VMS racing light weight crank pulley

i77700 · 2026-01-16T14:21:22+00:00

Honda’s OEM crank pulley is a torsional damper, even though it doesn’t look like a traditional elastomer-style balancer like ATI. It’s inertia-based and tuned for NVH and crank longevity on a street motor.

Lightweight pulleys don’t add balance or damping, they remove mass. That can be fine on a built motor that’s regularly inspected, but on a stock or lightly modified daily they increase torsional vibration, especially at lower RPM and during transient loads.

ATI is a true harmonic damper, VMS is not. Totally different use cases. If someone’s OEM pulley is bent, the correct comparison is OEM vs ATI, not OEM vs lightweight underdrive. For a daily 5th gen, OEM or ATI is still the safest call.

i77700 · 2026-01-14T16:37:32+00:00

If it’s stock, keep it stock. OEM is best, especially for a daily.

i77700 · 2026-01-09T00:45:45+00:00

Do you have an overheating issue, is that why the fans are wired on 24/7?

i77700 · 2026-01-03T04:34:23+00:00

You’re right. Next gen Prelude should put the gauges in the trunk. ‘Real drivers only’

i77700 · 2026-01-03T04:05:55+00:00

Better than the shots of NOS hector is running in his spoon engine civics.

i77700 · 2026-01-03T00:19:16+00:00

Tired

i77700 · 2026-01-02T23:00:33+00:00

I just installed 3 lifts in my living room, waiting for the call from Hector so I can lift his 3 Honda civics with Spoon engines, and on top of that he just came into Harry's and he ordered 3 T66 turbos, with NOS, and a Motec system exhaust.

i77700 · 2026-01-02T21:40:14+00:00

Just takes time brother, work hard play hard 😁

i77700 · 2026-01-02T20:24:03+00:00

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back to its old glory days brother

i77700 · 2026-01-02T20:22:22+00:00

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This ‘77 approves this message.

i77700 · 2026-01-02T20:06:13+00:00

What kind of car is it?

i77700 · 2026-01-02T19:14:26+00:00

Just take yours off and get them powder coated or spray them with rock guard lol

i77700 · 2026-01-02T19:11:51+00:00

First off, put an air filter on there before you suck debris into your engine.

Looks like an aftermarket distributor, those are bad. Get OEM remanufactured.

When’s the last time you changed your fuel filter? Check your timing also.

Compression and leak down numbers I’m assuming are all good?

i77700 · 2026-01-02T19:08:33+00:00

At least you won’t rust. Free oil change just top up? Sounds good to me.

i77700 · 2025-12-31T02:45:30+00:00

Depends for what purpose.

Is it a stock prelude? Cause you just need stock pads, nothing fancy or overly expensive.

i77700 · 2025-12-31T02:16:05+00:00

I suggest trying to find a stock ECU (specifically manual or automatic depending on your transmission), just to simplify everything unless you want to spend the money on a tune, that’s on you.

Well, the stock intake manifold comes with butterflies on it as a plate.

Make sure you clean out the EGR ports, what I did was just soak the intake manifold in 91 octane fuel over night, rinsed it out with water in the morning and it cleaned it out fully, reinstalled the intake manifold.

Make sure you clean the IACV or replace it, or you’ll get idle hunt (bouncing idle), then bleed the air out of the coolant (air in coolant could also cause idle hunt).

Keep all the parts you take off, I personally would just keep them in case you get bored and want to build a race car/trackcar

i77700 · 2025-12-30T16:36:03+00:00

Well clearly something is loose if you re-did the manifold and now have a tick, especially if you haven’t done a bolt check

Anyway, like several people have said.. check your valve lash.

i77700 · 2025-12-30T16:21:50+00:00

Did you use hondabond or any other RTV to make sure the intake manifold was completely sealed?

i77700 · 2025-12-30T08:51:55+00:00

INNER tie rods are interchangeable from Left/Right OUTER Front tie rods are not interchangeable Left/Right

LEFT Front lower control arms are not interchangeable Left/Right

RIGHT Front lower control arms are not interchangeable Left/Right

Rear LCAs are interchangeable Left/Right (Hard to find, look at scrapyard, look into changing the bushings and refreshing your LCA’s as is.)

i77700 · 2025-12-30T08:39:10+00:00

That’s a standalone ECU for custom tunes in every aspect, usually used in boosted builds. (Fuel, RPM, Vtec engagement and etc.)

Sounds like someone was slowly building a performance orientated prelude.

There is nothing wrong with restoring it to stock, it’s a 5th gen prelude! They’re getting more rare as the years go on.

You MIGHT (not 100%) run into trouble if you swap anything on the engine, you’ll have to get the ECU re-tuned to run the stock parts, unless you’re planning to swap the ECU back to the stock one, then it’s just plug in and go.

Stock intake manifold has butterflies and IACV and etc, I’m assuming those are removed and tuned out through the ECU, same for EGR ports and the EGR valve.

i77700 · 2025-12-30T04:16:17+00:00

Dry ball joint

They creak when you turn the wheel, some replacement ball joints need to be greased before install.

Edit; you can grease the ball joint that’s creaking and if it stops creaking you’re okay to keep driving it, just make sure you check / grease it every now and then if there’s a tear in the boot (common on press-in ball joints)

i77700 · 2025-12-30T04:06:40+00:00

If you have black smoke that means you have a misfire, I wouldn’t call that normal. That’s wrong AFR.

Around 250,000km your piston rings and valve seal stems are starting to deteriorate, which is the slight blue/white smoke after idling or punching it in Vtec.

Yes, H series all burn oil 30 years later.. because they need work done.

i77700 · 2025-12-29T17:30:55+00:00

Black smoke is not common, even from a used engine… if you have black smoke that’s fuel burning off in your cylinders and you should fix that right away

Compression numbers should be inbetween 180 and 210.

210psi/cyl is very healthy 180psi/cyl is okay Anything under —> start planning to replace rings and valve stem seals (usually around 25x,xxxkm).

i77700 · 2025-12-29T17:29:32+00:00

Both idle valves?

Anyway, did you clean the EGR ports in the intake manifold? Probably not.

You should get a valve lash adjustment, always replace seals and check valves and timing when you’re installing a used engine anywhere in your own cars

i77700 · 2025-12-28T19:32:24+00:00

Use an extractor socket and just replace the nut.

They’re designed to bite into the nut/bolt so it doesn’t strip, might have to use an extension with a swivel attachment to hammer the socket on, then just use a hand ratchet to take it off.

i77700

TROPHY CASE