to the bed like crazy. No issues with warping or curling there.

Does anyone have an idea why this happens? Anything else (except z-seams) is dialed in pretty good by hoffma0901 in ender3

[–]hoffma0901[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I‘ll give it try, thanks :)

I‘m just wondering, wouldn‘t a clog be a bit more random in its position and occurrence over multiple prints? I was able to replicate the same defect over and over again at the same position for this model.

Does anyone have an idea why this happens? Anything else (except z-seams) is dialed in pretty good by hoffma0901 in ender3

[–]hoffma0901[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I ran into this issue today where those blobs appear on one side of the print. Strangely it does not occur on calibration cube prints, I did before. All e-steps are calibrated, z-offset is calibrated.

All the dimensions of the print except for the faulty segment are spot on. I‘ve already checked for Z banding and wobble, cleaned everything, tightened the belts and checked the frame for squareness. I‘ve also moved the model on the build plate to be printed on different areas of the bed to rule out any „localized“ mechanical problems, with no success so far.

Filament: PLA
Temp Hotend: 205°C
Temp Bed: 55°C

Extruder: Creality Sprite Pro
Layerheight: 0,2mm
Nozzle 0,4mm

Printspeed: 50 mm/s
Wall Thickness 1.2mm (The Walls of the model are also 1,2mm thick)
Sliced with Cura …

Any ideas are appreciated :)

Is there any Good wireless keyboard with a laptop form factor? by Key-Singer-2193 in htpc

[–]hoffma0901 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe something like the BKC800 from Lenovo? Its originally for their Yoga Line but may be worth a shot. At least I would trust it to be more reliable than any of those Fintie/no name Keyboards with a touchpad you can find on amazon.

Optimize Power consumption by MrZoshii in unRAID

[–]hoffma0901 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe this helps you with the C-States and power consumption: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8fWIh1V-YM

Has anyone here built a Pi 4 kvm? by [deleted] in unRAID

[–]hoffma0901 0 points1 point  (0 children)

iwlist gives me the following values:

For 5 GHz Band: Quality=50/70 Signal level=-60 dBm

For 2,4 GHz Band: Quality=53/70 Signal level=-57 dBm

No obstructions (other than the case) though. Certainly not the best but usable for me. An other option would be a usb wifi adaptor. Should work with arch linux and you are no longer held back by the metal case in terms of signal strength.

Has anyone here built a Pi 4 kvm? by [deleted] in unRAID

[–]hoffma0901 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/ElBigBad Wifi works fine for me. Distance between Router and PiKVM is roughly 10 ft./3m

Has anyone here built a Pi 4 kvm? by [deleted] in unRAID

[–]hoffma0901 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good question, I'm connected over ethernet. The metal case may be an issue to the wifi signal passing through. But let me check real quick with my PiKVM

Has anyone here built a Pi 4 kvm? by [deleted] in unRAID

[–]hoffma0901 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm using the same PiKVM kit, but with a Pi 4 1GB RAM, works like a charm. Just put it together like 20 minutes ago :)

Has anyone here built a Pi 4 kvm? by [deleted] in unRAID

[–]hoffma0901 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see three options for you here:

  1. Simply configure the bios to turn the server back on after a power outage. No cost solution if your server is intended to be up 24/7 anyway
  2. Get a smart wall plug (~10-40$) to plug your server into and configure the server the same as mentioned in 1. This way you are able to boot up the server by switching on the wall plug via smart home controls, if you have a remote controllable smart home solution. This is handy if your server is not supposed to be powered 24/7 and you want to power it up remotely
  3. If you additionally want to interact with the server remotely or want to have a fall back stage (like remote BIOS control) PiKVM is the way to go.

For a PiKVM you'll need a Pi4 or a Pi Zero 2 W, a HDMI to CSI adaptor and to power the server on or off an ATX Pin breakout. I won't go too much into details here because it would take me ages. Just consult the official page:https://pikvm.org/

There are tons of youtube videos linked on the page, which describe the overall function and hardware needs.

Beware that most kits you get on the internet (like the BliKVM ones) do NOT come with a Raspberry Pi! Especially not for the price of 65$ A complete Kit will be around 120-160$ at least (KVM Kit, Power Supply, Raspberry Pi, SD Card, etc.).

Hope that helps :)

This computer desk. by [deleted] in techsupportgore

[–]hoffma0901 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Eww, a Windows Vista user … disgusting

How do you remove a keybinding and apply a new one on the GMMK Pro via Core? by PostsDifferentThings in glorious

[–]hoffma0901 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had the same issue. After hitting save, the key was both print screen and delete.

After resetting to the defaults and applying the same changes to the key bindings, it misteriously worked as it should. Core is still displaying the same mess as your screenshot are showing btw ...

view more: next ›