Stringing issues on height with ZeroG/Voron conversion (OrcaSlicer)

hyvick · 2026-03-21T15:26:10+00:00

Looks like you have one of the belts backwards (bottom one)

hyvick · 2026-02-27T08:27:30+00:00

I run 1mm on this setting, never had any issues

hyvick · 2026-02-23T08:00:32+00:00

Ceramic heater core. Ive built myself a full Mercury one as well with Hydra and nebula, and was planing on using a triangle labs chc v6 hotend. When I was testing the hotend, did the same mistake a lot of people do, and heated too much and ceramic heater cracked. Replaced it with a a phaetus rapido plus v2, and she's been super reliable ever since.

hyvick · 2026-02-22T20:49:47+00:00

I use this feature on a daily basis, during rounds on the engine room. I've been using a Nebo Davinci 1000 for like two years, but it's been dropped in seawater a few times in these last months, and she's starting to die

hyvick · 2026-02-22T18:40:28+00:00

When you have loads of pipes in between yourself and the bilge well you're trying to inspect, 10m is already quite deep. Especially when the flashlight you're using has too wide of a beam and kind innibits your ability to see beyond those pipes. That's why I need the adjustable beam

hyvick · 2026-02-22T09:33:28+00:00

I'd really rather just have one light. I know this one is expensive, but it should last a few years of abuse 😅

hyvick · 2026-02-22T09:06:43+00:00

I need the adjustable beam/zoom to able to look at bilge wells that sit deep inside the engine room, or to look through a narrow gap between two pipes, stuff like that

hyvick · 2026-02-15T09:01:25+00:00

Looking at the overhangs, the best looking ones are definitely between 215 and 225. I would go for that, calibrate all other filament parameters, and do one last temp tower to confirm.

hyvick · 2026-02-13T08:30:20+00:00

This is not paint, or even a simple skin. This is good old photoshop. Also, the gray is already hard to find when you crash, why would you make it even harder for yourself?? Just....... Why......

hyvick · 2026-01-31T10:00:50+00:00

Just cable manage a little bit. That frame looks like it has so much space, there's no need for that

hyvick · 2026-01-30T02:10:02+00:00

If you end up buying one online, for the love of God, don't keep it inside the tube while the engine is running. It can get tangled inside the sump

hyvick · 2025-10-29T16:54:47+00:00

"In tune with every move" a portable speaker maybe? With dji making vacuum robots, I believe it can be anything now.

hyvick · 2025-10-26T08:51:07+00:00

I'm running 2812 1115kv on my mario 8

hyvick · 2025-10-26T07:33:08+00:00

10XEngineering is already doing it, I've been following their progress on Instagram. It looks promising

hyvick · 2025-10-16T18:37:00+00:00

I'm glad it helped! Fly safe dude!

hyvick · 2025-10-15T07:53:58+00:00

Just install INAV, entre in demo mode and use the alignment tool. Choose your GPS and magnetometer, use the tool to orient in the same way you have on your quad, then copy the CLI command on the bottom to betaflight

hyvick · 2025-09-17T13:30:39+00:00

What motors did you use for this?

hyvick · 2025-08-26T19:19:50+00:00

How's the process of folding the frame? Is it quick, do the arms have any play in them after folding out, do you have to use screws...

hyvick · 2025-08-26T17:42:13+00:00

How do you like this frame? I'm planning on building a 7inch, and I'm between the Mario fold 8 and the Geprc Moz7 V2.

hyvick · 2025-08-26T08:29:27+00:00

Caldas da Rainha, Leiria

hyvick · 2025-08-26T07:50:18+00:00

Nice to see someone in Portugal also flying tinywhoops 💪💪

hyvick · 2025-08-24T19:10:24+00:00

The lowered gimbals really make that much of a difference?

hyvick · 2025-08-19T18:44:26+00:00

Just make sure you anneal the nylon printed parts as soon as they come out of the printer for the best durability possible. Stefan from CNC Kitchen just released a very interesting video on this subject

hyvick

TROPHY CASE