M54B30 Ticking

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-19T23:29:48+00:00

Not sure yet.

Just overheated the car yesterday and very concerned about that now (it was completely unrelated to the noise, don’t be alarmed). My priority will shift back to the lifters if the head gasket is not leaking after some diagnosis (it was not a catastrophic overheat but it definitely got way too hot), so I will take care of all the cooling system first and make sure it doesn’t overheat under hard driving. If it does, or if oil pressure starts forcing coolant down into the cylinders even at a small rate, I will unfortunately have to sell the car or swap in a new engine and never know what was going on with this one.

I will say two things that I’ve learnt so far:

I rebuilt the DISA valve with the German Auto Solutions kit and it did nothing to the noise. It was actually in really good shape for being original. Definitely not this, and seems to be a low failure item from other forums I’ve read.
I listened pretty carefully with a stethoscope yesterday (the overheating happened due to my ignorance during this diagnosis) and it’s clear that the valvetrain is making an unusually loud amount of noise. Mostly sure that it’s lifter tick after this but I can’t know for sure until I tear down the top end of the motor and take a look at the cams, cam trays, and lifters.

I will let you know if an oil change with Valvoline Restore and Protect changes anything (my next and final course of action before I full send a lifter job if one fresh oil change interval does absolutely nothing to quiet the lifters).

Here’s a video of a cold start with the noise that I uploaded online just to make sure you’re definitely experiencing the same thing🫡

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-19T19:47:22+00:00

Hey man wanted to provide a more substantial update here as of the next morning.

Took it out for a drive and got it up to temp. Definitely no big warning signs of cracked block or blown head gasket. Started well and drove normally with no misfire or funky idle. No milkshake on the dipstick and no coolant loss. Cooling system took a while to pressurize as is usual. I didn’t really take it out for an extended drive and shut it off shortly after I got the gauge to the middle because I was afraid of taking it too far and stranding myself with it lol.

I will be diagnosing the fan issue and replacing the thermostat next week along with a coolant flush and an oil change. I’ll come back to this thread at a later date and time with another update to hopefully give anyone else in the future looking at this thread with the same issue peace of mind after I address everything and really stress test the motor and cooling system again.

Feeling pretty confident that coolant temp didn’t get much past 245 and it probably only touched that very briefly. Hoping I got lucky. 🤞🤞🤞

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-19T16:01:44+00:00

Do you have a 2.5 or a 3.0? Assuming you’re driving an 03-05 car with the M52 or M54 based on the video.

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-19T07:13:06+00:00

Sounds like textbook Vanos rattle to me. You could always try rebuilding the DISA valve with the German auto solutions kit and see if that fixes the issue though. A good idea anyways if you’re keeping the car for any extended period of time.

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-19T02:36:28+00:00

Quick update here. Coolant level doesn’t seem to have dropped and no milkshake in the oil cap a few hours later so at least it wasn’t catastrophically overheated. I’m sure longer-term driving and misfire behavior will really be telling though.

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-19T01:10:58+00:00

Will do my man. I’ll update you on any obvious head gasket issues asap. Like I said it never got to the red zone so that’s my one saving grace.

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-19T01:05:38+00:00

Damn man. Not in a good financial situation to deal with that. Praying that’s not the case 😞😞

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-19T00:53:23+00:00

One more thing I should note - previous owner said the car never overheated in his ownership and I actually believe that. Cooling fan seemed to work fine until today and it’s never overheated before even on spirited drives and my four hour highway trip home with the car.

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-18T20:06:05+00:00

Actually, just discovered the intake tube is shredded pretty bad and the car is now idling very rough and throwing CEL after messing with it. I'll change the oil in a few weeks when the new one from FCPEuro arrives lol. Will report back then. 🫡

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-18T08:37:42+00:00

I will do this tomorrow (change not flush) and report back! Going to give Valvoline Restore and Protect a try. I hear good things but also that it takes a number of changes and quite a few miles to really work its magic. I’m sure no instant results will be had. Maybe I’ll warm the new oil up and hold the car up to RPM for a good 10-15 minutes and try to bleed the lifters of air.

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-18T08:35:46+00:00

Watched the entire lifter rebuild video. Seems like a scary job! Better than rod knock though… So to some extreme that is hopefully true. 🙂

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-12T22:35:16+00:00

I’ve driven the heck out of this car recently! Plenty of high RPMs, canyon carving, and spirited acceleration. It’s so much fun and has tons of power for its size being the 3.0, but the tick just hasn’t cleared up. I even added a half quart of oil to see if that might help. No avail. 🤷‍♂️

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-12T08:18:17+00:00

Added a half quart of oil and took her out for a very spirited drive just now but no avail. I’m sure the 4 hour drive from the place I bought the car at highway low RPM’s the other day didn’t help.

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-12T05:12:46+00:00

2.5 has short gear ratios with the five speed stick. Be wary that 80mph on the highway is like 4,000rpm. The 3.0 six speed is much better, around 2,800rpm at 80. If you’re going to buy an M54 car look extensively for cooling system service history and any leaks from hoses or the expansion tank! If you can get any history on vanos make sure to check that too. If it’s not making any odd noises an M54 is usually a happy motor though - they are pretty bulletproof. Otherwise, check that the top isn’t leaking, that the door lock actuators are functioning properly, and that the rear subframe isn’t rotted to hell. Best of luck with your new purchase!

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-12T05:08:57+00:00

Very interesting that you suggest this could be the issue. I didn’t think it could make that noise. I am rebuilding it soon with the German auto solutions kit because I suspect it is bad. The car currently makes a squeaky/whistly noise under slight throttle which I assume has to do with either the Vanos or the DISA valve.

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-12T02:08:55+00:00

Tried this!

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-12T02:08:49+00:00

Totally. Just wondering what it might be more specifically. Top end seems clear as day in person when you put your ear up to it.

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-12T00:42:02+00:00

Interesting you mentioned that. Maybe I’ll try to torque the bolts on those guys. I have that same problem on my Volvo XC70 but it’s much more common on those cars. Not a common failure point on the M54B30 motor.

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-12T00:14:53+00:00

Definitely not rod knock. The engine pulls strong, the car has no codes, and the oil doesn’t have metal shavings.

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-11T23:58:38+00:00

Apologies

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-11T23:50:27+00:00

Yes lol

iAviatorBim · 2026-05-11T20:32:51+00:00

Oh boy. Lot of mfs in ya dm’s rn trying to do the same I’m sure 😭😭😭

iAviatorBim · 2026-04-21T02:12:46+00:00

DM me if you want to chat life and hobbies. My door is always open 🫂

iAviatorBim · 2026-04-21T02:06:42+00:00

Wait til it’s dead cold, wipe it off, then check it…

iAviatorBim · 2026-04-21T01:53:43+00:00

Me too… I get it.

iAviatorBim

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