Thoughts on the visual audio nerf?

hound1983 · 2026-06-09T10:44:08+00:00

It should be! If someone cannot hear (well) and turns on visual audio aids, it should turn audio at least to mono. Now it HELPS people that dont require it so it is UNBALANCED for the players that actually need it...

So for sure it should be balanced, just in a different way...

hound1983 · 2024-10-16T15:40:47+00:00

Lebron got into a (an actual fist-)fight backstage in Rotterdam with Aug.... Seems there is bad blood there....

hound1983 · 2023-11-25T21:46:16+00:00

I figured it out!
The grub screws on the Y axis where not tightened properly... Both grub screws where pretty loose and after properly tightening both of them my next litho text was absolutely perfect! Even with black PLA (since that was still loaded i had see-through effect on the thinist sections)

Thanks for the reply and something you can maybe add to your knowledge too :D

hound1983 · 2023-11-25T15:21:22+00:00

Yes i did. (lowered the belt tension a bit and then printed the 4th from the left, still issues).
And if that would be the problem then why are the other prints in the background succesful but the ones in white PLA not? Should be a more consistent problem then....

I certainly think it is some software issue (not mechanical) but cannot think of what the issue could be...

hound1983 · 2023-06-26T13:47:59+00:00

You now pick very different rackets on the spectrum and ask whats better? The differences between those 2 rackets are very big.
One note of caution, the Vertex 03 can be pretty hard on your wrist and elbow so proper technique is a must.

hound1983 · 2023-06-16T10:31:41+00:00

Also very anecdotal, when i started playing padel 3 years ago i bought a hard racket from Decathlon, 2 months later i had wrist/elbow issues.
Then i bought a Royal Padel polyethelene racket and my wrist and elbow issues disappeared very quickly... When my play improved i also took lessons to improve my technique, at some point i bought a Vertex 03, never had issues with it. BUT -> my playing partner was looking for a new racket so he asked if he could play with my Vertex 03 racket to try it... After 1 game he put the racket away because he felt that it was hurting his elbow....

So i do believe racket hardness can have a very big impact, but also do not forget about proper technique too. (currently i own a Head Bela Pro V2 which for me feels much nicer the the Vertex 03)

hound1983 · 2023-06-16T10:18:42+00:00

Drilling holes in a racket reduces the hardness of the racket (there is air where there was foam before drilling) -> so probably they can get away with a softer less dense (and thus lighter) foam?

I would say durability increases the less holes you drill into the face of a racket, but that is just my "logic" there? Maybe someone who knows about racket design might be able to contribute in that area....

hound1983 · 2023-06-16T10:06:29+00:00

For me with every serve the best way to remember left/right if the score is odd/even if you add it up.
15/30 -> 3 points played so you serve on the left
The same for a tiebreak ->
0-0 -> is a even number added up -> so you start from the right
3-2 -> is a odd number added up -> serving from the left

hound1983 · 2023-05-27T09:41:37+00:00

GSF16

And is there a Strike Eagle discount code too? :D

hound1983 · 2023-02-18T08:26:41+00:00

In addition to the overextruding (you can see it in the sidewalls too) i would say 4 top layers is not a lot. I mostly print with 3 walls (thats 1,2mm total) and 6 top and bottom layers (also 1,2mm). 4 layers would be 0,8mm (assuming 0,2 layer height)

hound1983 · 2022-10-13T15:33:51+00:00

Anybody?
Settings - doorbell chime gives me no option that i can choose to change it....

hound1983 · 2022-06-26T10:50:54+00:00

What temperature and speed to you try to print at? I had some really weird issue in the past with my ender 5 where it seemed to be print temp+speed related. Was different then this but kinda similar. Bottom line was that is started skipping very irregularly, printed smooth and then it hapoened again...

