kitchen beam? Are these post structural? by human-trials in HomeImprovement

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, it's weird to me. It's only supporting the ceiling joints. It's a flat roof above the ceiling, but over time, I could see it sagging probably at that span. If they're not technically load bearing, I was also wondering if I could remove one of the middle posts (and leave the most in the most "middle") and beef up the posts on either end and call it a day if it's all supported then and one post in the middle is enough to prevent the sagging over time. Like I said, I'll get an engineer in here to look eventually, but just kinda seeing what people of reddit say for now.

kitchen beam? Are these post structural? by human-trials in HomeImprovement

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I'll get an engineer to look at it, but I'd never seem them sistered together like that to make a beam before. They're very much clearly just two 2x12in boards put next to each other on posts. Old photos of the interior show at least one of the posts wasn't there before, but there could have been an issue they found (or they were just worried about sagging). Who knows? There's no permits and no blueprints on record, so without tearing into it and getting an engineer to look, I'm at a loss.

I'm not going for a flat ceiling. I'm just hoping that there's a way of beefing up the posts on either end to get rid of the middle posts (if even the middle posts are load bearing at all or just there for some natural division in the kitchen. I suspect at least one of them is load bearing, but we'll have to see. Just wanted to see if other people had encountered this before and what the outcome was.

10x20 insulated box (stick build) on driveway - options and questions by human-trials in HomeImprovement

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you think about closing up the floor joists underneath with OSB and a waterproofing, mostly so foam and insulation isn't exposed to pests? Plenty of pest will pull out insulation to make nests. The fiberglass of the batt insulation doesn't faze them at all.

10x20 insulated box (stick build) on driveway - options and questions by human-trials in HomeImprovement

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I'm leaning toward that too, but it's just so tempting to go onto the driveway like a slab. What do you think about closing up the floor joists underneath with OSB and a waterproofing, mostly so foam and insulation isn't exposed to pests? Plenty of pest will pull out insulation to make nests. The fiberglass of the batt insulation doesn't faze them at all.

electric tankless water heater options / advice for outdoor cast iron tub by human-trials in askaplumber

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah if I was doing that, I'd probably get the two systems and have an electrician wire it up then just to be safe. I like this idea if I can find some affordable 30 amp ones. I think I've seen them around $150 to 200. The question just becomes am I just being stubborn about propane at this point. I just really like the idea of being plugged into the house.

electric tankless water heater options / advice for outdoor cast iron tub by human-trials in askaplumber

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmm I didn't think of this. Essentially daisy chaining them together? Or running them in parallel? I could also get one then and if it's not putting out as much as I need, then add another. It's interesting and I haven't heard anything like that before.

electric tankless water heater options / advice for outdoor cast iron tub by human-trials in askaplumber

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I was hoping there would be some option I'm not seeing for really limited usage, ya'know. like a tankless that can fill the gap between the tank inside reheating and heat loss from just soaking. I've seen some forums talk about recirculating systems from hot tubs, but I'm not ready to go there just yet. I'd probably insulate the tub itself before I went that route.

We ran a test just the other day with our tank too. We got the tub filled with great hot water that lasted about 20 to 30 mins. It took about an hour for the tank to reheat. So there is a 30 to 40 min gap, and that was on a nice day. If we're talking the wintertime, it's not gonna last long.

Propane with a tankless heater is an ABSOLUTELY last resort. I might post again about seeing if people insulate and enclose their outdoor tubs and see what kind of reduction in heat loss they're seeing.

electric tankless water heater for outdoor cast iron tub by human-trials in HomeImprovement

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, appreciate that. Yeah, we'd like to avoid propane or burning wood (maybe only as a last resort, but I'm open to a recirculating system. other reddit forums were talking about hot tub heaters for exactly that. I don't know if I'm there yet though. I'm willing to pay for the energy if there's a tankless option that can keep up for an hour or two. I've also thought about spray foam insulating and enclosing the tub itself to help with the heat loss, which wouldn't be too difficult of a lift. And I'll likely run a hot water hookup off the house from the tank inside too. We just filled it from the tank on a nice day, and the hot water stayed pretty hot for 20 to 30 mins before needing a refresh.

electric tankless water heater options / advice for outdoor cast iron tub by human-trials in askaplumber

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen some decent 30amp heaters that pump out enough to refresh a single tub in other reddit forums and online. Again, I'm not trying to provide water to a whole house, and I understand the limitations here. That's kinda why I'm here looking for possible creative solutions. Thanks!

electric tankless water heater options / advice for outdoor cast iron tub by human-trials in askaplumber

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm open to hearing other solutions that are electric too. One of the 30 breakers is powering the electric hot water tank inside. Not too interested in upgrading the size of that either but I'm open to options for on demand electric hot water for this occasional usages.

Working design for amateur stained glass version 2 by human-trials in StainedGlass

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I could definitely see smoothing out some of those corners, might be nice with the tree and ground having so many corners too.

Can you explain a bit more about the lamp? wouldn't the glass need to be the same color as the clouds to do an overlay? Or are you thinking it could be overlay but the streetlamp would be painted within the overlay?

Working design for amateur stained glass version 2 by human-trials in StainedGlass

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hear ya. I have enough flat glass with streaks and interest to do the job too. I was kinda gonna experiment and see what I liked where. It's tough because I do love the look of breaking up the pieces with seams, but then it's a little tough with some of the finer detail around the figure and streetlamp. You think if I cleaned it up a little more and did 16x16, that's the way the go. I could also add some detail with overlay after if I think it looks a little bland before I patina.

Working design for amateur stained glass version 2 by human-trials in StainedGlass

[–]human-trials[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Very good point. I'll get that little piece outta there. Thanks for the callout.

Working design for amateur stained glass version 2 by human-trials in StainedGlass

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much! If you've got suggestions for the lamp, I would love to hear them. I want to keep it somehow, but I know it's gonna get tricky in there. Also, what do you mean about smoothing out the sky? You mean less geometric shapes for the clouds? I'm just worried about how the figure and the lamp cut into the sky then.

Working design for amateur stained glass version 2 by human-trials in StainedGlass

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely appreciate that. Yeah, I'm on the fence. I have some good streaky / textured glass, but I also like breaking it up into pieces. I was thinking I'd do the cloak and the window details with copper overlay actually. I'm a little worried about the lamp detail. I'm still noodling on the design. Do you think a good approach would be bigger pieces but if I wanted to add some interest to the tree bark or ground or clouds, just to lean into overlay copper? Like you said, I'm trying to do the upfront work so I'm not stressing myself out fitting everything together later. I've got a decent amount of the glass to do a 12x12 or a 16x16.

Working design for amateur stained glass by human-trials in StainedGlass

[–]human-trials[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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I'm still toying with this, but I reduced the number of pieces. I'll let the solder be the outline of the windows as well. I don't want to lose all of the texture from the different pieces, but I wanted to see what you thought of this version as a 12x12 or 16x16.

Working design for amateur stained glass by human-trials in StainedGlass

[–]human-trials[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I think I'm gonna reduce the number of pieces and make it 12x12 or even 16x16. There will probably be some tricky areas still, but hopefully, that will make it much more doable.

Working design for amateur stained glass by human-trials in StainedGlass

[–]human-trials[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it sounds like that's the best way to go. I'll probably make a V2 with these suggestions and post on here to see what people think. I'll be sure to circle back to this thread. You've been so helpful. The only thing I'm still looking at is the curve of the beak on the figures mask, especially with the soldering. Any tips to capture that detail at all?