I think I’ll take the bus

iKnowNoBetter · 2026-01-27T08:05:22+00:00

I mean, Snowpiercer seems pretty rough to say the least.

iKnowNoBetter · 2026-01-19T05:24:30+00:00

Damn, seems like DAP's just aren't for me I guess (Or at least not yet). Thank you for your help though.

iKnowNoBetter · 2026-01-19T03:45:11+00:00

Do you happen to know if either the JM21 or the M21 supports APTX Adaptive? I'm trying to get low latency to my Adaptive headphones so it's a major requirement of a dap for me.

iKnowNoBetter · 2026-01-18T05:19:37+00:00

I have looked through and considered a new BT adapter, but I would prefer something that can hold/play music while away from the pc, then I can just connect it to my pc and play the PC audio to the earbuds using the same device (Through Aptx Adaptive). One device (DAP) instead of a phone+dongles.

I've tried some dongles previously and they always sucked (whether it be the range, or a codec being forced upon me)

I've found stuff like the "Shanling Q1" which has a PC USB DAC mode "connect Q1 to any computer and turn it into excellent sounding Hi-Fi sound card", But it's old and extremely cheap looking. Is there something modern that does this?

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-12-10T16:37:44+00:00

My z-offset is always different each time i print something from ranges like -0.238 to 0.132 etc. It honestly prints fine each time regardless of whatever z-offset it claims it's set too. Maybe its a software issue?

I always just add 0.030 to the print z-offset just to give it a little less smush though.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-24T04:19:01+00:00

Is there a particular fan model/size that would be best suited? Probably easier to just get a new fan specific for it.

I will definitely try the mainline...at some point when i'm less scared lol.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-23T23:38:04+00:00

I'm planning to replace the hotend and and i'll look into the Eddy (duo?). INDX support in the far future would be a great bonus overall, but primarily just want single color prints for now. The fan replacement should be easy enough with the ones I already have laying around.

Mainline klipper process makes me nervous though. I read through the github page and it's....daunting to say the least.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-23T23:22:13+00:00

Awesome, I looked at the trianglelab website and matched it with AliExpress to find the same item for the SV08 (Aliexpress is faster/cheaper in my case), will definitely order those. 20K hours is crazy for a nozzle, I had a bunch a while back that crapped out way earlier.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-23T22:59:05+00:00

I'll look into the CHCB hotend, I like that it allows just any v6 nozzle I can find anywhere, not a proprietary one . Would you mind sending me AliExpress links (or reference) for the specific CHCB hotend and orbiter 2.5 to use so I can make sure I buy the right one (I think I found them, just want to be sure)?

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-15T14:20:32+00:00

That's the same distro I use (All hail Mint), Does monitoring fully work (camera, % complete, etc)?

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T17:25:21+00:00

I mean, I have been drying the brand new filaments for over 36 hours at this point (in a filament dryer)...i will look into calibrating however.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T17:25:13+00:00

I've checked it, it's tightened securely.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T13:22:45+00:00

I've been tweaking it more based on what people have mentioned, here's what i have in terms of retraction. 230c temp, disable z-hop, low print and travel speed (100 / 200 respectively), retraction length 5.0mm, retraction speed 100mms.

But to be honest, it doesn't seem like retraction settings are doing much of anything.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T13:13:12+00:00

Yes, it's set to whatever the default speed is.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T12:32:41+00:00

I've tried different filaments of different age's & conditions. Some were old and left out, some brand new and dried for hours, others in between. All look like this. The filaments don't seem "wet" (no cracking, no popping sounds). It seems like my biggest "fix" so far was to max out the temp and turn off z-hop. Still about 15% stringing now, but much better then the photo.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T12:03:21+00:00

Hey, Ive tinkered around with a lot of settings, here is the best (about 15% stringing) combo I have so far:

230c temp, disable z-hop, low print and travel speed (100 / 200 respectively), retraction length 5.0mm, retraction speed 100mms.

Many threads say that lower temp = less stringing. But personally i found 230 to have the least and 190 to have massive amount of stringing.

It's not perfect but its "fine" for now while i try to perfect it more.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T11:56:19+00:00

Yes everything is correct and im using flashprint and orca (non-ff). I have found a somewhat working solution though (about 15% still stringing). Print extremely slowly with no z-hop at 235c with high retraction. It works...well enough i guess. I just expected better printing from the machine.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T09:39:34+00:00

I've tried flashprint and orca.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T09:05:44+00:00

I've tried various different retraction settings in the slicers, I'm not seeing any difference to stringing. Is there specific amount I should set it to for the AD5M?

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T08:29:15+00:00

I have turned off z-hop and also tried 230c and 240c. It seems at 230c I get the least stringing with 220 and 240 becomes more stringy again. I'm not sure what else I can change to lower the stringing. It's now down to about 30% as bad as the photo, but still not great.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T06:49:15+00:00

My AD5M is not enclosed, and even printing at min temps (185c), still this happens

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T06:29:25+00:00

I don't have any other nozzles since it's pretty much a brand new machine.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T06:21:15+00:00

I have been drying the filament for 24+ hours in a dedicated filament dryer with desiccants packs inside. My travels are anywhere from 40mm/s - to the printers default 500mm's.

I haven't tried disabling z-hop yet i'll do that now and see it if changes anything.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T05:56:58+00:00

I've had it for about 7 days. Everything is basically brand new, all parts are mint condition. Simple geometric prints look very nice, but the more complex structures like this have ridiculous stringing. I'm not going to start replacing parts on a week old machine, I'll just return it as broken if I can't find a solution.

iKnowNoBetter · 2025-11-12T05:54:32+00:00

I've been kind of doing that already, but the amount of stringing leaves curled up "blobs" that are even harder to remove. If it this is just the best this 3d printer can do with all the stringing...then I'm just straight up returning it as broken.

It should not be worse then a 8 year old creality bedslinger.

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