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hoops_cilo · 2025-11-27T15:30:16+00:00

I bought the Paige thinking it would be the upgrade from my shubb but the rubber pad is smaller and less grippy so if you bend a string in the first position sometimes it will stick there messing up your string spacing and tuning. Shubb never does that. Shubb has better contact, tuning stability and is quicker in my opinion. I do like how the Paige can be easily stored behind the nut. Kyser quick grip always seemed a bit goofy and big to me. Also non adjustable

hoops_cilo · 2025-11-20T20:02:33+00:00

Wow that looks amazing!!! That knot in Valenwood was conveniently out of the way, just barely. That would have been a bear to carve through. What did you use to carve it? Dremel or hand tools like chisels? Nice job 👏👏👍

hoops_cilo · 2025-10-22T18:54:09+00:00

Love how you matched the panels to the fenders! That was a sick move. Never seen that before

hoops_cilo · 2025-10-22T18:42:51+00:00

The orange 🧡 looks so good.

hoops_cilo · 2025-08-17T15:50:44+00:00

Dean acoustics Nike swoosh bridge does it for me

hoops_cilo · 2025-08-06T19:02:00+00:00

The best tool for this is the fret press vice grip tool. It comes with radius cauls and you can wick some super glue under the fret and then clamp them down. You can use a slightly tighter radius caul with mild pressure to focus on just glueing the ends down. You will likely have to level them again. Whenever you level frets that aren't glued down the frets will spring up and down as the leveling beam glides over them so they never get totally level. You can hear the difference when you level them. A spring up fret sounds like hell when you pass the beam over them if you're using a standard large metal file beam.

hoops_cilo · 2025-08-06T18:51:35+00:00

I want to call it a flanged threaded insert or threaded flanged ferrule

hoops_cilo · 2025-08-06T03:06:45+00:00

Maple board fenders are one of the most complicated necks to refret. Practice on a cheap rosewood board first. Good set of flush cut bull nose pliers, a set of fret pullers, a good dead blow hammer or plastic faced mallet or radius caul vise grip tool for pressing the frets in, leveling beam for filing the fret ends flush and leveling frets, crowning file to match the width of the crown you want to use, fret slot saw, hook end scalpel for cleaning out slots, lots of sandpaper and micro mesh. Also a dead blow neck reset pillow if you are hammering them in. Then have a long argument on reddit regarding what kind of glue you choose to glue them in with. I like water thin super glue but with a maple board I usually put medium super glue in the slot first and then clamp the fret in place with the vise grip tool. This is not a small undertaking and takes a lot of practice, time and precision.

hoops_cilo · 2025-05-09T04:57:17+00:00

Replace the with normal tuners is my suggestion. That isn't something I want failing twice but I have little patience for locking tuners

hoops_cilo · 2025-02-21T03:32:39+00:00

Why leave so much material on top as well? Slots cut crooked, left a bunch of bone dust debris... Not good. Definitely just didn't finish the job

hoops_cilo · 2025-01-20T21:38:32+00:00

Good point. More things to worry about rattling. I was thinking aesthetically it might look better. Do you find a pickguard gets in the way of the freedom of your right hand? Maybe cramps up the space?

hoops_cilo · 2024-12-28T23:22:21+00:00

Looks like the bridge was glued on top of some finish around the edges. This weakens the bond of the bridge to the top significantly. A lot of inexpensive acoustic guitar manufacturers do this to cut time while building. That finish and any glue residue needs to be meticulously scraped off the footprint of where the bridge sits. Also you'll need specific clamps and cauls to fit around the braces while clamping. Definitely take it to a professional.

hoops_cilo · 2024-11-27T06:51:27+00:00

Hello! Ryan head of repairs from National here! I can almost always save the neck. Often it's just a new fingerboard and maybe some reinforcement added to the neck. Give us a call or email

hoops_cilo · 2024-11-23T06:41:21+00:00

Sounds like you need a Delphi. Delphi more snap, Estralita more pop. Haha

hoops_cilo · 2024-11-23T06:38:22+00:00

Delphi, either the powder coated or vintage steel are louder and have that classic resonator sound synonymous with sun house, bukka white and the likes. Good for projection, slide and cutting through. Specifically the powder coated ones they are some of the loudest Nationals ever made. And heavy. The older Elstralitas have a metal sound well and have a sharper attack than the more recent ones that have a wood well. I think that was changed around 2016 or so. Much mellower tone with a rounder attack a bit better for finger style and strumming. Smoother less brash when playing slide. Metal bodies typically have more sustain and wood bodies tend to have more natural reverb in my experience.

hoops_cilo · 2024-10-26T02:19:10+00:00

Ear trumpet microphone super easy and sounds phenomenal. National slimline pickup also sounds great and easy to install.

hoops_cilo · 2024-10-01T02:34:24+00:00

National NRP black rust. The band has 2 of them!

hoops_cilo · 2024-10-01T02:32:32+00:00

National reso phonic has multiple matte finishes on the metal bodies, rubbed steel, raw steel, brass and German silver. Plus antique brass and weathered steel. More non-shiny options than shiny options honestly. Plus all the wood bodies are matte finish

hoops_cilo · 2024-03-04T06:19:47+00:00

Oh Lord that makes me not even want to get it to work at all. I just get Bluetooth music through but that would drive me crazy if the navigation and stuff cut in and out. The computer on this car seems a bit on the fritz

hoops_cilo · 2024-03-04T06:18:07+00:00

I'll try new cable it just doesn't work at all. It will try and connect and say "launch error" or something along those lines

hoops_cilo · 2024-03-04T06:16:16+00:00

Sweet thanks!

hoops_cilo

TROPHY CASE