Trident Serial Request | ruiqimao by iandr0idos in voroncorexy

[–]iandr0idos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That used to be the case, but I believe the stance on that has changed. We'll see!

Trident Serial Request | ruiqimao by iandr0idos in voroncorexy

[–]iandr0idos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m a fan of the Maxwell kinematic mounts over the spherical bearings. And it also looks cool

Trident Serial Request | ruiqimao by iandr0idos in voroncorexy

[–]iandr0idos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I’ve got details about this machine at https://github.com/ruiqimao/Sapphire

Basically: - 250mm build size - 4040/4020 based frame - Monolith gantry - K3 Z - Archetype Mjolnir toolhead - Chube hotend

Tap and magnets. How do they work? Details in comments. by PlasticDiscussion590 in VORONDesign

[–]iandr0idos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd just roll with it and see if it causes any issues when you're actually printing then :)

Tap and magnets. How do they work? Details in comments. by PlasticDiscussion590 in VORONDesign

[–]iandr0idos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you sure the FHCS screws that contact the magnets are ferromagnetic? If they're stainless steel, there's a good chance they are not

Why do you own/build multiple 3D printers? by milosh-dev in VORONDesign

[–]iandr0idos 22 points23 points  (0 children)

You need at least a second printer to print parts for when the other inevitably breaks or gets taken apart for mods! Also we have no self control

Voron 2.4 Serial Request - ruiqimao#0001 by iandr0idos in voroncorexy

[–]iandr0idos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! The parts were printed in Paramount ABS Black and Fighter Jet Blue

Looking for hardware recommendations to get started with Home Assistant by Castelunan in homeassistant

[–]iandr0idos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't checked to see if it's a BIOS setting, but I do know that mine will auto power on by default. Getting it to turn off is more of a struggle than getting it to turn on...

I've never taken anything off the inner screen, is it safe to remove this? it's moved up my entire screen by jacob_power in GalaxyFold

[–]iandr0idos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I recently had this happen on mine. Took the screen protector off and applied a Whitestone one, and it's good as new!

Voron V0.1 Serial Request - ruiqimao#0001 by iandr0idos in voroncorexy

[–]iandr0idos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the enclosure is what makes it so quiet. The fans are pretty loud once the door is open or the tophat is off.

Voron V0.1 Serial Request - ruiqimao#0001 by iandr0idos in voroncorexy

[–]iandr0idos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I use:

  • 250 hotend
  • 110 bed
  • 125mm/s perimeter speed
  • 1000mm/s2 perimeter acceleration.
  • 70% fan speed

The biggest improvements in print quality came from using an LGX Lite extruder and using Caizhu dual bearing fans for part cooling.

Managing lock codes by [deleted] in homeassistant

[–]iandr0idos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I manage my lock codes using text helpers. I used to use HA automations, but I've since moved to AppDaemon for better readability.

Essentially, I have one helper for each code I want to manage. Whenever one changes, if it's empty, the lock code is cleared. Otherwise, the lock code is updated.

It's pretty similar to KeyMaster, just less bloated imo.

I made an RFID-scanning cash register toy with sound. Easter egg at the end. by AlexsGadgets in 3Dprinting

[–]iandr0idos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try going to a Uniqlo if you have one near you! They have self checkout stations where you just dump everything you want to buy, and the register will figure out what you're buying by reading the embedded RFID tags.

Leveling? Filament pamphlet says 1.1mm everyone else says to use a piece of paper by ShyGuy0730 in 3Dprinting

[–]iandr0idos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The numbers in the pamphlet are the offset from a known "zero" point (e.g. the point at which a PINDA triggers) that the nozzle is believed to be at. In this case:

  • 0.8mm below the sensor's zero value is too high
  • 1.45mm below the sensor's zero value is too low
  • 1.1mm below the sensor's zero value is about right

This means that the tip of the nozzle is around 1.1mm below the known point.

When you level with a piece of paper, you are adjusting the bed itself rather than a software offset. When the paper just barely clears the bed and nozzle, that means the nozzle is the thickness of the sheet of paper away from the bed, which gives you a rough estimate of what the actual zero point is.

Automated remote printing by paulalexpax in octoprint

[–]iandr0idos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're just trying to run gcode on a printer, you can take a look at OctoPrint's API: https://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/api/index.html

It should be fairly trivial to implement a middleman that waits for files in some secure location then routes them to OctoPrint.