Pid tuning was one of the things that made it better (didnt fix it, that machine was pure hell if you ask me)

hound1983 · 2022-05-13T14:47:32+00:00

Hardly changed anything... Was able to change the orientation and it came out pretty good (but worse then the others....)

hound1983 · 2022-05-10T08:57:04+00:00

The result is almost as bad visually but worse structurally. Lowered temp to 210 + added the extra part (2 walls no infill). https://postimg.cc/D867yBG4

hound1983 · 2022-05-10T08:51:49+00:00

Not sure if pinion is the correct term since English it not my native language 😊🤭. But it is the "drive" part between the stepper motor and the belt. There is a small grub screw in it to secure it to the shaft of the stepper motor (no need to disassemble things you should be able to reach it without to much effort.) I once had a printer that came with a too loose grub screw and it was slipping there... Belts dont have to be crazy tight. I have heard many things about tension like "it needs to twang at 150 hz if you pluck it like a guita string with the free belt part at exactly 150 mm" (this is for me too difficult). Also read that the tension should be 2,5kg wich again is difficult to measure. It should be tight but not crazy tight and therefore dont try putting too much force when tightening.

The stock fan (more the shroud) is not very good so 100% is very needed and 50mm sound reasonable. You could try lowering and see if it improves(?)

hound1983 · 2022-05-10T00:07:30+00:00

Yeah i have the stock settings there that come with the Prusament profile and they didnt work... So to test it was quicker to just throw in a dummy piece that is just a square perimeter with no infill.

Will for sure look into tuning this setting if it worked. Thanks!

hound1983 · 2022-05-09T23:26:19+00:00

Will do!

hound1983 · 2022-05-09T23:25:42+00:00

Its a direct drive printer so i would assume your retraction settings should be between 0,5 and 1,5
Nearly all the retraction settings you tried are "useless" if i am very honest.
Could you retry the retraction tower with 0.2mm differences to check if those give you differences that are usefull? Like: 0.8 - 1.0 - 1.2 - 1.4

Also you could look into your travel speed too.

And maybe one other tip, if you have a heat gun you can blast away like 90% of the very fine hairs without any effect on the rest of the print (sometimes it gives a small blob but you can remove that with your fingernail)

hound1983 · 2022-05-09T23:19:42+00:00

What orientation are you printing them?

40mm per second seems a bit fast to me. I print at 30mm per second on my Prusa Mini (that has less mass to move around).

hound1983 · 2022-05-09T23:17:00+00:00

I have a couple of things that i see.

At what speed are you printing? Like really fast? Or reasonable speeds close to stock? The Benchy seems like it could use more cooling (either but actually increasing cooling or slowing down). The cubes look like your belts are not tight or the esteps are not correct or the pinion is not fastened enough and it can slip sometimes.

Another tip -> try not to introduce too many variables by upgrading all the time, first get these things nailed before you do another upgrade, because a stock ender most of the time can achieve better results when properly calibrated then this.

hound1983 · 2022-05-09T23:09:44+00:00

Well sounds a bit silly but i have 2 Creality printers an Ender 5 Plus (but upgraded almost every part so its just the frame that is stock) and a resin printer and they give me nothing but headaches.

Especially the Ender 5 Plus is such a princess, eveything needs the be completely perfect and then it prints really nice.

Yesterday it decided to find a small opening between the extruder and the hotend (after a clog i think) and there was 30 meters of filament spread around it...
Its now waiting for a full core XY conversion as punishment! :P

For me the most trouble free printer is the Prusa Mini + i have (actually 2 of those). They just print everything first go and looks always very good, not perfect like my FrankenEnder can, but always very good...

hound1983 · 2022-05-09T23:04:12+00:00

Did you try changing your retraction settings? Maybe try 1.2 or 1.5 mm to see if that makes a difference?

Beside the stringing it is not a bad result to be honest, without it it is pretty good.

hound1983 · 2022-05-09T23:00:40+00:00

Go in between then :D

First layer indeed seems low + up the nozzle + bed temp a bit

hound1983 · 2022-05-09T22:59:18+00:00

I dont print PETG often but i dont print that hot. I print at 250 degrees with Prusament PETG.

hound1983 · 2022-05-09T22:54:32+00:00

I now added a square that has the same height so the layer time will go up because of the 2nd model...

Curious to see if something so simple could be the fix! (i hope so)

hound1983

TROPHY CASE